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Best junkyard cars for relay packs

I'd go (and did) with one of these before that:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46346/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-15303-6-2-4-RTMR-Mini-Fuse/

Still not as versatile as I'd like (being able to gang up a few fuses and/or relays instead of all or none) but the best I've found so far to keep wiring clean. 10 fused circuits isn't that many either, if it was a bit larger it would be useful for a longer period as you add circuits.

I wasn't able to find any for sale, but Delphi also makes or made a modular setup that shouldn't be real expensive, but I like the Bussman one because there are many options on what side is ganged or not, cover, etc.

I'm presently running an 8 gauge wire to my auxiliary panel, but I'm not running the cooling fans off of it, just injection stuff, backup camera/mirror, etc. I will most likely run the high speed heating fan off a relay, and may need to consider increasing the feed wire size.

I didn't post earlier in this thread because of the title...but for the most part I'm done messing around with junkyard parts, at least for electrical like this. I don't have as much time as I used to, wrecking yards are getting harder and harder to deal with, and being able to run new wiring, new connectors, and not have any solders/splices to fail is a huge benefit IMO. I can crimp a ton of those connectors a lot faster than I can solder/shrink tube (or crimp and shrink tube) a bunch of random wires, especially as the wires get larger.
 
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dyeager535 said:
I'd go (and did) with one of these before that:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46346/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-15303-6-2-4-RTMR-Mini-Fuse/

Still not as versatile as I'd like (being able to gang up a few fuses and/or relays instead of all or none) but the best I've found so far to keep wiring clean. 10 fused circuits isn't that many either, if it was a bit larger it would be useful for a longer period as you add circuits.

I wasn't able to find any for sale, but Delphi also makes or made a modular setup that shouldn't be real expensive, but I like the Bussman one because there are many options on what side is ganged or not, cover, etc.

I'm presently running an 8 gauge wire to my auxiliary panel, but I'm not running the cooling fans off of it, just injection stuff, backup camera/mirror, etc. I will most likely run the high speed heating fan off a relay, and may need to consider increasing the feed wire size.

I didn't post earlier in this thread because of the title...but for the most part I'm done messing around with junkyard parts, at least for electrical like this. I don't have as much time as I used to, wrecking yards are getting harder and harder to deal with, and being able to run new wiring, new connectors, and not have any solders/splices to fail is a huge benefit IMO. I can crimp a ton of those connectors a lot faster than I can solder/shrink tube (or crimp and shrink tube) a bunch of random wires, especially as the wires get larger.
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I hear ya...
the only thing to me is cost. I can make the time... I LOVE waytekwire... hah still got about 80' left of loom.. every connector possible, etc.. hah...

so for $25 for that plus you have to buy the fuses and relays... id say what $40-$50? yeah looks nice...


this one is nice...
2jeffs1 on youtube..
impala, buic, 2000-2004 double box
 
oh and that one I just posted and this one.. are not waterproof.. thus the best thing I like about the olds 88 stuff!!!!!

this one is cool too...
watching it now even though I just posted it.. and ummm
he is using cat5 wire.. I know switching relays is what very low wattage.. but cat5 is good enough??? @3:12

mid 90's Cherokee
 
I'm picky I guess. The other problem I've had with OEM stuff is that it's all made for mounting to weird, uneven surfaces. And it's all plastic, so hard to adapt vs. metal which could be welded or even bolted in place more easily.

Download or view this:

http://www.powerandsignal.com/docs/DCS Global Catalog.pdf
PDF page 312+. I've found both the Hybrid module and Mini fuse module in GM cars, and used both, but they are just too small. I can't find the electrical center base for sale, if it can be found, and isn't stupid pricey, that would be pretty useful I think, coupled with the others.

You are right, with the terminals and cavity seals, I'm into the Bussman piece right around $50. I already have to purchase new wire to make the proper run lengths, so the expense IMO is justified...either spend the time and money soldering new wire to old, or spend the money to crimp new terminals on new wire, and arrange the panel like I want. I had to re-arrange the OEM panels in the way I needed, to gang up circuits based on ignition switched or battery, so that was just more time dealing with very small components. I see no benefit to wiring every single fuse separately. It ends up being a rats nest. Especially when using relays to feed multiple fused circuits. It's not that tough, just time consuming. And to gang them properly, I still had to track down the proper terminals that were still on the "tape" they come on from the manufacturing facility, and again, more time and expense, which realistically took more time and money than just going with the Bussman piece and Waytek components off the bat.

And if I needed more capacity, I'd consider this:
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?Idc...veAs=0&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=PCT_1531526

I recall looking at it, but not sure why I dismissed it...probably knew I'd not need THAT many, and size starts to be a factor IMO. And again, inability to gang up only a certain number of circuits limits usefulness to me.
 
