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Best Gasket to use on Diffs?/Recommended Temp to Run?

S

Sinful_Nature

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I have two quick general questions-

What's the best gasket to go with diff's? I have a 10-bolt with a diff pan that has been "reformed" a couple of times and the normal "paper" ones from Auto Zone aren't cutting it. Thinking either Cork or RVT.

Second Question-

I have a fairly new 350 (20K)GM crate Motor for my 82 K10, running a 4-Core Griffin Rad, Edelbrock Aluminmun Water Pump, Preformer intake, Holly QJet,Dynamax Headers, Flex Fan... I believe those are the only things that would make a difference. I honestly don't recall what I installed when I did the motor swap, I image the recommended stock thermostat. She runs about 205 on cool days, however in hotter weather I'm see her sitting around 210/215... it never seems to go much beyond that, keeping pretty level, bouncing to 220 during long idles on hot days. Good, bad? Should I be running cooler/warmer?

Thanks!

~ Russ
 
with the diff i usually just use super blue. it works great.

for the temp mine did that after my engine swap and then i noticed that it wasn't really running hot...the guage was wrong. switching from a 86 305 to a gm crate forced me to buy a different sending unit and when my guage says that im at 205 im really at 185.
 
<font color="green"> On the diffs I use whatever RTV I have within reach, lately it's been Super Black, but I've used the orange stuff too. Never have used an actual gasket yet on one. For the temp, I recommend checking the stat. It would be easier to figure out where the problem might be if it was known what temp the stat is that's in there now. You might as well just spend the 3 bucks and get a new one and replce it while your there. I run a 180 in my GM crate motor and it pretty much stays right there. I run a 4 core BB radiator, your Griffin should cool even better than that, so i don't know why you're having problems. Stupid question, but are you sure the stat is right side up? /forums/images/icons/grin.gif </font color>
 
Yeah I did a gauge swap when I did the swap also, running AutoMeters, also installed all new sending units. To be honest I remember this thing running this hot from the day I dropped it in, thought it was nromal.. until I started seeing what the guys here are running. I do have to repair a "small" gapping /forums/images/icons/smile.gif hole in the shourd. But I think the stat needs a quick swap while I'm at it.

180 it is...

Thanks!

~ Russ
 
running a 195 year round. Had a 160 but5 winter time made it run 120 all day long. 195 cured the problem and it may run 200 on 95 degree heat days. Then again I have no A/C or tranny cooler stuff in front of my 3 core rad....I have no A/C at all and a standard tranny! Living the better of one world /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
If your engine is running hot, unless the t-stat is defective, running a lower one cannot cure the problem. Plain and simple.
 
Yes. It's a "closed" cooling system. If the system can't maintain 195 with a 195 t-stat, it won't maintain 180 with a 180 either. The t-stat is (basically) an open/close deal.

As soon as the coolant temp hits the t-stats "limit" (180, 195, etc) it should be full open, if working properly. So no matter what thermostat you put in there (besides a 205 or 210 lol) as soon as the coolant temp passes that setting, the t-stat is effectively out of the equation. If it can't maintain 195, obviously something in the cooling system is preventing effective cooling.

Again, thats if the t-stat isn't defective, but I had a collapsed upper hose when mine failed, and it went way past 205.
 
You've got all this cool (note pun /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif) stuff for a cooling system, and then....flex fan. I got scared off by them when I saw a truck that had one of the fan blades sticking out the hood. Try a stock GM clutch fan or an electric setup. I've got all stock stuff with a 180 t-stat and 3 core and she stayed cool on one really hot day while I was pulling a race care and trailer for a fella.
 
OKay... I swapped the T-stat last night last, I had a 195 in it, now there is a 180. The other thing I noticed was the following- A while back I installed aftermarket gauges in the stock gauge location, my Water Temp is in the righthand lower hole, and I'm I a pretty tall guy, so I never really saw the top of the guage, I assumed that it was running 205/210, but after looking at it closer last night realized that I was truely running 195/200. I really need to install angle rings.

Although it was a cool last night here in new England, I ran it to a club meeting and it never left 180. Going wheeling this weekend, so will see how it does then.

As for the Flex Fan- Doesn't the flex fan pull more air at idle, rather than a stock GM Clutch Fan? Where we are fighting for Land access in this area(like every where else), we stay away from Deep Water(or Water in-general) Crossings and are mainly a rock crawling group.

Thanks for all the great feedback!

~ Russ
 
Clutch or flex fan should pull as much air at idle, given the same size/blade pitch, etc. Both are governed by engine RPM at idle, only difference being the stock fan clutch will actually "shut off" (slip) and not "rob" power when not needed, as in cruising, or vehicle warm up.

Flex fans by design will hurt flow through an engine compartment at cruise as well. Some people have said it hasn't hurt, but if the blades are designed to flatten at high RPM, all they are doing is blocking airflow through the radiator. Fine for a 1/4 mile blast, (less drag on the fan) bad for cruising. Also bad for your hood or you god forbid you are leaning over it when one of the blades comes off. (if steel)
 
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