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Best size tire for my setup?

handloader90

handloader90

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The truck is a '76 K10 SWB. It will be used mostly offroad and on trails. It will be street driven from time to time, no highway use is planned. I would still like to be able to achieve highway speeds without any issues.

Engine/ Drivetrain

Stock 350
TH400
NP205 fixed yoke
GM Dana 60 4.56 and Detroit
14 Bolt Full Float 4.56 and Detroit.

Front:

DIY4X A-Bomb
52" or 56" springs up front pushing the axle forward
ORD high crossover steering
Drive flanges in place of locking hubs

Rear:

ORD Shackle Flip
56" springs moving the rear axle further rearward
Anti-wrap/traction bar

1410 U-Joints all around.

37" tires seem to be the go to tire for 4.56, but I wanted to know if another size tire will benefit this exact setup and my planned usage more. Would 4.88 or 5.13 be better to run a 37" tire with this specific setup?

What would be best for a 35" tire?

Also, for the driveshafts... will it be best for both driveshafts to be conventional double cardan with long slip yokes?
 
What type of terrain? I'm inclined to say 39 TSL's but that might be a little big if you don't do a lot of mud.
 
I was actually leaning towards TSL's.

A lot of mud will be seen in this truck. That's mostly what's down here in TN. I really do miss CO!
 
Aside from tire sizes, I'll say go Yukon hardcore locking hubs, not flanges if it will see any street use. You'll be locked front/rear. It wont be a happy camper.

You can probably throw "highway use" out the window with 56"s in the front. Some guys can run new 52s in the front and run at speeds, but that's a new pack.

Driveshafts, well, worry about that when the lift is done and you can check angles. I personally don't need a long slip with my 56s in the rear. If you get a lot of droop in the front, you'll need a long slip. You may have problems with a CV shaft binding up. The D60 yoke driveshaft (or even a BAMF joint, if you can fit it) seems to be the go-to for solving the problem.
 
Well I'm south of you so I know what you mean about the mud, I just didn't know how much hill climbing you might be doing. If a lot of climbing, I'd go smaller like the 37's otherwise 39's.
 
I have 56s in front and highway travel is no big deal. Lack of most of the cab more so.

When Horton was a cab truck I drove it alot. Still had old 56s in front. I didn't think it was a big deal. It was smooth riding too.

I plan on going to 52s in my daily driver jimmy. Are there better ways? Oh yah. Custom springs from ORD worth every penny. But not reality for me right now.

I had 4.56s with 39.5s and a th 350 I actually really liked that. 38s and 4.10s is another combo I had. Both would roll down the road at highway speeds no problem.

With the 40s at 75 my mileage dropped by 2 mpg vs the 38s and 4.10s but I attribute most of that to a switch from radials to bias ply.

I think 4.56s would work well with 37s and a non overdrive trans
 
I'm running pretty close to the same setup. Stock TBI350, heavily modded th350, 203/205 doubler, 1 tons with 5.13s and detroit lockers, 35 spline chromo stubs & flanges up front. 52" springs & 64" springs, anti wrap bar, 1410 u-joints all around. I run 42" TSLs. But I also have a set of 38.5 boggers I will be running at The Cliffs (because of their tire size rule) No real street driving so I can't comment about that.

Flanges are fine with a detroit since you will be in 2wd on the street, the locker will just freewheel and won't affect turning at all. The tires themselves will affect turning though. I recommend hydro assist as soon as possible. Wheeling my truck with 42s and regular crossover was difficult at times. I now have full hydro
 
So its probably best to just skip the crossover and go full hydro to save myself some money and problems in the end?

Who did you go with for your full hydro? How do you have the ram mounted with leaf springs?
 
Full hydro is not recommended for street driving. I got my kit from PSC. I can't remember off hand (truck isn't at my house so I can't check) but I think I went with the 2.5" diameter shaft ram kit http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motor...le-end-steering-cylinder-kit-with-p-pump.html



The ram probably could have been mounted up higher if I went with the double shear steering arm kit from Artec, but it's big bucks, which I didn't have at the time
 
Sweet Jesus... look at that rig! I will definitely be reading every page of the build thread for your Trazer!

How do you like the full hydro and leaf springs? Does it give you any issues?
 
handloader90 said:
Sweet Jesus... look at that rig! I will definitely be reading every page of the build thread for your Trazer!

How do you like the full hydro and leaf springs? Does it give you any issues?
Click to expand...


Thanks man. Can't really comment about the hydro yet, truck hasn't left the driveway since the install :doah:
 
My vote is the 40" LTB. I like the big lugs better than the TSL and I like the sidewalls better as well. These tires grab everything and they move a hell of a lot of real estate in the mud!!

If you are going to go 39 or 40 I would suggest a lower axle gear, or a doubler or underdrive unit.

4.56's is what I run with my 40's and highway speed with no OD is fine, but that 1.9:1 low in the 205 isn't going to be optimal for off road unless you are making big power especially in southern clay.

I have the 241 and the 2.7:1 is mostly sufficient with the trails/crawling that we do, but I have to work it hard in 1st and 2nd if I ever get into thick mud. I do have a stock TBI 350 though too so I am not making any real power.


Back when they were new and my Blazer was shiny! :whistle:



 
How do you like the 241? The reason I wanted the 205 is because it's gear driven and you don't hear too much about them being broken.
 
I think it's a great case. Its light, it's strong, it shifts nice, and it has the best low range.

Weak points are the aluminum case doesn't like to be banged against things, and the slip yoke. Both can be fixed by clocking the case and building a good skid (maybe not as necessary for mud) and installing a slip yoke eliminator.

I have been wheeling this case hard for the last 5-6 years (locked F&R on 40's) rocks, trails, mud and had no issues except the slip yoke seal wears. Its the stock 89 case with about 185k on it.

I am going to do the Magnum box/205 setup next or I would do a SYE and keep this case for sure.
 
NP205's are highly over rated. Yes they are strong. That's about it. They are heavy, loud, some tend to be hard shifting, and worst of all they are very poorly geared.

If you are not going to run a doubler, I would stay away from one. An NP241 would be your best bet, but even an NP208 is a better transfer case in every way other than strength.

Unless you want to run 33's with that setup, than the poor transfer case gearing wouldn't be so bad.......

Martin
 
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