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RootBreaker said:
watching it now even though I just posted it.. and ummm
he is using cat5 wire.. I know switching relays is what very low wattage.. but cat5 is good enough??? @3:12

mid 90's Cherokee
Click to expand...

Trying to watch that now (slow internet), the initial thought I have about using Cat5 for automotive purposes is "stupid". I'm not basing that on fact, I'm just guessing it's not right. I'm not going to second guess what the OEM's spec for wire. They cut corners, if it was safe to use Cat5, they would. The sheathing PROBABLY isn't rated for continuous exposure to underhood temps, let alone water, oil, whatever else the TXL/GXL/etc. automotive wire is. Obviously it needs to be rated for the load you expect it to carry (plus margin of error), but that is only part of the equation.

Watching him try and split the terminal crimps...BTDT, no thanks. I'll buy the terminals for $.20/each and be done with it. Edit: I'm also going to add that based on experience, those terminals should be considered "one and done". Once crimped (or accidentally bent) they are extremely fragile, and the crimps or terminal itself will break with minimal force if you work them again.They tend to be quite brittle. Can you do it? Sure. Will some of the re-crimped (or bent) terminals fail? Yep. Do YOU want the crimp failing on the wire that has battery voltage going to it, before the fuse?

No strain relief on wire that is probably 32AWG or something equally tiny (the cat5), coupled with connectors that are nowhere near the proper size for the wire gauge? Right, that will stand the test of time in an automotive environment."Doubling up"? That isn't increasing the mechanical strength of the connection one bit. The diameter of the wire is the problem.

Why is he using terminals that aren't locking into the fuse panel? So when you push in a relay or fuse, the terminal pushes out the back?

That's me, I feel the same way about fuel hose/line, etc. I'm just not interested in at best doing work twice, at worst, burning my rig down. Anything in between those two is a possibility when second guessing OEM, and I try not to do that when it comes to safety or re-working something.

He seems to be slightly above the "previous owner" level of work. Just saying. Edit: based on not using locking terminals, he achieves "PO" status.
 
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^^^ very informational. I am not too sure about the cat5 either. as for elements... where I'm going to mount it, it would have bare minimal under hood.... but ill research more on that...
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_5_cable

Cat5 is apparently rated at +60*C.

https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Selection-Guide-_ep_29.html

GXL/TXL is rated for 125*C. That's 140*F vs. 257*F. Not insignificant, nor is 140* very much off what is seen underhood, especially if touching any metal components, whether intentionally or not.

Additionally, I'm sure that the closer to the rated temp you run wire, the more brittle and sooner the sheathing will fail. You see that on automotive wiring already rated for 257*F, I don't think I'd want to try and run something rated for far less.

@Fordum probably has some good input on this.
 
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It is raining out but went to junkyard to show them a pic of fuse pack w relays... he said oh fusebox... $20. Going back tmorrow. They had a olds 88 last time but i couldnt get hood opened... im going to trace every wire as far back as i can....rain or shine...
 
Cat5 underhood is even worse than those stupid snap-on insulation displacement splices. You're building inevitable failure in from the start.

95f9697d268b9aec98f85e0ffcd77a9df14b6d63024be8369c867de3ff4bdf88.jpg
 
To power the relay coil 18AWG is good, or even 20. For stuff close together, even smaller wire is OK, but it's not just about the size. 4 strands of 24AWG from Cat 5 cable would be the same copper as a single 18AWG, but a lot of network cable is solid and therefore not good for vibration. Also, you need real automotive type insulation, which you won't find in computer cables.
 
Blue85 said:
To power the relay coil 18AWG is good, or even 20. For stuff close together, even smaller wire is OK, but it's not just about the size. 4 strands of 24AWG from Cat 5 cable would be the same copper as a single 18AWG, but a lot of network cable is solid and therefore not good for vibration. Also, you need real automotive type insulation, which you won't find in computer cables.
Click to expand...

Agreed im gonna order automotive cable soon and wasnt sure size...
 
You can find good (pure copper) stranded GXL/TXL wire on ebay (US sellers only IMO) in nearly every color/AWG you can think of. In the smaller AWG, I'd imagine $.10/ft or so if you buy it in 25ft or longer increments. I just paid $.17/ft for six 25ft lengths of various colors 12AWG GXL. Which included the Orange and Brown I needed, but always nice to have extra for the future.

It may be OCD, but I like to keep the same color scheme GM did when wiring, if possible. Pink being ignition switched power, and orange being battery. I don't know the color schemes used for other types of wire runs.
 
I've seen guys use flat "ribbon" or round trailer wiring when they needed several conductors in one jacket for low amperage uses under the hood,it holds up well..
 
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