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Best line lock to use as an e-brake

R

RIPPEDK5

Guest
decided to use a line lock with my brake setup on my dick brake conversion of the 14 bolt


is there better ones then others? longest lasting? best ones that hold pressure?

best place plumb them in for best results?
 
Just to clarify, you can use a line lock for a parking brake but not an emergency brake. E-brakes are typically mechanically activated and therefore will still function if the hydraulic portion of the brakes fail. Anyway.......

I've had electric line locks on my off-road K5 for many years (one for the front, one for the rear). They are easy to install since the electrically activated valves can be mounted in the engine bay so you don't have to route brake lines into the cab, only a couple of wires. They draw very little power so they can be left on with the engine off for at least a couple of hours, but if you leave them on overnight they will drain the batteries which disables them (besides for the truck not starting). Been there, done that.

Second option is a mechanical valve, some are ball valve type, but you need to mount it inside the cab so you can get to it and also deal with routing the brakes lines into, and back out, of the cab.
 
I would perfer a toggle swith of some kind....

correct this will be used a parking brake for inspection reasons, since you need on to pass and it must hold to 1500 rpm in drive and i dont want to deal with the mechanical parking/e-brake and cables


the trucks an automatic so im not worried about rolling away
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
I would perfer a toggle swith of some kind....

correct this will be used a parking brake for inspection reasons, since you need on to pass and it must hold to 1500 rpm in drive and i dont want to deal with the mechanical parking/e-brake and cables


the trucks an automatic so im not worried about rolling away
Click to expand...

Summit has a "drag racing" type line lock for like $30.00 that has served me well for many years. It is an electric valve and just goes inline.

However I would use a ball valve like ORD did on the UA truck. They sell them it's manual and would need a brake line in the cab but it doesn't need power.

I have been under the impression though that a parking brake had to be separate from the normal brakes?
 
well, i understand i could use elderado calipers and then try and find the actuating levers, then try to find cables that work with my current cable or get custom ones. i know this

but, i believe it new hyundai's (i think) and newer cadillacs use electro mechanical brake activation for parking brake which uses the caliper but switch.

not a whole lot different then using a line lock activated by a switch

unless theres different ways to put a parking brake on the vehicle

mind you this is a 1982 14 bolt going into a 2005 silverado
 
Check your states rules. I'm pretty sure to pass it needs to be a mechanical brake seperate from the hydraulic system. I had to put the caddy e brake on mine in pa to pass.the only other type is the high angle driveshaft brake that uses a new shaft and a new solid mounted rear flange with a disk and brake bolted to the tail housing.
 
it is suppose to be mechanical, but since there isnt way (that i know of) to properly mount cables that will make them work properly

my current setup under the truck is a 1986 10 bolt that i have parking brake cables like normal on drum brakes and they just dont work right with the newer setup and it doesnt hold... and i either over adjust them to make them grab and have lock up problems or have good brakes and a quazai sort of working parking brake


-----

i am currently using regular calipers on my 14 bolt setup..
 
can you put a driveline brake off the yoke of a 14 bolt?

someone also told me to use a caddy ebrake caliper on only 1 side..what do you think?
 
decided to use a line lock with my brake setup on my dick brake conversion of the 14 bolt
Click to expand...

Never needed a brake on mine............

I agree you need to check to see if a line lock will meet the inspection requirements.
If it just has to hold 1500 in drive, find a big rock or wheel chock.

Back when we had inspections here in Fl, I had to pick and choose where I took my old Jeep.
The E-brake was a single shoe drum brake on the rear drive shaft that you engaged by pulling up on a dash mount handle.
Didn't even had the advantage of a lever. The only time I tried to use it to stop, it caused a loud grinding noise and smoke came up through the floorboard as the mud and stuff burned off the shoe.
I think the Jeep got faster.

It might be the same in your case. Ask around and see what shops will take what for the requirements.
If the inspections were actually about safety, then an E-brake should be a separate mechanical backup to the hydraulic.
Preferably at the wheels to enable it to stop the vehicle even if the drive train failed.
But, since most of these systems are all about collecting fees and fines, you may be able to game the system with a line lock.

If you had some way to lock the front drive shaft, you could use your transfer case as the E-brake.
Just shift into 4wd, and its not going anywhere.
 
i might getaway with a line lock at one place(a place i worked at for years as an inspector) but im not sure, that was a couple years ago


ive seen the drum style brake you speak of and would be the same theory as a driveline caliper brake.. but its an auto trac transfercase and has a slip yoke and the vss in the transfercase tail shaft. so i dont think it would work well :dunno:

i am open to suggestions like that, just dont think the elderado caliper setup will work right
 
Home depot brass ball valve has been in mine, after the summit racing one locked up in Moab. Had to bypass the valve out on Flat Iron Messa. Catching up to the group was fun.
 
