im thinking 7018 but ive never used them...i hear they are a nice rod...mabye 6010 or 6011???also what amp should i run it at??90 if i can get it to stick??still a noob in welding for sure 
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...CK5
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best rod for a weld on brace???
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
Mig would be easiest...but if you're stuck with Stick then I'd go with 7018.
Probably best to go with a 3/32" rod and approx 80-90 amps.
Rene
Probably best to go with a 3/32" rod and approx 80-90 amps.
Rene
yep stuck with a stick for now....thanks man nwo i just have to buy some rods...
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
I've heard as a rule of thumb for amperage to rod size a quick starting point is to convert the rodsize to a decimal and thats the amps..........I didn't make this up just passing on what I've learned from welders I work with.......
IE......1/8th rod....... 1/8" = .125 .125 = 125amps
3/32" = .093" .........093" = 93 amps
and so on and so forth
IE......1/8th rod....... 1/8" = .125 .125 = 125amps
3/32" = .093" .........093" = 93 amps
and so on and so forth
That's a good ballpark, and an easy way to remember.
I forgot to add you should buy plenty of rod and practice welding uphand with it before doing the actual brace kit.
Rene
I forgot to add you should buy plenty of rod and practice welding uphand with it before doing the actual brace kit.
Rene
i need to practice with 7018...i have been practicing alot with 6011s lately cause i have them laying around...they were all 1/8 though so i need to practice with the 3/32 too...
chevyin
1/2 ton status
My experience has been that for used metal (some that has rust on it) you are better off with 6010/6011. The 60 series has better penetration properties thru contaminations like rust. 70 series rod has more flux (only one difference) making it easier to make a good looking bead, but is more prone to having voids. For this reason you will never find 70 series rod used in structural steel welds used in the construction industry. Also, 60 series is an AC or DC rod, whereas 70 series should be used DC only.
As of the amps to weld at, advice above is good. Practice, practice, practice. Most starting welders run too cold, making globy looking welds having little penetration. You can run hotter with thicker metal, simply because you can penetrate further without breakout. Good penetration is the key to a good weld.
As of the amps to weld at, advice above is good. Practice, practice, practice. Most starting welders run too cold, making globy looking welds having little penetration. You can run hotter with thicker metal, simply because you can penetrate further without breakout. Good penetration is the key to a good weld.
deffinitley some good advice there....i need to practicesome more anyway...chevyin said:
How big is your welder?
I use strictly 6011, I can leave it out in the weather, go find it a half full box laying in the weeds, and go weld a frame back together with it. Got rust? got a 1/2" of cow crap on a stansion? 6011....
7018 is a low hydrogen rod so you need to either leave it in an old refridgerator that is sealed good with a light bub in it or just buy enough to do the job because next time you go to use your supply of 7018 it will be junk. Sure makes a purdy weld though....
Go grab some 1/8" 6011, set the machine at around 100 amps+ or so, and have at-'er. If you've got a lot of welding and a decent maching, go with 5/32" rod. Thats my rod size of choice because I can crank up my machine and really roll with big rod and good heat. As far as setting your amperage, I'd set it around 100a or and see what happens. It will stick on you if it's too cold. You'll know your heat is right when you can see your bead setting down into the surface and not staying completely on top and the area gets a nice red as you move along. It's too hot if you burn to deep into the material and it gets a lighter orange yellow color, and the corners want to drip off.
I use strictly 6011, I can leave it out in the weather, go find it a half full box laying in the weeds, and go weld a frame back together with it. Got rust? got a 1/2" of cow crap on a stansion? 6011....
7018 is a low hydrogen rod so you need to either leave it in an old refridgerator that is sealed good with a light bub in it or just buy enough to do the job because next time you go to use your supply of 7018 it will be junk. Sure makes a purdy weld though....Go grab some 1/8" 6011, set the machine at around 100 amps+ or so, and have at-'er. If you've got a lot of welding and a decent maching, go with 5/32" rod. Thats my rod size of choice because I can crank up my machine and really roll with big rod and good heat. As far as setting your amperage, I'd set it around 100a or and see what happens. It will stick on you if it's too cold. You'll know your heat is right when you can see your bead setting down into the surface and not staying completely on top and the area gets a nice red as you move along. It's too hot if you burn to deep into the material and it gets a lighter orange yellow color, and the corners want to drip off.
