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Best way to go about 2" of lift in the rear?

handloader90

handloader90

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Planning on lifting my '79 K20 up just a hair.

I'd like to eliminate the rake in the front so the plan is to run 2.5 lift springs up front and 2" of lift in the rear.

I haul parts in the bed of this truck and I plan on towing with it soon enough so I'd like to keep all of the towing capabilities of the truck.

It currently has an Airlift kit installed out back which is fully functional that I plan on retaining. I'll have to call Airlift about a spacer or taller bags.

I've spoken with ORD about their 2.5" shackle flip. I was told to use the 2.5" shackle flip and 4.5" shackle with Tuff Country 3" springs.

I've looked at a Kit from BDS #122H and it comes with a block for the rear. I'm not a fan of blocks and usually eliminate them but I'm wondering if a 2" block would be an issue since it would be much more than an EZ-inch.

There are also the Pro-Comp 11211 2.5" leaf springs which are very reasonably price and @obijuank5 has said good things about the Pro-Comp springs.

I'd like to run Bilstein 5125's at all 4 corners so I'm not necessarily looking for a full out kit just the best way to achieve the 2" of lift in the rear.

Can't say that I've found a 2" rear lift spring online yet. I'd like to have the front and rear springs made by the same Mfg.

Just looking for opinions on this.

Looking to clear 33's on a D44/14BFF with 4.10's and a Detroit out back. Truck will be street driven 95% of the time with light trails being the other 5%. Not gonna be a wheeler so stuffing the tires isn't a huge concern to me.
 
Block it and put the daystar airbag cradle in. Done. That is all I would do because like you said, it's barely more than an ez inch. Its easily reversible. Its a low cost alternative. You don't have enough power to wrap em up enough to bust a yoke.
 
Yep, blocks, or ask for ORD/DIY to make you a 2" zero rate maybe. So you can bolt it to the leaf pack.
Keeps everything stock and usable just like stock.
 
K85 Octane said:
Yep, blocks, or ask for ORD/DIY to make you a 2" zero rate maybe. So you can bolt it to the leaf pack.
Keeps everything stock and usable just like stock.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of being able to run the center pin all the way through the block and leaves. Never liked the idea of that little nub on the bottom side of blocks.
 
That 9/16 nub on the block never necks down to 3/8 like the center pin does. All things being equal, that block nub is way stronger than a center pin.
Negligible argument in any direction IMO.
It's designed to locate and not bear any loads. The clamping force of the ubolts create friction between the spring and the plate and that keeps them in place. Just like lug nut studs don't drive the vehicle. The friction created by the clamping force lets it drive forward without slipping.
 
Might need to drop the rear brake line bracket down a little. Not a big deal and you can do on your own.
 
I had a two inch block lift in my last Tahoe. Zero issues and didn’t have to change brake lines or anything. Plus the kit is only 50 bucks. Front springs would be the most expensive part of the kit. I like my procomp springs as well. Not sure how their fronts are though. I have their rears. I’d go with a tuff country easy ride front unless you have a heavy front bumper or winch.
 
But will you need to shim the pinion angle? I've never liked a lift block plus angle shim because you lose engagement depth of the little nub. If you drill it through and use a long center bolt, you can get angled washers to match the shim and everything lines up. But a better option is to have them machine the angle into your zero-rate when you order it.
 
I have a block in my Tundra. Lifted 5" but think a 2" block. Running 35s, I've hauled, towed, dragged, and hauled ass with it and never an issue with the block. I actually need to get a lil bigger one so the rear is higher than the front. Right it's level, so with any weight the ass end sags. At night constantly getting hi beams flashed cause they all think mine are on....
 
Blue85 said:
But will you need to shim the pinion angle? I've never liked a lift block plus angle shim because you lose engagement depth of the little nub. If you drill it through and use a long center bolt, you can get angled washers to match the shim and everything lines up. But a better option is to have them machine the angle into your zero-rate when you order it.
Click to expand...
I did not have to shim the axle. The angle wasn’t enough to add anything but the two inch lift block. I didn’t have any extra wheel hop or anything as well. It’s not a big enough angle change to have a problem. I researched beforehand and I read that no one had any problem ecxcept anything above 4 inch lift. But usually a 4 inch block has a 2-4 degree angle so it’s not a huge difference either.
 
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