87 Blue Beast
1/2 ton status
im lookin to get somewhere around a 12" lift. Ive been lookin at the 12" superlifts. How are they? where is the best place to buy them and what kinda price tag do they normally have?
CK5
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Big lifts..
- Thread starter 87 Blue Beast
- Start date
On eBay, they generally sell for, on average, a new set, $1500.
If you're interested, shoot me a PM and we can "talk about 12" Superlift kits".
If you're interested, shoot me a PM and we can "talk about 12" Superlift kits".
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
I ahve a Superlift 12" lift and let me tell you, its stiff.. I can get on the back of my truck and jump up and down and it doesnt move.. I have 8" springs and 4" block in the back but I also added a ORD 4" lift shackle reversal.
Just remember to get the right springs in the front because I bought mine and the shackle angle in the front is bad.. Just get a slightly lnger spring (high arch to the spring)..
other than that with my 16+ inches of lift i can clear 47" tires with room to spare..
(by the way ) just in my opinion If you have a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton frame I think you should box the frame or re-enforce it because the springs put alot of pressure on the frame....
$1500 is about right with shocks, steering (brake lines may or may not be in the kit) if they arent -boy are they expensive!!!
You could also have custom springs made at a heavy duty truck shop (like a tractor trailer rig shop for relatively cheap and they'd be strong)
I bought mine through Superlift and it was $1000 just for the springs, blocks, u-bolts, and poly bushings (front u-bolts were not part of the kit).
4wheelparts is kinda on the expensive side of lifts.
Drive shaft angle is going suck way bad!!! front driveshaft will need cv's for more angle and be longer.. Possibly other mods will need to be made aswell
Just remember to get the right springs in the front because I bought mine and the shackle angle in the front is bad.. Just get a slightly lnger spring (high arch to the spring)..
other than that with my 16+ inches of lift i can clear 47" tires with room to spare..
(by the way ) just in my opinion If you have a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton frame I think you should box the frame or re-enforce it because the springs put alot of pressure on the frame....
$1500 is about right with shocks, steering (brake lines may or may not be in the kit) if they arent -boy are they expensive!!!
You could also have custom springs made at a heavy duty truck shop (like a tractor trailer rig shop for relatively cheap and they'd be strong)
I bought mine through Superlift and it was $1000 just for the springs, blocks, u-bolts, and poly bushings (front u-bolts were not part of the kit).
4wheelparts is kinda on the expensive side of lifts.
Drive shaft angle is going suck way bad!!! front driveshaft will need cv's for more angle and be longer.. Possibly other mods will need to be made aswell
rhuarc31
Registered Member
Street rig or trail only? I've got 10 inches with a 52 inch spring swap up front and 6 inch lift springs and 7 inch shackles, and 6 inch 56's in the back with a shackle flip. Ride isn't too bad at all. But it's a trail only rig so my full hydro steering is fine. The 52's up front don't work so well for a street driven rig. For the brake lines you can save some money and fab up hardline extensions for a couple bucks, also use brake lines from a 2wd truck, they're longer from having to route around the control arms. On the street you're really gonna stiffen up your ride to get 12 inches of lift with springs, you could go the air bag route, supposed to give a better ride, dunno about trail manners though.
54inches
1/2 ton status
You want to use as little spring as possible. You can build a front spring hanger that gives you a few inches (call kert @ DIY4X) and then get the FUSH from ORD or Kert.
Let's say that is 3".
You can get Cutout Bushwackers for another 3" or more if ou do some cutting and mov the axle forward.
Also if you do the 52" front spring conversion, stock 52" net 4" of lift.
SOOOO....
lifted B52 w/ stock springs = 8"
Bushwackers = 3"
Zero Rate = 1"
This is basically a no spring lift that will let you run 44" anything on the front.
Now the back is a different story ie more spring.
4" shackle flip, lowered (closer to the ground) front spring hangers...... = 5"
Bushwackers= 3"
Spring lift = 4-6"
The rear lift depends on how you want the ruck to sit.
50% of people do not the look of the flares, so just substitute more spring lift instead.
I am sure this setup has about the same price point as an all spring lift, but I think you will have a better ride and it should articulate better, as a result.
I am a mudder, a trail rider, and a beach comber, so this is what I like.......
I hope this helps!
Let's say that is 3".
You can get Cutout Bushwackers for another 3" or more if ou do some cutting and mov the axle forward.
Also if you do the 52" front spring conversion, stock 52" net 4" of lift.
SOOOO....
lifted B52 w/ stock springs = 8"
Bushwackers = 3"
Zero Rate = 1"
This is basically a no spring lift that will let you run 44" anything on the front.
