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Best motor oil??

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pismorat

1/2 ton status
Joined
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Location
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I have a built 406 smallblock that I run Vavoline DuraBlend 20/50 in. When I hit the trail, I burn about a quart per trip, and it blackens fast. Is there any oil out there that is better? I have been looking, but don't know what works best. Quaker State 4x4? Full synthetic? Mobil 1? Royal Purple?... /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
 
/forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif 20/50! Wow. I'd try sythetic. I just noticed at Wally world last night they have a Maxlife full synthetic 10-40 /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Oh yeah, Valvoline all the way, I've never used another brand, I use what my dad used and what his dad used!
When the quick change places change the oil a couple times they used the cheap crap (ie quaker state or other brands) I had it back in there with 5 miles... CHANGE IT NOW and I want to see empty bottles afterward and I stood there and made them drain the oil out of the motor and the filter then put in 5.5 quarts of Maxlife. It ran fine after that! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif They didn't beleive me till we took a test ride around the block and it did not like the other oil its was hesitating and stumbling like they put 10 quarts in it, they changed it and we went for another ride and it was smooth as could be.
 
Valvoline is the only way to go IMHO. I only like Mobil 1 and Synergyn oil better, but they are to expessive for my taste. Oh yeah a quik secret: NAPA brand oil IS valvoline that is in a diferent container. If you look on the back and compare WHERE they are made, they are mad eint he SAME place. So even though I work at napa, about once every two months, they have NAPA oil for $.99 a quart. Last time I bought 5 cases /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif And the Napa oil is now avaialable in the FULL Synthetic version and the OTC price is about $2.19 a quart.

That aside, it sounds like you have some serious blowby issues! I run NAPA (valvoline) 10w30 in my 454 and I only use about 3/4 of a quart every 3000-4000 miles. I attribute this to not only the fact that BBCs drink more oil, but I am also running a SS-50 Plasma Moly ring set that has a low-tension oil ring. My oil is reasonalby clean at the change interval.

If you are drinking that much oil, esp that much oil when you are running 20w50, there is something else going on! You could try running the Valvoline 20w50 FULL synthetic! I have friends taht SWEAR by the Valvoline Max Life. ONe of my buddies was using about 2 quarts of oil every 3000 miles (this is in a H22A Prelude motor, BTW) and he switched to Max Life and he has NO drips or errors at oil change time now /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif


I'll quite rambling...Just a few excerpts from "Deep Thoughts, by Chris Marshall"

/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

Chris
 
I also have a built 406 SBC and I ran mobile 1 synthetic 15/50 and it burned a quart of it every 200 miles! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I finally just switched back to Napa 20/50 and it is hardly burning it. Like said above, Napa oil is Valvoline just in a different colored container. The expensive synthetics are nice if you have a built motor that doesn't burn a drop of oil but at $5 a quart I couldn't afford to keep oil in it. As far as the burning of oil, My rings were all set right when we built the motor and the heads are rebuilt, I figure 400's are like 454's which are a little hard on oil. Although I havent hardly burnt any 20/50 napa oil yet. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
Synthetics seem to burn a lot easier in my experience. I now use Napa brand valvoline in almost all of our heavy equipment and I love the stuff...

Pismorat, how much power are making with your 406?
 
Synthetics are nice for the older, worn out powerplants. Instead of changing, burnt up and black oil every 3000 miles, it's now maybe once a year. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
synthetics will often times make oil leaks appear be careful on old engines...

i would not recomend changing over a 100k or more motor to synthetic.

good oils would be
valvoline
Moble 1
amsoil
redline
 
I did not know that NAPA oil was Valvoline... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Thanks for the tip!
 
I run valvoline and in my opinion, it is one of the best oils on the market (besides amsoil or mobile one which are way too expensive for me.) Mobile one is the only oil recommended for the new corvettes, and if you put any other oil in them, it voids the warranty. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif I would never run quaker state in any of my vehicles. It is the worst oil. I have seen quaker state turn into vasoline literally in an old vw I had. BTW, I highly recommend not changing from regular oil to full synthetic on older engines. It burns so clean that it can actually hurt your engine because it cleans the engine, and often cleans dirt out of the seals that is keeping them from leaking.
-Harrison
 
I have over 211k miles on my ride, not rebuilt yet, and i run Quaker State 20/50 or Havoline 20/50. Mine does burn some oil between oil changes, and i found out it burns more with thinner oil. Synthetic is also a thinner oil, i wouldn't use it unless the motor was just rebuilt or was in a brand new car. I used to use the Castrol, but found that the Quaker State and Havoline keeps things quieter IMO, "lifters,rods, whatever" I have had no problems with it yet, i also use to run the high performance blend QS in the IROC Camaro i used to own as well, worked well in that ride too.

If your oil is getting blackened real fast, it sounds like to me that there is alot of blowby goin on in there, or you need to change the oil, run it for awhile and change it again, maybe just needs cleaned out.
 
[ QUOTE ]
:

Oh yeah, Valvoline all the way, I've never used another brand, I use what my dad used and what his dad used!
When the quick change places change the oil a couple times they used the cheap crap (ie quaker state or other brands) I had it back in there with 5 miles... CHANGE IT NOW and I want to see empty bottles afterward and I stood there and made them drain the oil out of the motor and the filter then put in 5.5 quarts of Maxlife. It ran fine after that! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif They didn't beleive me till we took a test ride around the block and it did not like the other oil its was hesitating and stumbling like they put 10 quarts in it, they changed it and we went for another ride and it was smooth as could be.

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif whatever dude /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
I was thinkin the same thing.... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Most inportantly change the oil and filter often, even the best oil still gets dirty!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That reminds me of another little secret of NAPA. Napa GOLD line filters are WIX filters. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif So save some $$ and get "the good sh!t" /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Chris
 
My dad got 270,000 miles on a piece of crap 2.8L using Quaker State with slick 50.
Good post though since I was wondering what to use in my fresh rebuild. It will be delivered Friday night.
 
[ QUOTE ]
My dad got 270,000 miles on a piece of crap 2.8L using Quaker State with slick 50.
Good post though since I was wondering what to use in my fresh rebuild. It will be delivered Friday night.

[/ QUOTE ]

I used Slick 50 and Valvoline 10W-30 in my 1995 2wd Chevy with a 4.3 since it was new. With 176,000 trouble-free miles it goes between oil changes without adding any oil and it is still clean looking. The truck also has just as much oil pressure as when it was new. The motor has mostly highway miles and has never been ran hard, but still doing pretty good...
 
[ QUOTE ]
I did not know that NAPA oil was Valvoline... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Without a full chemical analyses, how can you say it is the SAME stuff? The Napa oil might have all the by-products not good enough for Valvoline.

Just because it was bottled in St. Louis, does that automatically make it Budweiser???? ( /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif) No....they make several different kinds in the same place....

Maybe you are right, but I am skeptical. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
well with out getting in to this too deep, but i tryed out full syn, last oil chance and i have noticed that it was clean for a very long time and it SEEMS to have a little more pep.. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
anyone try those mesh fiters that go on the oil filter and catch any bad stuff in the oil. They seem to be a good idea because you can see any metal particles and tear your motor down before things get ugly. I'm just thinking they might constrict flow of the oil. Any opinions? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
Another thing alot of people don't realize is that an oil filter will start to bypass the oil, if it gets restricted with debris. I always buy the little plug that goes in the bypass above the filter. This way no oil gets bypassed, and has to go through the filter. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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