WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
Hey guys. I have been itching to mod my 88 jimmy since I got it,But am still unsure where to exactly start. My plans are to keep the jimmy as a DD and hit some trails. Nothing extreme. Any opinions would be great.
CK5
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Best first mod opinions
- Thread starter WOTBandit88
- Start date
How much do you intend to wheel it? weekend warrior or dedicated offroad rig. Not alot of sense in going over 35s if your going to drive it every day.
If you are going to hit alot of mud bogs you probably dont need a doubler.
Id say first mods would be make it reliable, tires, and fender trim
If you are going to hit alot of mud bogs you probably dont need a doubler.
Id say first mods would be make it reliable, tires, and fender trim
redneckdude
1/2 ton status
steering box reinforcement and weld in plate...i saw 2 too many broken steering boxes/frames this weekend.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
weekend warrior definately. It just looks so damn sad with the 31's, But I was under the impression a bigger tire wouldnt do much for me without some kind of lift. The truck runs friggin great. Tranny leaks a bit after a long drive and a park on my inclined driveway. PO overfilled the tranny bigtime and was told it might have pushed out the front seal But other then that doesnt slip or anything. I have a very reliable truck right now. Just want to make it more offroad capable. .
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Do you have an open differential in the back?
If you just want to make it better off road and a good DD. Put a locker in the back.
A lockrite or Powertrax no slip will improve your offroad capibilities a lot. Both are fairly easy to install. The powertrax no slip is an excelent streetable locker. The lockrite is cheaper but it makes more pops, bangs and clicks. Both work well as long as you dont go bigger than 35" tires on 10 bolts.
If you want a locker. First make sure you have an open Diff. If you have the factory Gov- Lock you cant install a lunchbox locker.
If you aren't going to go with big tires, 35" or larger you really dont need to do the steering box reinforcement.
If you just want to make it better off road and a good DD. Put a locker in the back.
A lockrite or Powertrax no slip will improve your offroad capibilities a lot. Both are fairly easy to install. The powertrax no slip is an excelent streetable locker. The lockrite is cheaper but it makes more pops, bangs and clicks. Both work well as long as you dont go bigger than 35" tires on 10 bolts.
If you want a locker. First make sure you have an open Diff. If you have the factory Gov- Lock you cant install a lunchbox locker.
If you aren't going to go with big tires, 35" or larger you really dont need to do the steering box reinforcement.
A locker in the rear will make a bigger difference than anything else. Then tires and suspension.
I would disagree, I've seen many stock K-series trucks with cracked frames at the steering box.
I would disagree, I've seen many stock K-series trucks with cracked frames at the steering box.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
Truck came with a locked rear. Not sure what it is but its locked for sure. Now im afraid to look at my damn steering box LOL
Is it a stock locker or one someone installed?
Heck with all that! Start with the free mods: cut , cut and then cut some more!
Then you can fit some big meats without even buying a lift kit.
Then you can fit some big meats without even buying a lift kit.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
Well in the stack of receipts I got from the PO it says it has a new posi installed. I know its def. locked. The price listed next to the locker was 100...seems kinda cheap.
A locker and posi are very different, and there is no posi or locker on the planet that costs $100 new.
You probably have a gov-lok. One easy way to see what kind of diff is in the truck is to jack up the rear and and (while the truck is in park) spin one of the rear tires and see what the other tire does. If you can't spin the tire you have a real locker or a posi. If the other tire spins the opposite direction you have an open diff, a gov-lok or a very worn out posi.
The only real way to know what you have is to pull the cover.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
OK upon further inspection of the reciept the posi costed 280. and I guess 100 to put in? Next to the part on the reciept is what im assuming is a part number of 542018
I looked up the number and I think its an auburn limited slip? Can you tell me more info about it. Advantages vs disadvantages...Trying to suck up any knowledge I can here.
im tryin to decipher this damn reciept. Dont slay me if it makes no sense but on the receipt it has
Seal set? $120
Ring pinion 3.07 $140
posi unit $ 280
I looked up the number and I think its an auburn limited slip? Can you tell me more info about it. Advantages vs disadvantages...Trying to suck up any knowledge I can here.
im tryin to decipher this damn reciept. Dont slay me if it makes no sense but on the receipt it has
Seal set? $120
Ring pinion 3.07 $140
posi unit $ 280
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It looks like your rear diff has been totally rebuilt before.
$120 is probably for new bearing and seals in the diff.
$140 for a new ring and pinion set, 3.07 ratio.
$280 for a new Auburn limited slip unit.
A limited slip does just what its name implies, it helps the tires that slipping to grip a little more. In mud, dirt and snow they work fairly well. In any high traction situation (i.e rocks, etc.) a limited slip diff and an open diff are pretty much the same. Limited slips aren't lockers and they simply aren't capable of transmitting much torque between the two axle shafts.
