CK5
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big block/ diesel question.

No,it wont...I never tried bolting a gas starter up to my 6.2's,they appear to mount the same,but probably have a different nose spacing..

The 6.2 starter(s),there are 2 types,one is a direct drive that looks a lot like a typical chevy starter,but is roughly twice as big,and HEAVY,also has a different tooth count on the starter drive gear than gas engines,if I remember correctly..

There is a gear reduction style starter they used on 6.5's in later years that will bolt right up and work--but with either style,dont try using one without that little brace that bolts to the block and to the starter case or through bolts,or it will be prone to cracking the nose cone or worse,breaking the outer bolt off in the block--I've seen more than one 6.2 with the block torn off where that bolt goes too,that'll ruin your day for sure...:doah:
 
Not as bad as they used to be--there are several new ones on E-bay for about 85 bucks,some parts stores can get the gear reduction ones almost as cheap too,they are probably China imports though.....(Who knows if Delco isn't now either however?)..

I have a place local that rebuilds starters and alternators really reasonable,so if mine craps out I'll probably bring it there first,instead of buying new--.
Both starters I've had in my pickup just go "click" when I turn the key--have to try it 2-3 times before the solenoid kicks in and it'll crank now--not sure if its the wiring,ignition,or the starter(s) or solenoids acting up...
 
I have two spares on the shelf. Both the standard, non-gear reduction starters. One needs the bendix rebuilt, the other is good. Too bad you are on the wrong coast.
 
The Delco non-reduction one that was in my truck when I got it looked like it was just put in,and had a Delco rebuilt tag on it,but the starter drive would release too quickly or not "grab" when cold,so I had to invest 35 bucks into it for a NAPA "rebuilt" Balkamp starter drive,who was the only source for one less than 75 bucks for a new one,that had to be ordered in..

That starter worked great for 11 years,then it started giving just the "click" when I'd crank it,you had to keep trying,if you were lucky the solenoid would finally engauge and crank it--I had some suspicions on the neutral safety switch being responsible,but by-passing it hasn't changed anything..
I even tried pulling the starter back out,took off the solenoid "cap" and shined up the contact ring inside it,that seemed to help but it soon returned to not wanting to fully engauge and crank..

The solenoid on that starter is identical to a "hi-torque" one off a typical gas engine starter,and had I know that sooner,I would have swapped one of many good used ones I had lying around instead...

Since I had a gear reduction starter sitting on a shelf,I decided to swap that one in it as an "upgrade"...first time I put it in,when I connected the positive cable (that I replaced due to it looking iffy),the darn starter starts cranking--I had to pull it out again and move the cable lug away from the "crank" terminal on the solenoid (which is stubby compared to the one on the non-reduction starter)...then it was OK...
---but it soon started doing the same thing as the other starter did--just "cliunks" the first time or two you attempt to crank it over,then it'll kick in and crank on the 2nd or 3rd try--tried jumping the solenoid direct to the battery and it still does the same thing,so I assume its a "bad spot" in the starter's armatures or the solenoids are weak..?..
 

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