86Cucvbeater
1/2 ton status
What do you all think is the best? I need to extract a broke bolt out of my dana 60 housing.. 
PB Blaster is not working.
PB Blaster is not working.CK5
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Best Penetrating Oil?
- Thread starter 86Cucvbeater
- Start date
Which bolt? How deep?
IMO, heat is generally the best thing to use if PB does not work. I often find that welding a nut onto the remains (as long as it's not down below flush) is the best way to go about it. That "shocks" the bolt with a very fast, very high temperature increase and breaks loose the threads. After it cools, you can often back it out easily. I've also built up a "knob" of weld for and used vice grips for the same purpose.
IMO, heat is generally the best thing to use if PB does not work. I often find that welding a nut onto the remains (as long as it's not down below flush) is the best way to go about it. That "shocks" the bolt with a very fast, very high temperature increase and breaks loose the threads. After it cools, you can often back it out easily. I've also built up a "knob" of weld for and used vice grips for the same purpose.
I used to use Kroil, but then it got to where I could never find it. The wax trick works well too, but I still prefer the welding for the really stubborn stuff.rugger03 said:
Cornfield creations
1/2 ton status
When we break a bolt at the shop like an exhaust manifold bolt, we like to take like a 1/2 nut and weld the inside of it to the broken bolt, cool it off, and be careful and usually it turn it out. Works pretty good, sometimes you may twist off a couple of nuts but keep trying, just make sure to get a good weld. Just an idea
mudseeker
Registered Member
I use Free-All myself. That stuff is great for those jobs. Check your local paint store. If you cant find it,check out federalprocess.com. Thats the address on the side of the can.
pb blaster is best in easy to find stuff.
4by4bygod
1/2 ton status
JB 80 from justice brothers is real good.
gm heat riser valve lube works far better than anything else i have tried.
4by4bygod
1/2 ton status
sledheadak said:
I've never heard of that. Thanks for the tip. The best stuff I've ever used that wasn't available over the counter was zyglo fluid.. it's used in the casting industry to check for cracks the eye can't see. you just dunk the casting in it, wash it off, and hold it under a black light.. the fluid works it's way in the crack so you can see it, which is what makes it handy for extracting broken bolts & screws.
Tom
forgot about that stuff...
I had several half used cans of MOPAR "heat riser lube and penetrant" that were given to me by a mechanic at a local Chrysler dealership--that stuff was great,it had graphite in it too..I had real good luch using that stuff,especially if you heated the part up too...
He'd always charge a can of that stuff,a can of brake cleaner,and a tube of RTV to almost every job at the dealership,and only use a bit of it--the rest sat under his toolbox for weeks,and would often go bad from sitting--so I told him if he needed a worthy charity to donate it too,I knew of a certain unemployed person with a garage who'd LOVE to have his "leftovers"..
..I haven't gotten any for a long time--I think the guy quit and went to work at the FORD dealership a mile away insted! 
My dad used castor oil at the gas company where he worked --the service techs used it on LNG pipes and other rusted fittings--it was in a squeeze type bottle or a pump sprayer--not an aresol--it might have been "kroil",I'm not sure..I still have some,but all the writing came off the plastic bottle! 
I had several half used cans of MOPAR "heat riser lube and penetrant" that were given to me by a mechanic at a local Chrysler dealership--that stuff was great,it had graphite in it too..I had real good luch using that stuff,especially if you heated the part up too...
He'd always charge a can of that stuff,a can of brake cleaner,and a tube of RTV to almost every job at the dealership,and only use a bit of it--the rest sat under his toolbox for weeks,and would often go bad from sitting--so I told him if he needed a worthy charity to donate it too,I knew of a certain unemployed person with a garage who'd LOVE to have his "leftovers"..
..I haven't gotten any for a long time--I think the guy quit and went to work at the FORD dealership a mile away insted! My dad used castor oil at the gas company where he worked --the service techs used it on LNG pipes and other rusted fittings--it was in a squeeze type bottle or a pump sprayer--not an aresol--it might have been "kroil",I'm not sure..I still have some,but all the writing came off the plastic bottle!
I agree. I use the **** out of that stuff.sledheadak said:
GM#1052627
i used it when i worked at gm as a tech.
blasterD
1/2 ton status
I have used Liquid Wrench with good luck in the past. Also, for really stubborn bolts, heat is probably going to be your best bet.
jhellwig
1/2 ton status
Gee, why has no one mentioned WD-40?? 
PB Blaster
Kroil
Mouse Milk (yes, that's an actual product name - used heavily in aviation)
Kerosene and ATF mixed 50-50
Heat (gotta be oxy-acetylene; straight propane or MAPP won't pump enough heat into the bolt fast enough. Ask me how I know...)
When I worked at the truck trans shop, a lot of times we'd tack a nut onto the broken bolt and twist it out that way.
Kroil
Mouse Milk (yes, that's an actual product name - used heavily in aviation)
Kerosene and ATF mixed 50-50
Heat (gotta be oxy-acetylene; straight propane or MAPP won't pump enough heat into the bolt fast enough. Ask me how I know...)
When I worked at the truck trans shop, a lot of times we'd tack a nut onto the broken bolt and twist it out that way.
dave_90_blazer
1/2 ton status
86Cucvbeater
1/2 ton status
dave_90_blazer said:
Anyone use the kroil with silicone? Is it better than the regular kroil?