Here is a link describing Auburn posi's. They are not rebuildable if you plan on using one that long.
$120 is probably for new bearing and seals in the diff.
$140 for a new ring and pinion set, 3.07 ratio.
$280 for a new Auburn limited slip unit.
A limited slip does just what its name implies, it helps the tires that slipping to grip a little more. In mud, dirt and snow they work fairly well. In any high traction situation (i.e rocks, etc.) a limited slip diff and an open diff are pretty much the same. Limited slips aren't lockers and they simply aren't capable of transmitting much torque between the two axle shafts.
Here is a link describing Auburn posi's. They are not rebuildable if you plan on using one that long.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
everyone whos drivin mine swore up and down it was fully locked in the rear. I was pulling up in my driveway in reverse and kinda romped on it. Both tires spun. does a limited slip work that fast? Or is it goin bad or somethin. Guess my first mod will be a good locker
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That's exactly how you would expect a limited slip to work. Honestly, spinning tires in a driveway might make both tires spin even if it had an open diff, that's not a test of if you have a locker or not.
The real test is when one tire has traction and the other doesn't. A locker or spool will keep both tires spinning the same speed no matter what (at least when you're giving it throttle). With a limited slip you will notice a differential in wheel speed (or one wheel not turning at all).
Limited slip = good street manners (like stock), ok in the mud and snow, worthless in the rocks
Mechanical locker (detroit, lockright, etc.) = ok street manners, traction as good as it gets, relatively cheap
Selectable locker = good street manners when you want them, fully locked when you want it. Lots more $$ and added complexity.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
thanks for all the help bud. I am going to consider investing in a mechanical locker.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
I would pull the dif cover and see exactly what you have before you buy a locker.
$280 is mighty cheap for a new posi. 10 bolt auburn posi are around $400.
But $280 is about the exact price of a new lockrite.
The lockrite is a mechanical locker.
You could try jacking up the back and block or have someone hold one tire. Rotate the other tire backwards. If you hear a bunch of clicking you have a lockrite.
But what ever you have, with only 307 gears you are limited on tire size. 32" mabe 33" max if you have a 700R4 trans.
$280 is mighty cheap for a new posi. 10 bolt auburn posi are around $400.
But $280 is about the exact price of a new lockrite.
The lockrite is a mechanical locker.
You could try jacking up the back and block or have someone hold one tire. Rotate the other tire backwards. If you hear a bunch of clicking you have a lockrite.
But what ever you have, with only 307 gears you are limited on tire size. 32" mabe 33" max if you have a 700R4 trans.
i recomend swapping to a manual trans. You don't want a slush box anyway, it will only give you headaches and will soak up a lot of your engine's power.
But realistically, i recomend doing the ORD steering box brace, XJ steering shaft, ORD engine crossmember, a good rear locker, exhaust, performance intake manifold, headers, TBI spacer, and a chip or tuner.
I recomend a 2-3" lift with all new springs bushings and hardware, HD front shackles, and a good set of shocks. With that a nice tasteful set of wheels and 33" tires, and I think you'd have an awsome truck that could go just about anywhere and then drive you home.
But realistically, i recomend doing the ORD steering box brace, XJ steering shaft, ORD engine crossmember, a good rear locker, exhaust, performance intake manifold, headers, TBI spacer, and a chip or tuner.
I recomend a 2-3" lift with all new springs bushings and hardware, HD front shackles, and a good set of shocks. With that a nice tasteful set of wheels and 33" tires, and I think you'd have an awsome truck that could go just about anywhere and then drive you home.
WOTBandit88
1/2 ton status
I will jack up the rear asap and do that test. I have been thinking hard on a manual tranny. I just have a bad feeling about 700r's and it just seems like a weak link. Also I'm assuming it will be a major pain in the ass to set up a manual in this thing correct? Chevy305 thanks for the response dude. Really gives me an idea what to do.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Nothing wrong with the later model 700r4s. I certanly would not bother swapping one for a NV3500 manual trans. IMO a NV3500 is weaker than your 700r4.
NV 4500 would be stronger but will cost some $$$$.
SM 465 is doable but you will loose OD and take a hit in MPG,
700r4 will last a long time with keeping the fluid clean and changed yearly, and a good aftermarket cooler.
My 700 is 20 years old and still going strong. On a DD 89 K5, locked front rear, with 33s that is wheeled hard and tows a lot. PS I have no steering box brace either, no frame cracks.
NV 4500 would be stronger but will cost some $$$$.
SM 465 is doable but you will loose OD and take a hit in MPG,
700r4 will last a long time with keeping the fluid clean and changed yearly, and a good aftermarket cooler.
My 700 is 20 years old and still going strong. On a DD 89 K5, locked front rear, with 33s that is wheeled hard and tows a lot. PS I have no steering box brace either, no frame cracks.
