destinbeachman
1/2 ton status
Cleaning mine up-new u-bolts,brake lines etc.Wondering what types of paints are being used for this and what the group's thoughts are.-Allen
CK5
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Best paint for axles and such
- Thread starter destinbeachman
- Start date
virgilh
1/2 ton status
paint
any rattle can you decide ive had good luck with the krylon hard hat paint its alot harder than others
any rattle can you decide ive had good luck with the krylon hard hat paint its alot harder than others
Engine paint, rattle can of course.
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
I did mine in POR-15. Later when I had to take some off to do some welding, it was even harder than powdercoat. I love the stuff.
tractor enamel is great it is cheap $20 a gallon and is really tough
1,2,3....
My first choice is POR-15...its tough stuff!..
Second choice would be Rustoleum (brush on ,not spray bombs)..if you can find "old stock" somewhere,it holds up much longer than the new "enviromentally friendly" crap they sell now does..
Third choice would be Tractor Paint from Tractor Supply..for regular paint,it holds up very good..
I've used an asphalt based paint that R-M used to sell with good results too--a guy I know swears by asphalt roof coating,(unfibred)--either the aluminum mobile home roof coating,or the black stuff used on foundation walls and underground tanks,etc..messy to use,but it does last!..here,salt lifts off just about everything you can name in a few years time..
My first choice is POR-15...its tough stuff!..
Second choice would be Rustoleum (brush on ,not spray bombs)..if you can find "old stock" somewhere,it holds up much longer than the new "enviromentally friendly" crap they sell now does..
Third choice would be Tractor Paint from Tractor Supply..for regular paint,it holds up very good..
I've used an asphalt based paint that R-M used to sell with good results too--a guy I know swears by asphalt roof coating,(unfibred)--either the aluminum mobile home roof coating,or the black stuff used on foundation walls and underground tanks,etc..messy to use,but it does last!..here,salt lifts off just about everything you can name in a few years time..
shane74
1/2 ton status
I use VHT Brake Caliper Enamel paint. It's pretty much chemical proof and takes a beating. Kinda expensive at $6 per can, but it works better than POR or any of the other metal paints that I have tried personally.
I've used the POR-15 also. If you paint bare metal (clean) you need to use the acid wash to etch the metal. The paint brush lines also smooth out as it dries.....good stuff
http://www.por15.com/
http://www.por15.com/
tiger9297
1/2 ton status
I'm about to paint my axles, frame, etc, while my engine is out. I bought the Eastwood "Chassis Black" and the primer that is compatable with it. I haven't used it yet so I can't say whether it's any good or not.
broc944
1/2 ton status
I used Rust bullet when I built my rear axle, I am using POR-15 on the front. Going to be my real world test of the two products.
I have always used POR-15 with great results.
I have always used POR-15 with great results.
beater_k20
Banned
i also recomend POR-15, but then again, i'm biased... i've got a friend who deals the stuff. 
DuPont Imron
I painted my whole underchassis, and the bottom of my box, cab etc with Zero Rust. I'm pretty impressed thus far... It doesn't harden up like many of the coatings do, and remains mildly pliable, so if a rock hits it, it dents it, but does not chip if off. Is also water repellant, and if you get mud on the frame, it washes right off.
If it sticks for a while, I can see it being a really good coating!
If it sticks for a while, I can see it being a really good coating!
az ranger
1/2 ton status
ok I guess I ll be the idiot that ask... What the hell is POR 15
73k5blazer said:
OMG!!! Somebody actually recommending a real paint with catalyst!
Imron is great! If it's good enough for aircraft, it's good enough for me. FLying an airplane through the air at 500mph is just about like sandblasting, and the stuff sticks.
And I have the full organic respirator cartridges so I can spray it. Of course, I need to move my family out of the house before I spray it in the garage.
I did my whole frame, and all my drivetrain parts with it.
That was my initial test. I sandblasted my entire frame. THen I painted a section with the IMron rpimer (colorar or something) and the imron paint. Then I tried sandblasting it again. The imron just got faded and I pretty much had to point the blast nozzle at it for about 20-30 seconds straight before it started to come off, even then only to the primer. Took another 15-20 seconds to get through to the metal. Even then it was only a spot less than the size of a dime.
After that test, I was convinced, this is the chassis coating for me.
Mabey POR15 is just as good or better, I don't know, I've never used it myself. But I think the Imron will hold up just fine.
And I have the full organic respirator cartridges so I can spray it. Of course, I need to move my family out of the house before I spray it in the garage.
I did my whole frame, and all my drivetrain parts with it.
That was my initial test. I sandblasted my entire frame. THen I painted a section with the IMron rpimer (colorar or something) and the imron paint. Then I tried sandblasting it again. The imron just got faded and I pretty much had to point the blast nozzle at it for about 20-30 seconds straight before it started to come off, even then only to the primer. Took another 15-20 seconds to get through to the metal. Even then it was only a spot less than the size of a dime.
After that test, I was convinced, this is the chassis coating for me.
Mabey POR15 is just as good or better, I don't know, I've never used it myself. But I think the Imron will hold up just fine.
Desert Rat
Fetch the comfy chair
I sandblasted my frame and did a POR-15 job on it. You have to prep it good and the best bet is to use their etching cleaner too. I over painted where I wanted to weld in my steering box brace. First I used some MEK to try and clean the POR-15 off. The POR-15 wasn't even fazed by MEK. I tried paint thinner and acetone but nothing. I then tried a wire wheel on a drill and that didn't make a dent. I finally had to ruin a grinding wheel on my disk grinder to get the paint back down to the metal. So far, my axles and anything else painted in POR-15 have been stellar in lasting. But again, proper prep is the key. I've heard good things about Imron too.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
az ranger said:
Post #8 has a link.
My rear axle appears to have been painted with POR-15 before I got it. I only know because I had to grind a crapload of it off when I moved the spring perches and shock mounts.
I had my front axle center section powder coated and I used Rustoleum Professional on the knuckles, steering arm, axle shafts, u-bolts and spindles after sand blasting them and then baked all the parts at 160° overnight to set it good and hard. It's still going together, so we'll see what a couple of Michigan winters do to everything.
G
goldwing2000
Guest
73k5blazer said:
I think the biggest advantage POR-15 has over Imron is the fact that anybody can apply it in their back yard with a brush or a roller. Imron is good stuff but, as you know, needs special equipment and environments in order to use it.
POR-15 is a Moisture Cured Urethane paint. It is "real" paint. This type of paint is commonly used in marine environs on stuff like steel bollards and steel docks & piers. The moisture in the air actually acts a bit like a catalyst.ryoken said:OMG!!! Somebody actually recommending a real paint with catalyst!
MISF has played around with using Imron & Century modifiers (Catalysts and flex additives) in POR-15. Doesn't help much from what I've seen.