Mico lock......


http://www.mico.com/products/lever-lock


flip the lever,,,,,,,stomp the brakes... and it holds till you release it..:woot:

I use one in the buggy as my park/ e brake...as I have four wheel disk brakes and no mechanical e-brake....

and most states will require a mechanical form of e-brake for the street...
OR they will accept a secondary hydraulic brake as long as it is completely separate from the main vehicle braking system....

IE: you could put a second caliper on the rear disk and have an independent hydraulic actuator on that one caliper.
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
mind you this is a 1982 14 bolt going into a 2005 silverado
Click to expand...


Why are you putting an 82 14 bolt in a 2005 silverado? The 2000+ 14ff will bolt in way easier, and already has rear discs with mechanical ebrake.

Seems like you are making this harder than it needs to be.
 
I'm 99% sure you wont get a sticker using a line-loc as a parking/emergency brake,far as I know the stock one (mechanical) must be working correctly to pass inspection... Wish it wasn't that way....on my Ford Contour,the console must be removed,the exhaust dropped down,and the tin sheilds covering up the undersides off before you can even see them...if I had my way I'd just put a couple of electric actuators on the rear caliper e-brake levers,but they would say "its not mechanical like stock" and not pass the inspection--in my opinon it'd be safer with electric actuators because it would have a better chance of working!....................................................................................................I hate E-brakes--they only get used ONCE a year in my vehicles--when the inspector tries it to see if it works!...every car or truck I tried to stop using the e-brake usually just locked up one rear wheel,and the car felt like it went faster,kept right on going--if you weren't thrown into a skid sideways first!--you'd be better off with NO brakes rolling to a safe stop probably!...use it to park on a hill ,and it wont release fully from never being used much,or they freeze up in the icy weather,etc.........................................................................................I remember when I had my 72 K5 apart ,I used a crowbar as an E-brake,I dropped it thru the tranny tunnel hole in the floor,right thru the front driveshaft yoke...it worked well,but getting it back OUT proved to be quite difficult!..weight of the truck wedged it between the frame and the drivway really well!...
 
dhcomp said:
Why are you putting an 82 14 bolt in a 2005 silverado? The 2000+ 14ff will bolt in way easier, and already has rear discs with mechanical ebrake.

Seems like you are making this harder than it needs to be.
Click to expand...


To answer this, i have already had one in it before.. (never bothered with an e-brake before- cause i could put my own inspection stickers on)

This whole swap, at least around where i live is a whole lot cheaper then going out and buy a NBS 14 bolt and then replacing brakes etc. not including this time im opting for new tires and rims all the way around.. Im also doing new gears, so basically this 14 bolt will be new instead of paying $1000 for a used setup.. i got my axle for $150...$600 or so later ive got new disk brakes, rims, gears, seals, swap kit (u-bolts, plates etc) and a little labor and its in the truck... im just doing more to this one to make it better.

A "Dick Brake" is something you'll have to ask your health teacher about



I agree especially on an automatic, why require one. Up here in New England I guarantee that most used vehicles probably dont work or are inadequate. Since we have every type of weather, they just stop working

I actually dont think having another caliper is a bad idea, just have to figure out how to impliment it. Maybe since I have ORD disk brake conversion kit, I can use the bent style mount like DIY4X has and replace one of the 1/4 inch spacers to mount it...hmmmmm
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
I would perfer a toggle swith of some kind....

correct this will be used a parking brake for inspection reasons, since you need on to pass and it must hold to 1500 rpm in drive and i dont want to deal with the mechanical parking/e-brake and cables


the trucks an automatic so im not worried about rolling away
Click to expand...

You might want to check but i'm fairly certain it is a FEDERAL mandate that the e-brake be a separate MECHANICAL device and NOT hydraulic.
 
Well it came ro thought that i could use my my parking brake assembly in the cab attached to a lever operated. caliper and pad design like in medium duty trucks.. since the foot pedals racheting and it will hold pressure on the mechanical arm that forces the pad into the rotor..
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Well it came ro thought that i could use my my parking brake assembly in the cab attached to a lever operated. caliper and pad design like in medium duty trucks.. since the foot pedals racheting and it will hold pressure on the mechanical arm that forces the pad into the rotor..
Click to expand...

That's gow the high angle driveline e brake works. Not sure how much it cost though. Get a heavy duty driveshaft with it though.
 
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