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Wanted Better than stock Dana 60 tie rod

Cucv_M1008

Cthulhu Forever
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Anyone have a tie rod setup in the stock location that's better than stock for a Dana 60?
 
I've got a Brand New replacement one with the Moog ends that came with my axle that only has a couple hundred miles on it. Not much of an upgrade but it's up for grabs
 
While I have done pressure bleeding in the past, all with pressure over fluid filled bladder, is is fast when they work. I find they are messy and brake fluid is not something you want spreading around.
I now use a hose and bottle. I can do it on my own by making sure brake fluid covers the bottom of hose in the bottle, attach to bleeder screw, open screw, go pump brake pedal, then go close screw. Move on to next. I also have a brake pedal holder I can pump up the brakes then open and close the bleeder, before releasing the pedal. These are the only 2 methods I have use for the last 20 years, other then having and extra foot to replace the brake pedal holder.
I used to buy brake fluid by the gallon, but found it would go bad before I used half. I now buy it pints, for brake jobs, 1 quart if I am going to drain the whole system.

The above system needs a half to whole gallon to work, iirc there is no way to relieve pressure when you are done and need to disconnect. I have never actually used that tool so I could be wrong.
 
While I have done pressure bleeding in the past, all with pressure over fluid filled bladder, is is fast when they work. I find they are messy and brake fluid is not something you want spreading around.
I now use a hose and bottle. I can do it on my own by making sure brake fluid covers the bottom of hose in the bottle, attach to bleeder screw, open screw, go pump brake pedal, then go close screw. Move on to next. I also have a brake pedal holder I can pump up the brakes then open and close the bleeder, before releasing the pedal. These are the only 2 methods I have use for the last 20 years, other then having and extra foot to replace the brake pedal holder.
I used to buy brake fluid by the gallon, but found it would go bad before I used half. I now buy it pints, for brake jobs, 1 quart if I am going to drain the whole system.

The above system needs a half to whole gallon to work, iirc there is no way to relieve pressure when you are done and need to disconnect. I have never actually used that tool so I could be wrong.
Once I added C-clamps on the master, there was no leaking or mess. That system can release the pressure when you are done, simply unscrew the bottle from the cap. It took two quarts in the bottle to pressure bleed my M1028, one quart went back in the original bottle when I was done. Luckily, DOT5 won't go bad before I use it again.
 
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