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Best way to get oil pressure sending switch out

tmmby119

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So....oil pressure switch is going out on my Sub. Removed all the stuff in my way , air cleaner assembly even dizzy cap and rotor to get around. I do have special socket for the switch but of course there is no way to fit it on the switch itself. I need some tip on what to use to get the old one out and new one in....
 
So....oil pressure switch is going out on my Sub. Removed all the stuff in my way , air cleaner assembly even dizzy cap and rotor to get around. I do have special socket for the switch but of course there is no way to fit it on the switch itself. I need some tip on what to use to get the old one out and new one in....

Does the sending unit sit straight up and down or at an angle? Mine have always been installed at an angle, so, just a matter of spinning them off.
 
unhook the elec connector ... pull the sender over to one side ( I did the driver side) and you should be able to get some channel locks around the widw part. Loosen a litte at a time...
 
any tips are appreciated....I do have some tools for tight spots but none in the size to fit the switch..... you should see my short fat ass hover over engine bay cussing like a f****n sailor :mad:
 
on my 88 and 91 suburban the oil pressure sender for the gauge was near the oil filter, the oil pressure switch was by the distributor, you can unscrew that one from the elbow fitting. I think I pulled the distributor and throttle body for room on my 91.
 
if the switch in in a brass adaptor thats in the block you MUST hold the adaptor secure before you try and spin out the sender. or you stand a big chance of snapping it off in the block surface. and its not easy to fix then for time and new adaptor.
 
Yeah.....I DON"T wanna get to that point already had to re-drill and tap thermostat housing bolt that snapped on me few weeks back.....and that is way easier access to do it.....I know store here in SLC, they have bunch of specialty tools, I will swing by tomorrow....craftsman makes few spec wrenches that would work in this awkward location, not sure in this size thou.....if not I can make offset boxed end wrench that would work:thumb:
 
It's ALOT easier to just pull the distributor out (gives you alot more room).
 
Sometimes access from under the truck is easier....especially if it has a body lift..
 
if its a 90 like in your sig line and its for the gauge then its on driver side of block.

the one ontop is for the computer tbi system.
 
oh, I see.....well let me ask you guys this. The reason why I wanna replace the switch, sensor is that when the engine is warm I have rough idle and the oil gauge needle is bouncing between over and under 30 psi. No problems on cold engine!!!
 
if its a 90 like in your sig line and its for the gauge then its on driver side of block.

the one ontop is for the computer tbi system.

Depends on the setup, mine uses a multi wire one on the top, like 3 or 4 wire unit, none on the side.

and as mentioned previously, I just remove the distributor completely, make it a ton easier to access, sure a slight bit more work dealing with other things, but makes it easier to see, grab and remove with a lot less chance of breaking anything off in the block.
 
oh, I see.....well let me ask you guys this. The reason why I wanna replace the switch, sensor is that when the engine is warm I have rough idle and the oil gauge needle is bouncing between over and under 30 psi. No problems on cold engine!!!

see if you have a 1 wire sender just above the oil filter on the drivers side of the engine. The oxygen sensor will be in the same area as well. If so, that would be your oil pressure gauge sending unit.


The 2 wire one on the distributor area is for a tbi computer to tell the fuel pump to turn on.
 

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