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best lift kit for stock 78 blazer

GhettoPop

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I'd like to put a lift on my bone stock 78 blazer. I've done research online and searched the forums here and I've decided on a 4" lift to fit 35" tires on 15" wheels. Hopefully I won't need to trim the fenders to avoid rubbing. This truck will be driven on the weekends mostly on paved road. If I do some offroading it will be on the beaches here on Long Island or on backroads in upstate NY and I don't plan to flex the truck to its limits. I just always wanted a lifted truck and a little ground clearence will help when hunting and other light offroading. I will probably not be towing anything either, if yes, it won't be anything large and heavy, maybe a couple ATVs or a snowmobile. I would also like to keep the option of putting on a plow in the future, dunno if that matters when choosing a lift kit.

It seems a lot of people use the Tough Country and Rough Country lift kits. I plan on going with new leaf springs in front and rear since mine are all original and they must be sagging somewhat by now. They don't look it though and the truck only has about 96k miles but I figure they are quite old. Sounds like the Tough Country springs offer better ride quality and the Rough Country are a little on the stiffer side.

1. For those w/ a 4" lift or similar, what brand did you go with and how do you like it?
2. Will I need to trim fenders? It may be worth mentioning that I have factory diamond plate running boards.
3. Other than a lift like this one:
http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_77-87_4.html
will I need to purchase anything else such as single or duel steering stabliizers, extended brake lines, transfer case drop kit, frame support, etc?

My only fear is lifting the truck and causing problems in other ares like leaks, excess wear, excessive vibration, etc. Never did this before so just trying to learn. Thanks in advance.
 
Check out offroad design. They have an ALL inclusive lift kit with excellent components.

You can find ORD in the vendor section.
You might want to look into a steering box brace also.
Good luck
 
Rough Country makes one of the cheapest, roughest riding springs out there.

The basics you need for a 4" lift are some way to lift the truck, shocks, and some kind of brake line and steering correction.

In the front you need a 4" front lift spring. The ride and quality between brands vary a lot, we carry a few different brands but feel that Tuff Country is the best.

Generally a shackle flip is the best way to get 4" of lift in the rear. It's really the best riding, flexiest option. A 4" rear lift spring would be next, with a block being the worst (while they don't really hurt ride quality they are failure prone and cause axle wrap etc).

A raised steering arm is generally used on the stock axle for steering correction.

Some people have good luck with relocating brake lines, others don't. Just about everyone who orders a kit from us also orders extended brake lines.


As mentioned, there is plenty of info on our site. Check it out, hopefully we can help you out!
 
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I'd agree on the ORD setup! I have a 3" system of theirs with TC EZ rides up front and a rear shackle flip and the ride is GREAT!!!! :thumb:

Definitely do the frame reinforcement at the steering box and the box brace, better to beef it up now and avoid having problems later!!!!
 
With a 4" you will also need a raised steering arm, extended brake lines, swaybar drop brackets, new steering stabilizer with any kit. I would also advise getting new shackles. I would also budget for new draglink and tie-rod ends so you have a complete updated suspension (aside from BJ's)

Check with member cornfield creations, he runs basically what you want on his 1979

IMG_6491.JPG


http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278001&page=2
 
where in this wonderful Zoo Yawk ****y are you at?
another thing you may consider is a 2.5-3" lift with 33's.
 
some of the best wheelin I ever did in my Power Wagon was a day driving around the city... potholes the size of swimming pools.. :eek1:
 
With a 4" you will also need a raised steering arm, extended brake lines, swaybar drop brackets, new steering stabilizer with any kit. I would also advise getting new shackles. I would also budget for new draglink and tie-rod ends so you have a complete updated suspension (aside from BJ's

If you're budgeting for new tie rod ends and drag link ends, you may want to look into crossover steering.

It does cost more than just replacing the stock parts but if it's something you may want to do eventually you'll save money because crossover or an HD tie rod come with all new ends.


Otherwise it's good advice, pretty typical for those parts to be worn out.
 
If you're budgeting for new tie rod ends and drag link ends, you may want to look into crossover steering.

It does cost more than just replacing the stock parts but if it's something you may want to do eventually you'll save money because crossover or an HD tie rod come with all new ends.


Otherwise it's good advice, pretty typical for those parts to be worn out.

crossover is only $200?
 
crossover is only $200?

No, but if you would be replacing the draglink ends anyway and need a raised steering arm for the lift you could put that money towards crossover instead
and be well on your way.

