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Best way to repair body?

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84gmcjimmy

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Finally paying off some of my debt, so I will beable to continue working on the blazer. Most of you who read my threads last year saw the rust problem, well now it's time (almost, not until I finish the frame) to repair it all. My welding isn't that good, but it's not like a rollcage, so the welds just have to bond the metal, not hold on them for there dear life.
Anyways, The body is sitting on 4x6's on a little wheeled cart right now. I might beable to move it soon. But I won't need to until the frame is done... ANYWAYS...which way would be best to repair the rust (floor, "bedsides", wheelwellls, tailpan, tailgate, doors, etc.) on, bolted to the frame. Or on some short saw horses? I think on the frame would make most sense since there wouldn't be much of a chance of a crooked or offset piece...sort of.

But I won;t beable to do this for a while though, probably get most of the stuff from LMC truck. Probably have more than 1K I need from there...not counting interior crap.

Thanks!
 
I think on the frame would make most sense since there wouldn't be much of a chance of a crooked or offset piece...sort of.
Click to expand...

:confused: :confused: :confused:

what?


First off you will have to jump on the floor and see how rotted it is... if its just rust and it still has structural integrety then you'll be spending a lot of time with a grinder/sander... if your floor is gone in certaion spots but ok in others then your best bet becomes a patch job. Just cut out the bad spots and weld in the new piece. if the whole floor is bad then cut it all out and weld the lmc in.
 
What don't you understand?

I am buying half of the rear floor (the 2 sections closest to the tailgate) to get rid of the rust in that area.
 
I'd do it on horses, just make sure they are paralell to each other and level first. That way you can also easily get to the underside to add a bit of weld, plus paint or POR15 your work before bolting it back to the frame.

Until you have the tailpan and rear floor done you'll need to keep the hardtop on IMO. Also, make sure the bedsides are straight and the tailgate opening is the same dimension top and bottom while doing the tailpan. Aim to have a 1/8" gap on both sides of the tailgate.

I'd also work from the inside out, IE, get the floors and tailpan done before tackling the bedsides.

Rene
 
Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you are budgeting $1k for your body restoration, you might also consider keeping your eye open for a rust-free donor truck. From time to time I see rigs that are rust-free without a drivetrain for sale in that range.

Seems like a body swap would involve less labor if you could find a suitable donor...
 
xanthias said:
Maybe I'm missing something here, but if you are budgeting $1k for your body restoration, you might also consider keeping your eye open for a rust-free donor truck. From time to time I see rigs that are rust-free without a drivetrain for sale in that range.

Seems like a body swap would involve less labor if you could find a suitable donor...
Click to expand...

no, when I said 1k, I meant that, thats what I probably was going to spend on the parts to make it work. I'd rather go through the hassle of welding in new pieces, then bringing in a 3rd jimmy or blazer to fix up.

Rene, I don't have the hardtop on right now, should I think of putting it back on? When I do it, I'll do it on saw horses then, you have a good point on why to do it that way...

Just need to build some now :grin: Thanks
 
The hardtop will help keep the body together when you remove/replace the floors and tailpan...


Rene
 
Brace the sh#t out of the truck. Weld in square tube to keep it from twisting when you cut out the rusted metal. It happened to my on my very first project which was a 76 FJ40. What a learning experience (aka nervous breakdown) that was. The hardtop never sat on it right again. Leaving the hardtop off while you do the work makes it easier to work on, but definitely brace it up. I use 1 1/4 thick wall square tube and run it from the rockers to the front floor pans and inbetween the inner quarters. Having the body off the frame is good because you can POR15 the hell out of it, and get better paint coverage having it off the frame. You'll thank me later. Just my .02 cents.
 
well when i fixed my rust spots i cut out all the infected metal and patched it with coffee can (i know its prolly not the best way, but it works). you could get sheet metal and reweld it in, thats prolly teh best. i also used bondo. thatstuff is actually really strong! good luck
 
Alright, I guess I could put the hardtop back on, and add in a little bit of bracing to keep everything from warping out of square.
Thanks
 
alright I guess I will use square tube...what size would be good, but not overkill?
now I need to find the metalyard here... :crazy:
 
I think I will probablyget 1" square tube for the bracing...any disagreements? What wall thickness? or is there not an option?
thanks
 
1x1x .125" wall should be plenty. All you're trying to do is keep it square and straight while you fix it.

Rene
 
I just restored my k30...
I had most of the body parts...
But...the total on just the body..was $1500.

$1000 just isn't gonna happen unless you know someone that sells paint wholesale. ;)
 
I didn't mean 1k for the whole restoration, I meant at least 1k in sheetmetal, excluding the little stuff, and interior stuff.
I will probably end up a lot mor than I want...
 
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