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Big Axles!!!!!!

sta500666

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 16, 2004
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Location
Dubuque/Ames, Iowa
I have an 86' K-5, and I'm tired of my pussy half ton axles. I am thinking of getting a Dana 60 front, and a GM corporate 14 bolt rear. I am planning on making my Blazer into a mean indistrucktable off-road machine. I was just wondering if those big axles are the way to go, because I have been watching the Trucks T.V. marathon, and he is using a lot of Dana 44 fronts, and Dana 60 rears, or 9 inch rears. I guess all I want to know is will those axles work good for some heavy duty off-road abuse?
 
Just depends! how much you want to spend?aftermarket axles and U-jionts arent cheep! and a 60 front end is not that much $$$$$ when you compare it to replacement parts on a regular basis...I guess it all depends on so meny variables!!!!$$$, tire size, what kind of wheeling and what realy is youre def. of hard use!!!!!! big axles= good insurence that you wont be replacing parts on a regular basis!!!!!
 
Yeah, I'm probably only ganna lift it 4 or 6 inches, and put 35's or 36's on it. I just want it to be able to tow, and do some seriouse mudding and trail riding. I'm not into rock crawling to much, but you never know. I guess if I were going to make a rock crawler I would use a smaller differential for more clearance. All I want is streangth and reliability on the trail.
 
With 35's or 36's I suggest getting a 14 bolt in the back and maybe a 3/4 ton front dana 44. Once you get above 37's or so then start looking for the dana 60's etc etc. It all really comes down to how you drive your truck (AKA How much skinny pedal) and how big your wallet is feeling.
 
....and everything on QVC is the highest quality at a great price. dont use Trucks as a model to building a functional truck.
 
SLY Dog is correct!!! smore skinny pedle means more money!!!!If you are mostly gonna tow and light offroad, 14blt and a heavy dana 44 would be fine!!!!And you dont have to go rock crawling to brake lots off parts....but there is no dought that it is probebly the worst thing you can do to a 4x4.....dont get me wrong! if there is 2 things I love its lots skinny peddle and emoveable objects .......
 
Yeah, well I still think if I can find a good used Dana 60 front for cheap I'll probaly get that just to have it you know, but if not a Dana 44 will do just fine. I definatly want the 14 bolt to be a full floater just incase I ever snap an axle. Thanks for the tips.

Hey, also does anyone know what a good gear ratio would be? I have heard 4:10 is really good, but I'm not sure.
 
well I still think if I can find a good used Dana 60 front for cheap I'll probaly get that
Rotflmao:haha: :haha:

That's really funny!

Rene
 
if you want a good axle mog 406 or 416 best ground clearence and the strongest axle you can get
 
My suggestion, GO BIG. I did and I am very satisfied. About six months ago, I have the same questions, what upgrade should I do with my rear ends. After surfing several 4x4 web sites, I learned that the best and most economical way to go GM 14 bolts rear, Dana 60 front. Here is why:

REAR: GM 14 BOLTS
1. GM 14 bolts is heavy duty. You'll see them on 3/4 -1 ton trucks.
2. 8 huge wheel lugs compare to six little tiny peanut size lug bolts found on 10 or 12 bolts.
3. GM 14 FF brake shoes and drums are huge. More breaking power. You can also convert the rear brakes into disc brakes later if you wish.
4. Since it is a full floaters, you can pull the axle off without pulling the wheel off.
5. Unlike 12 or 10 bolts diff, the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the axles, that is why they call it full floaters.
6. Cheap! You can get one from you local junk yard for less than $300 bucks.

FRONT: DANA 60

1. Way superior than Dana 44.
2. Stronger axles.
3. Massive brake rotors (huge 8 lugs). Again, more braking power.
4. Perfect for crossover steering or high steer project. Unlike Dana 44, you will have to look for a flat top knuckle if you wish to do a cross over steering, which by the way a must for GM trucks.
Some people say Dana 60 is expensive but if you add up the cost of doing a cross steering and beefing up your axle on a Dana 44, or converting your rotors from 6 to 8 lugs like the one found on 3/4 ton trucks, you will ended spending more or close to buying a used dana 60.

Save your money and hunt for a 60. Good luck!
 
78blazaer said:
Some people say Dana 60 is expensive but if you add up the cost of doing a cross steering and beefing up your axle on a Dana 44, or converting your rotors from 6 to 8 lugs like the one found on 3/4 ton trucks, you will ended spending more or close to buying a used dana 60.
And then on top of the cost of the axle itself, it needs brakes, seals, crossover, hydro ram, etc. that's what makes a '60 so expensive.
 
SlyDog said:
With 35's or 36's I suggest getting a 14 bolt in the back and maybe a 3/4 ton front dana 44. Once you get above 37's or so then start looking for the dana 60's etc etc. It all really comes down to how you drive your truck (AKA How much skinny pedal) and how big your wallet is feeling.
The only reason to go to a 3/4 ton front is to get matching 8 lugs if that is what you upgraded to in there rear.

3/4 ton fronts are no stronger than 1/2 ton fronts. Just larger disc brakes.
 
four_by_ken said:
The only reason to go to a 3/4 ton front is to get matching 8 lugs if that is what you upgraded to in there rear.

3/4 ton fronts are no stronger than 1/2 ton fronts. Just larger disc brakes.
Yes but who would spend the time changing gears and hubs in their old 1/2 ton front to match the rear when they could just go buy a matching 3/4 D44 or 10B for a 1/3 of the cost that it takes to swap gears and find 8 lug hubs.
 
sta500666 said:
Yeah, well I still think if I can find a good used Dana 60 front for cheap I'll probaly get that just to have it you know, but if not a Dana 44 will do just fine. I definatly want the 14 bolt to be a full floater just incase I ever snap an axle. Thanks for the tips.

Hey, also does anyone know what a good gear ratio would be? I have heard 4:10 is really good, but I'm not sure.
I would be more interested in a set of 4.56's with 35's. 4.10's will work which is what I have but wish I would have held out for a set of 4.56 geared 3/4 axles.
 
That is very true. I ended up shelling out an extra $1800 for my RAM assist and crossover steering project. But you don't have to do this right away, you can leave the stock steering (it wont be as good) but you can get by with it for awhile until you have the money for steering upgrade.
Do it gradually. Do the crossover steering project first, then do the RAM assist later, etc..
 
Dana 60 is a good front axle, and as far as the rear goes, a midly built Ford 9 inch will outlast a stock 14 bolt FF, while being a lot lighter with more ground clearance (smaller pumpkin) :)
 
SierraClassic said:
Dana 60 is a good front axle, and as far as the rear goes, a midly built Ford 9 inch will outlast a stock 14 bolt FF, while being a lot lighter with more ground clearance (smaller pumpkin) :)

pshh...forget the 9", get an Eaton H052 or H072...they are like a 9", only on steroids :D
 
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