We see people every day that have put money into trying to make the stock stuff work only to start over and do crossover. Just something to think about, plus that stuff is on sale right now.
 
No, but if you would be replacing the draglink ends anyway and need a raised steering arm for the lift you could put that money towards crossover instead
and be well on your way.

We see people every day that have put money into trying to make the stock stuff work only to start over and do crossover. Just something to think about, plus that stuff is on sale right now.

Chris, I only have zero rates on my K5; I like the closer to stock look and ride. I've thought about doing crossover on mine. Is it worth it on a basically stock suspension? Although everything is pretty new on my suspension, I still get that slight pull to the right when braking, which a lot of people attribute to the push/pull drag link. I am hoping crossover would give better steering response as well as fixing the pull.

(sorry about highjacking the thread; just thought I would get my question in while the crossover subject was brought up)
 
Chris, I only have zero rates on my K5; I like the closer to stock look and ride. I've thought about doing crossover on mine. Is it worth it on a basically stock suspension? Although everything is pretty new on my suspension, I still get that slight pull to the right when braking, which a lot of people attribute to the push/pull drag link. I am hoping crossover would give better steering response as well as fixing the pull.

(sorry about highjacking the thread; just thought I would get my question in while the crossover subject was brought up)

Crossover steering can work on lower lift heights but just a 1" zero rate really isn't enough.

As for your pull while braking, try taking your hands off the wheel and step on the brake. If it doesn't pull or doesn't pull as bad, it could be due to the steering.
 
Thanks for all the advice and info. I appreciate. This message board really is awesome.

Chris, I will check out your ORD site and try to learn so more about everything I need.

ShovelBill- I'm in Queens, NY.

I really like Cornfield Creations' 79. That's the look and height I'd like to end up with. Even his color combo is really nice. My 78 is black with gray down the sides...if I can figure out how to post a pic I'd like to show you my 78.

Keep the suggestions coming and I'll keep on reading and doind research.
 
Just throwin' options around here...
While you are buying the kit keep in mind, the front springs and the shocks are going to be responsible for 90% of your ride quality and drivability, and that equals your happiness!
Do it RIGHT... ONCE!
That said, have you thought about 56" front springs, instead of stock (52") ones? The mod is pretty easy, ORD should be able to help you (I love that place!), and it made a HUUUUUUGE difference in ride/drive for me.
And definatly do the cross over steering, no sense in spending money for stuff you'll replace later anyway. Trust me everyone here has learned that lesson!
If it isn't in your budget, wait untill it is...
What kind of wheels were you looking at? Just curious, it's a good looking truck!
 
That said, have you thought about 56" front springs, instead of stock (52") ones? The mod is pretty easy, ORD should be able to help you (I love that place!), and it made a HUUUUUUGE difference in ride/drive for me.

You mean rear springs? Stock front springs are ~47"
 
No, but if you would be replacing the draglink ends anyway and need a raised steering arm for the lift you could put that money towards crossover instead
and be well on your way.

We see people every day that have put money into trying to make the stock stuff work only to start over and do crossover. Just something to think about, plus that stuff is on sale right now.

steering arm is $65, TRE's and DL ends are $50 ea, thats like $265...how much is your crossover kit total?

keep in mind not everyone builds a rock crawler, I think he will be fine on the beach


I'd like to put a lift on my bone stock 78 blazer. This truck will be driven on the weekends mostly on paved road. If I do some offroading it will be on the beaches here on Long Island or on backroads in upstate NY
 
steering arm is $65, TRE's and DL ends are $50 ea, thats like $265...how much is your crossover kit total?

keep in mind not everyone builds a rock crawler, I think he will be fine on the beach

Our 10 bolt crossover steering is normally $425, $382.50 right now during our holiday sale.

The raised steering arm may work perfectly fine for him, I never said he absolutely needed crossover. I did suggest that if he's considering crossover steering that he could look into it because that also gets him the steering correction needed and new draglink ends, that way you only have to buy these things once.

I'm not a salesman and I sure don't work on commission, I'm a mechanical engineer and my projects are more R&D than anything. I post up here now just like I always have, I'd like to think I'd have made the same comments whether or not I work for ORD.

Anyway, I took the last post as a shot as if I'm trying to push product on people and I'm not. I'm just pointing out options like I would with anyone else, just like I would advise people against buying gears, lockers etc. for their 10 bolts when they know they are swapping axles next summer.
 

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