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Best Jumper Cables?

sokoloka

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About time to replace the set I snagged at a pick n' pull years ago.

Anyone have any recommendations on a good set of LONG and heavy duty jumper cables to put in the recovery bag? Thicker gauge the better.
 
"Best" ones are home made using thick arc welding cable,like #00 with store bought GOOD clamps,that will actually stay on both side post and top post batteries..

If you shop at a scrapyard I bet you'll find some good used cable there for much less than new also...

I have several department store variety jumper cables I got from junk cars trunks,when those fail to get something to start I try the ones made from welding cables and the engine usually whips over like it has no compression,when the flimsy ones just got hot ,and it wouldn't spin over at all...beware of store bought cables that look thick,but have only 10 gauge or less wire with super thick insulation!..
 
Those do look pretty badass.

Do you mainly use them on your rig, or are you mostly jumping others?

I've always wanted this style, but they are expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/20-Jumper-Cab...qid=1407178217&sr=1-43&keywords=jumper+cables

These seem to be especially expensive though. The ones you posted look decent.

Mostly jumping others, haven't had to jump myself yet fingers crossed.
The cables you linked look slick! A bit pricey but you have to pay to play sometimes.

Might give the ones I linked to a whirl. Will let you guys know how it goes.
 
fyi not good idea to use cables these days on newer stuff . I have seen to many screw ups.

get a good jumper pack . they hold charge real good these days and if you crank one down just clamp it to a running vehicle for around 10 min and your good to go .

jnc 660 jump / carry big blue case is good .

and also boost pack .
 
fyi not good idea to use cables these days on newer stuff . I have seen to many screw ups.

get a good jumper pack . they hold charge real good these days and if you crank one down just clamp it to a running vehicle for around 10 min and your good to go .

jnc 660 jump / carry big blue case is good .

and also boost pack .

He owns stock in the jumper box biz.. :tongue1:
 
Google rizk national. Just bought a battery charger from them. They make good stuff.
 
fyi not good idea to use cables these days on newer stuff . I have seen to many screw ups.

get a good jumper pack . they hold charge real good these days and if you crank one down just clamp it to a running vehicle for around 10 min and your good to go .

jnc 660 jump / carry big blue case is good .

and also boost pack .

Screw ups how?

I used my 2013 chevy sonic to jump my blazer once. Nothing blew up... :popcorn:
 
Almost every vehicle with a computer has diodes in the fuse box, to help prevent meltdowns if someone hooks up jumper cables backwards--they dont always pop fast enough to keep things from being wounded sometimes though..
Just a voltage surge can damage a computer or its sensors,even a trailer losing its ground momentarily can cause issues with electronics..

That said,I have jumped many cars and trucks with no issues...I did blow up a computer and an amp in two vehicles using a arc welder on them without remembering to unhook the battery cables though..:doah:
 
Fuse boxes don't have diodes, they have fuses. The OEMs build in zero safeguards against the owners stupidity. I've welded on hundreds of cars and never once unhooked the battery, and never hurt any of them. I've heard a million ghost stories but never seen any hard evendence of a voltage spike hurting any electronic components. (aside from fires and burned connectors.) I had a 120A alternator full field for about two minutes; burned up the ground wire for the alternator. I had a battery fall over and short out on the trans cooler line. That trans cooler line was glowing cherry red for al least a minute. It had a small hole burned in it, and a few ground wires burned up at the battery, everything else was fine. I watch a guy regullarly put jumper packsset to 24v on trucks and they don't burn up or fry electronics. I've melted the terminals off 1000CCA battery trying to jump start things and not hurt any electronics.

These are just my life experiences. YMMV. Don't reverse the polarities and you'll be fine.
 
"Best" ones are home made using thick arc welding cable,like #00 with store bought GOOD clamps,that will actually stay on both side post and top post batteries..

I Agree with this! I made my own. I did a thread on this a while back: saying what I used and where I got the parts.

IMG_8866.JPG

IMG_8868.JPG
 
Hands down, go to farm and fleet and buy these, I bought a set about 10 years ago when they were $50, They are long enough to go from one car to another lengthwise, big thick copper wire, and the clamps are REALLY strong so you get a good connection (which is the problem with most jumper cables, the clamp connection). As a side benefit you could use them to improve your grip strength, I've seen people I've helped use two hands to squeeze them. (I always check their work before I hook my end up!).

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/054962-deka-professional-service-booster-cable.html#.U-DmEfldXAs
 
The key is to hook up the cables yourself to make sure they're done right. The worst I've ever seen from improperly hooked up cable is a nasty spark, but your experiences may vary.

Jump boxes are convenient, but they are heavy and you have to charge them periodically. I did get a 900amp box for the boat from Autozone for 80 bucks. It starts everything, including my buddy's cranky old Cummins.
 
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I bought some of those huge, thick real long cables back when I was driving trucks and pulling refer trailers, needed them now and then for jump starts of the refer engines, they are really nice.

I have used them through the years jump starting other cars, at times I have helped others get their cars started when they pulled out and were trying to use some cheap emergency pack type cables, it took a LONG time to get the vehicle started, I'd pull them off, put my cables on and the car would almost start immediately.

It's a lot of money for cables, but they are worth it. I'll never buy another cheap, thin gauge set again :waytogo:
 
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