Where have you ordered them from? How was the quality? Places to avoid? Are they all coming from the same manufacturer?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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Best source for rear window cable?
- Thread starter 82355
- Start date
Same manufacturer from what I have seen. Bought from three diferent online sources. They were identical.
Lube the new ond or it wont last. I use gun oil because the freezing temps make any thicker oils hard on the motor. Clean amd lube the regulator.
Lube the new ond or it wont last. I use gun oil because the freezing temps make any thicker oils hard on the motor. Clean amd lube the regulator.
I changed mine back to a manual crank. Lubed the slides and gear. Two fingers to operate. No more climbing through the back to force the window down or up with my drill chucked up to the cable.
I can't tell you how many times I've had to climb in the back with a screwdriver to remove the cover then use a cordless drill to the cable to lower or raise the window. Such a pain. It's a damn shame that someone doesn't make a quality cable for us anymore.
I talked to a local speedometer guy years ago about getting a quality cable made. He laughed. The ends set the size. No dice on a better cable. He said lube, lube, lube. Keep the tracks and regulator clean.
I bought this cheapie 4 years ago and it still works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1991-T...y-Chevrolet-/172360266249?hash=item282178f209
Or you can get GM
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...STRK:MESINDXX:MEVSI&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2658
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1991-T...y-Chevrolet-/172360266249?hash=item282178f209
Or you can get GM
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...STRK:MESINDXX:MEVSI&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2658
Thanks guys.
Martin
Martin
Joe In Montana
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After I unravelled two, I learned how to make the cable last years.
First - I take the motor itself apart and add CV grease to everything. Although this is not part of the cable problem, I figured "How often do I get to service the motor gear box anyway?" and just did it.
Then when I had pulled the old cables out, I found that the biggest problem was that the outer sleeve where it's factory glued to the squeeze clip that goes into the gearbox retainer - separates from the outer sleeve and the cable dies a short death.
I bough a new cable and using the same CV Joint grease, I pre-serviced it thoroughly.
Next I took some 60# sandpaper over the surface of the new sleeve to make it easy for glue to adhere to it.
Then I took just enough new 11/32" KV hose* - the rubber hose with the green stripe on it - to equal the length of the plastic sleeve and where it goes into the plastic lock device at least 1/4" or so - and split it lengthwise.
I then poured some Gorilla Urethane Glue into the rubber sleeve and slipped it over the plastic exterior of the new cable making sure that it goes over the retainer end too, for a half inch or so.
* True KV and CV hose has the green stripe and it's in 32nds of an inch ID.
I put the cable in place in the window mechanism to make it arc like it will be when it's installed - and then put another piece of split 15/32" PCV hose over the whole thing and clamped it together with a few screw hose clamps. I let it dry a day and I have had that running for the past seven years or so.
The problem I always have is that the end pops out the clip on the motor/gearbox end and the cable blows up.
Putting the extra hose over it with a strong glue is what makes it work for me.
First - I take the motor itself apart and add CV grease to everything. Although this is not part of the cable problem, I figured "How often do I get to service the motor gear box anyway?" and just did it.
Then when I had pulled the old cables out, I found that the biggest problem was that the outer sleeve where it's factory glued to the squeeze clip that goes into the gearbox retainer - separates from the outer sleeve and the cable dies a short death.
I bough a new cable and using the same CV Joint grease, I pre-serviced it thoroughly.
Next I took some 60# sandpaper over the surface of the new sleeve to make it easy for glue to adhere to it.
Then I took just enough new 11/32" KV hose* - the rubber hose with the green stripe on it - to equal the length of the plastic sleeve and where it goes into the plastic lock device at least 1/4" or so - and split it lengthwise.
I then poured some Gorilla Urethane Glue into the rubber sleeve and slipped it over the plastic exterior of the new cable making sure that it goes over the retainer end too, for a half inch or so.
* True KV and CV hose has the green stripe and it's in 32nds of an inch ID.
I put the cable in place in the window mechanism to make it arc like it will be when it's installed - and then put another piece of split 15/32" PCV hose over the whole thing and clamped it together with a few screw hose clamps. I let it dry a day and I have had that running for the past seven years or so.
The problem I always have is that the end pops out the clip on the motor/gearbox end and the cable blows up.
Putting the extra hose over it with a strong glue is what makes it work for me.
I just bought the one off eBay that claims it's a GM original part. I paid $80-something for it, and I'll let you guys know if it's the real-deal or not when it arrives in the mail.
