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PGG

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What is the best truck battery I don't want the best warranty I want the one that most likely wont need the warranty.

What do you suggest cost no significant object.

Thanks PG
 
I'd have to say optima. I have one that is 10yrs old right now. Drained it a good dozen times, and always accepts a full charge.
 
depends if you need an optima or a deep cycle.. i swear by autozone gold batteries..

im running 2 x 1000ca duralast golds...:popcorn:
 
For me, it's all about the longevity. I've never had a battery last more than 6-7 years. And this one, for some stupid reason, keeps working. I leave the key on by accident at least once every other month. Put it on a 12hr trickle charge, and it's good to go.
 
When they are a gift, optimas are perfect. And you can't deny the fact the battery is 10 years old. That alone is worth it, not crap.
 
When they are a gift, optimas are perfect. And you can't deny the fact the battery is 10 years old. That alone is worth it, not crap.

Old Optima's are made differently than the new ones. Your 10 years old one is a better battery than the new Optimas.

I was in a maintenance platoon, generator section, attached to a frontline CAV unit in Iraq. We changed out optima batteries by the pallet. They had the worst failure rate of any other battery in use. Even when only used to start a 5k gen set. The military ones, can't remember manufacturer, almost NEVER failed.

I absolutely stand by what I said. Optima batteries are over-rated, under performing batteries compared to the competition.
 
Wasn't aware that anything changed on them.

I guess they started going cheap, which might make sense.

On the other hand, I have never heard anything bad about the Odyssey's.
 
I would say that your usage and the condition of your electrical system are the two things that need answered/verified before even considering which battery.

If the truck sits for long periods, one of the "hybrid" deep cycle batteries would probably fit the bill (these are what are commonly sold as deep cycles, they list the cranking amps, non-starter deep cycles apparently do not) better than a true starting battery.

If it's driven all the time and you aren't asking it to power stuff with the engine off, then a normal starting battery will be appropriate.

I won't get into who makes a "good" battery, plenty of suggestions already, and I don't go through enough batteries to have valid personal experience. The cheapy wal-mart starters I have run lately so far have held up fine over a few years each. It sounds to me like all of the batteries are made by one or two companies, so if nothing else I think it's luck of the draw.

None of this matters though, if your vehicle has a bad parasitic draw. I suspect MANY "bad" battery stories stem from higher than normal parasitic draws that work the battery more than the owner knows. That is an assumption, but I suspect it's valid.
 
None of this matters though, if your vehicle has a bad parasitic draw. I suspect MANY "bad" battery stories stem from higher than normal parasitic draws that work the battery more than the owner knows. That is an assumption, but I suspect it's valid.

Very valid and worth considering. I killed a very expensive Odysse battery that way...like dead, can't be 'brought back', permanent paper weight. I had a small 12v-120v inverter wired (incorrectly) in my truck. It had a small LED that was constant on. I left it in GA for almost 2 months while I went to CA. Battery was never the same after that. One more similar incident a couple months later, with some winching thrown in and it went tits up, for good.
 

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