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Big buck or small buck aluminum radiator?

Skigirl

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I want to upgrade my existing radiator for an aluminum one. I can get an aluminum / plastic one for under $200, as you know. Don't know that it is a direct bolt in replacement - my guess is that it requires modifications for mounting, shroud etc.

Or, go with a Be Cool that's a bolt in direct fit, all aluminum, but $630. :yikes:

My mechanic said the aluminum / plastic ones should last 5 years before leaking. So even if I had to replace it twice to the Be Cool's initial costs, it seems a cheaper solution.

So, guys, besides the obvious price diff are there compelling reasons to go with one or the other?

TIA!
 
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HIJACK!

"Suppose you were an idiot ... And suppose you were a member of Congress... But I repeat myself." --Mark Twain

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :bow:
 
you know the old saying," its only money","go big or go home", my motto is someday when im dead, it wont matter anyways. :D
 
:haha: Yea, I'm mostly that way. Don't mind too much spending money (it's a girl thing - I'm genetically driven to shop :wink1: ). If the cheaper one isn't gonna make much difference in durability and it won't be a jerry rig job (I don't like jerry rigged stuff) getting it installed then no reason to spend $600. But if the $600 rad is a direct bolt in, no messing with shrouds or fabbing brackets, and lasts longer than the plastic by a fair bit, then it might just be worth it.

I have plenty of other things to get done on the truck in a fairly short period of time, one less PITA job would be a good thing. Driving it to Jackson Hole at the end of August. The BB05.
 
Both of our trucks that have the aluminum radiators with plastic tanks had the drivers side tank split right at the 10-year mark. They both split where the hot water splashes against the front side of the tank as it comes in from the engine.

Modine sells their "Heat Buster" copper/brass radiators that have lots of extra cooling fins. I found a local shop that sells the 3-core 454 version for $220. (Modine claims that their 3-core Heat Buster cools as good as the factory 4-core). :eek1:

One thing to look at with radiators is the shipping weight. I was looking at some on radiators.com and noticed that their "economy" radiator weighed HALF of what the OEM one weighed. Hmmm, I wonder which one would last longer before it started getting pinholes? :rolleyes:
 
Hi Harry! Been a while. I have a 4 core in there now and not overheating on normal driving (no traffic and not too hot out), but you know how heavy my truck is... and I'm doing some long distance hot summer driving, so figured I'd change now and not get stuck in Barstow again.

Whatever rad I get will be local - no shipping, so I can return it right away if something is messed up with it

Did you add an aftermarket tranny cooler in addition to an inline in the aluminum rad?
 
Yeah, you and that rig do have a reputation... ;)

I'm a big fan of trans coolers. I hook mine up so that they go through the radiator cooler first and then through the aux cooler. I consider it cheap insurance. A $50 cooler is WAY cheaper than a $1,500+ rebuild. :eek1:
 
jms, sounds like a great setup. Think I'll go that route. Do you have any pics? I'd love to see the fan setup with the aux cooler.

Harry - you're right. Small price to pay.

Thinking I'll go with a B&M stackeplate for aux.
 
OK, few more questions.

Anyone see a need to install a remote filter to the setup? The fluid would travel as follows: Transmssion, remote filter, factory cooler, new cooler, transmission

With a stack plate cooler like the 28000# one B & M makes, any reason to have a fan too?

What problems, cautions are there with a tranny cooler in cold weather (like 20 below 0)?
 
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