Bent frame

[dyeager535]

So how bent is bad?

Got a frame I'm working on that has obviously been hammered hard (too late, already started cleaning it up and welding on it) but just now noticed that it's bent up front.

Where the frame arches up for axle clearance, one side is 1/2" higher than the other. The "bend" happens somewhere on the flat portion of that arch, and continues all the way to very front of the frame. Everywhere behind that the frame rails are on the same plane.

I loosely installed the front springs, and obviously that didn't affect how much the frame was off. Checking level from spring pin to spring pin, they too are off 1/2". The springs mount up with no binding.

I checked on another truck and of course the frame is the same height on both sides.

There is no obvious damage to the frame that is a telltale. One side of the engine crossmember has a larger gap between the rivets than the other side, but they don't appear to have been moving around.

Anyone think it's something to be concerned with? I foresee MAYBE trying to get the motor to bolt up to be a bit more challenging. I am of the opinion that the body mounts have enough clearance in them to make up the difference pretty easily at least.

 

[ryoken]

you could probably have it straightened for under $500 at a reputable collision shop.. couple pulls/anchor's on an EZ Liner.. easy peazy...

but yeah, that could be some creative shimming out at the body mounts.. gonna be fightin a lean... and yeah, depending on what kinda motor mounts ya run, they could be challenging too.. leave things loose and plenty of drifts and lineup tools...

 

[rampage]

It's like the foundation of a house. Get the foundation level/straight/solid and you won't be fighting the rest of the building blocks after that.
You sure it hasn't been in an accident? Do any of the anchor points on the frame show any wear from where a frame repair shop would have hooked to (the oblong holes along the frame rails)?

 

[dyeager535]

I don't think it's been in an accident, but the PO(s) were obviously not real bright. The transmission crossmember bolts have been pulled through the frame, both rear shock mounts were destroyed, and a couple of the holes at the front of the frame are a bit oblong from being pulled on.

Based on the damage (I had a friend buy the bare frame for me) I'd suspect the truck was abused heavily offroad.

Not really the answers I was looking for unfortunately, you are all such debbie-downers! J/K. Just wondered if there was any consensus. I can probably get another frame for $100 plus the gas and time, but I suppose I need to check the straightness with a level, not eyes. I was certainly hoping to hear "1/2 inch is nothing! Run it!".

But I want to drop a very nice 1987 body on this thing, and I want the body panel gaps to be just like they were from the factory...you know, nice closing doors that don't rub on the fenders, a hood that pops when you pull the lever and closes with minimal effort. The finer things in life.

 

[rampage]

I'm sure half an inch is within spec from the factory for an 80s frame. But you know it's off and from the sound of it it'd be eating at you if everything didn't line up correctly. Easier to fix it now than when it's all assembled.

 

[imiceman44]

I don't think it's been in an accident, but the PO(s) were obviously not real bright. The transmission crossmember bolts have been pulled through the frame, both rear shock mounts were destroyed, and a couple of the holes at the front of the frame are a bit oblong from being pulled on.

Based on the damage (I had a friend buy the bare frame for me) I'd suspect the truck was abused heavily offroad.

Not really the answers I was looking for unfortunately, you are all such debbie-downers! J/K. Just wondered if there was any consensus. I can probably get another frame for $100 plus the gas and time, but I suppose I need to check the straightness with a level, not eyes. I was certainly hoping to hear "1/2 inch is nothing! Run it!".

But I want to drop a very nice 1987 body on this thing, and I want the body panel gaps to be just like they were from the factory...you know, nice closing doors that don't rub on the fenders, a hood that pops when you pull the lever and closes with minimal effort. The finer things in life.

How are you measuring?
Do you have the frame on the floor and you made sure it's level or at least sitting sqaure on the ground and measuring from multiple places and all the measurements are equal until you get the front section?
What is your referance point?
1/2" is by no means a big deal, you can easily get everything looking perfect with it like this, but if it were me, I have ways to fix that and get it at least no more than 1/4"
You will need some heavy duty anchors in the ground though to do this.

 

[dyeager535]

Yep, you got it. If I can get another frame for $100 (found one locally today in a 'yard) without too much work, I'll go that route. If it's going to be a bunch of work, I'll just make do with what I have, and *hope* the 1/2" doesn't throw stuff off too much. But with poly body and motor mounts, there will probably be some serious effort in getting things lined up.

 

[dyeager535]

How are you measuring?
Do you have the frame on the floor and you made sure it's level or at least sitting square on the ground and measuring from multiple places and all the measurements are equal until you get the front section?
What is your reference point?

I've got the frame up on sawhorses in my garage. I've got a ~4' level. Sawhorses are level. Sawhorses under a "flat" section of the frame. I used a few of the alignment cutouts in the frame to ensure it is square on and to the sawhorse.

From there, measured across multiple points on the frame, such as the crossmember bolt holes, and some of the bracket rivets/holes that are opposite each other...the two pairs of spring bumpers, the sway bar mounts/crossmember, the front spring hangers, etc. Once the springs were installed, as I mentioned, I measured across the springs once installed. The difference in being "off" is the same at the springs or the frame itself.

The frame is upside down. I'm measuring solely the portion of the frame channel that is facing "up" from the sawhorse. But the portion of the C resting on the sawhorse is relatively flat on either side, not like one leg of the C is just hammered out of shape.

Everything from the rear forward is level. Just once the frame arches up for the axle it starts being off.

1/2" is by no means a big deal, you can easily get everything looking perfect with it like this, but if it were me, I have ways to fix that and get it at least no more than 1/4"
You will need some heavy duty anchors in the ground though to do this.

I had thought about doing this. I cut a spare engine crossmember to box the stock piece, and noticed one side is WAY off. Since I plan on using the other frame to box this one, I'm thinking I will cut that section off the other frame, and see how far off the two sides are compared to the donor. If I can't use it to box, it's off far enough to need some straightening, or save myself some time and effort, and grab another frame. Of course that means cutting a bunch more rivets, but I'm getting good at that.