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Best U Joint brand

zhgrou6

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Joined
Dec 28, 2003
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Location
NY Finger Lakes
I'm replacing the rear u-joint on my K5. My favorite parts store carries the following brands of U-joints: NEAPCO, GMB, and McQuay Norris. I've never heard of any of them. What's the best brand?
 
way up top is spicer, only an offroad shop or a driveline shop is gonna have these.

a close but distant second is neapco. i hate the precision ujionts that napa sells.
 
napa has pulled all major brand lables on drive line parts. thay are still running the name but its jap crap.:mad:

autozone has brute force thay are good joint.

hay buddy where are you in the fingerlakes?
 
Out of the 3 I would go with NEAPCO. CTM ujoints are by far the most superior u joint on the market. Although I believe they only sell them for axle shafts and not drivelines.......
 
big83chevy4x4 said:
brute force is made by neapco, read the box some time, the pdq that autozone sells is also made by neapco.

well excuse me mister perfect:mad: i wont run the pdq crap but the rest is o.k. buy me. i quess i will read the box next time.:crazy: i run whats good and dont wory about it.:doah: ......... oh ya buy the way:p:
 
Go Cheap

a smart man told me if something is gonna break on the trail why not have it be something easily replaced (U joints) Go cheap or lose your front or rear end.....easiest is always the best :wink1:


75 K5 UNDER CONSTRUCTION..............
 
Some of the time if you are in a situation to blow a u joint, all the other parts after it are gonna have a lot of binding pressure on them...u joint goes, the rest unbind and snap like that...heard of it happening before too.
 
Went with NEAPCO

Hey everybody I went with the NEAPCO 2-3011BF. Thanks for the advice. I shop at an Advance Auto Parts. Yeah, nice beefy trunnion (spider) and all. I worry more about the bearings than the trunnion. This is a sealed U-Joint, no grease fitting. I always like to be able to grease things - but U-Joints are pain cause I have to use a needle fitting on the grease gun. Everything went together fine. I used a make shift press by laying a hydraulic jack on it's side between two walls and pressing the joint together. After I got the C clips in it felt too stiff. The Haynes manual suggests giving the yoke a good wack with a hammer to spring the ears. I did that and it loosened up nice.

I'm going to leave the drive shaft out for now, because I have to replace the pinion shaft seal. I have a big old rusty fused nut to remove.
 
In my experience I just block the blazer well, jack the rear end up with it in neutral. As it freely rotates I can fit in a regular tipped grease gun in there no problem. Easier to grease then pulling the straps, but thats just my .02.
-Kell-
 
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