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Best Transfer Case for an '87 K5

GruntHunter

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Apr 28, 2002
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Apparently someone tried to remove the front driveshaft from my '87 K5. I discovered this when I pulled it into 4WD and the last remaining bolt shared off and let the yoke coupling slam into the xfer case and punch a not so nice hole in it. I was told it is a N208C and am wondering if I should replace it with the same or upgrade to something better while I'm at it.

I'll be having to make this decision within the next day or two. HELP ! ! !:(
 
You're going to get a lot of opinions.

I'm assuming you're referring to stock(ish) t-cases so I'll leave out the aftermarket stuff like the Atlas and the other new breed of ultra low, 2-3 range setups.

My opinion but here's the easiest to the hardest:

208-bolts right in and a pretty good unit as long as you have a transfer case skid plate. Might consider a slip yoke eliminator. 2.62:1 low.
241-I believe bolts in similarly as it's an updated 208 and has product improvements and a slightly better low range. Again a slip yoke eliminator would be good. 2.72:1 low.


205-Beef. Poor stock low range (2:1 ish) and heavy as sin. Wouldn't bolt right up unless you found the adapters and such with the donor vehicle. 3:1 gearsets are available and it is about the last word in stout.
203-I wouldn't consider it but it is decently stout and commonly sells cheap. All the downsides of the 205 without any real pluses aftermarket or stock. You could take the range box of a 203 and using an adapter build a doubler with a 205. 4:1 low range and 2:1 low range unless you put the 3:1 gears in the 205 and then you'd have 6:1 low range.:D
 
I should have mentioned on other thing. I don't do any rock climbing or hard trail riding. It's pretty flat here in Central Florida. I just drive it around on a hunting lease I'm on here and only have to deal with soft sand and/or mud and am only running 31 x 12.50 Mud Terrains. I've only had it low range a few times and that was for pulling a stump out and someone else out of a water hole.

What is a " slip yoke eliminator "? I've never heard that expression before.
 
208 or 241 both will be fine in your rig. 241 is an upgrade from the 208 so that's something to consider. :D
 
Slip yoke eliminator refers to the fact that right now you can just pull the rear output of the transfer case out with the driveshaft if you disconnected it from the diff. Flex too much or snap the driveshaft and it could pull right out. Doesn't sound like too much of an issue for you though.

A SYE fixes the rear output of the transfer case in place preventing the above issues. It also shortens the transfer cases output up which gives you the ability to run a longer rear shaft and a shallower angle. Important on tall, shortwheel base trucks. Sounds like it's not much of an issue for you.

I say go find another 208 and throw it in. Make sure you have a factory skid plate and you're golden.
 
Looked like it was only $55 cheaper to me.

The thing to watch out for is the NV241 was used in GM IFS fullsizes from 88+ so they probably have those things falling off trees. NV241's with the front output on the correct side for your truck were only available for 3 years I beleive (89-91) so they would be more rare.
 
Ahhhh ... you're right! I was thinking of the 203. I see the 203 is $795, 205 is $1,085, 208 is $685 and the 241 is $630.

Now that I don't have a rebuildable core I'll have to add $150 on top of that for the core charge.

Interesting that the 241 is cheaoer especially if it's supposed to be an upgrade from my 208.

I'm filing an insurance claim on it so I'm waiting to see how much they'll cover.
 
Again consider that the 241 has been used under most GM fullsize IFS trucks from 88-00 at least. So they're common. The one you want wouldn't be.

Look around your local junkyards and want ads. If you were near me I know where you could probably get 208 for free. Just get it out of the guy's yard. I'm SURE we could find you one locally to me for less than $150. I'd bet you could find one locally yourself.
 
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