Now the back is a different story ie more spring.
4" shackle flip, lowered (closer to the ground) front spring hangers...... = 5"
Bushwackers= 3"
Spring lift = 4-6"
The rear lift depends on how you want the ruck to sit.
50% of people do not the look of the flares, so just substitute more spring lift instead.
I am sure this setup has about the same price point as an all spring lift, but I think you will have a better ride and it should articulate better, as a result.
I am a mudder, a trail rider, and a beach comber, so this is what I like.......
I hope this helps!
I run 8" superlift springs and they are really stiff so I wouldn't suggest their 12" kit as it is just 8" springs and a 4" block out back and 12" springs up front...
If you just want to slap some springs on I'd contact someone like Alcan and have them make you a set (going to be $$$) but I'm sure it would be a great quality spring...
That being said what Adam said above is really the best option...
If you just want to slap some springs on I'd contact someone like Alcan and have them make you a set (going to be $$$) but I'm sure it would be a great quality spring...
That being said what Adam said above is really the best option...
87 Blue Beast
1/2 ton status
its a street rig pretty much... i guess kinda like a weekend driver. i dont really care that much about the ride quality, so stiffness isnt a problem. i dont want to dump a ton of money into this, but i want to do it right. the 12" superlift kit is lookin like my best option so far. i want almost a bolt on.
Copasetic
1/2 ton status
I have a 12" superlift suspension on mine. It's truly bolt on. I pieced mine together though instead of buying the whole kit at once. One tip of advice though. Before you put it on, take those 3 inch blocks and throw them away, or sell them, and get a shackle flip for it. You'll end up doing it anyways so it might as well be done so you don't have to take the rear end down twice. Go ahead and get a zero rate for the rear too if you want the rear axle centered in the wheel well again. I literally just went through all of that and wish I had known about it all before hand. You're going to have to get the stell braided brake lines for it (pro comp is about $90-$100). I had to relocate my front brake line brackets from the side of the frame to the bottom because my brake lines had NO slack in them after the lift, they have plenty now. You're also going to have to have a cv put in your rear shaft as well as lengthen it some. If your wallet allows, go ahead and get an SYE kit before you get your drive shaft made. That will save you money too. Mine will have to wait, hopefully no later than tax season. Good luck with it!
87 Blue Beast said:
you will get a ticket every time you drive it in PA. There is a maximum bumper height along with lots of other inspection laws you will be breaking. not trying to be negative but you should research what you can and can't get away with.
I'll help in any way you would like when it come to the laws. I have a lot of them memorized from when I tried to drive my truck with 8" springs on the road. I got pulled over by every cop I passed.
read this until you have it memorized. you can't just add bigger bumpers. then they will measure to the frame. I learned that the hard way. I paid $700 for a 10" warn enforcer bumper to find out that my measured height was now worse.
http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/067/chapter175/s175.80.html
blazeonchevy
1/2 ton status
Well it is MUCH cheaper to piece a kit together. although it is more of a pita. I think just my lift came out to about 7-800. Then there were driveshafts (I only did the rear so far) tires, wheels, axles if you are changing them. mine was done minus the front driveshaft for around 2k.. Having friends that will give you deals or help you find parts helps alot though.
As for the ride quality.. What do you expect? its a foot of lift. But most of the time it really is bearable, It just depends on how smooth the roads are.
The only thing that I would HIGHLY suggest is that you do crossover. And by piecing the lift together that is doable for about the same price as the kit that comes with stock style steering parts.
Well I hope that helps. If you have more questions just ask
As for the ride quality.. What do you expect? its a foot of lift. But most of the time it really is bearable, It just depends on how smooth the roads are.
The only thing that I would HIGHLY suggest is that you do crossover. And by piecing the lift together that is doable for about the same price as the kit that comes with stock style steering parts.
Well I hope that helps. If you have more questions just ask
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
About your lift laws..Since i live in MASSACHUSETTS and am a Vehicle State Inspector for a living in mass..Yes lift laws are difficult.. But I have ways around that. Such as registering it as offroad equipment, or over 10,000 heavy duty commercial, or register it as recovery for the local police.. Normaly anything at about 38" tires and 8" of lift they wont pull you over here..but bigger is iffy... Get tractor trailer plates...
Just put common sense into it.. Get a bumper that puts driving lights low (actual driving lights -not spot lights or euro crap lights), get proper sized mud flaps (front and rear) , use proper lighting and reflectors on the bed and cab. Use common sense on speed and dont drive reclessly (its definitely not a race car), dont put huge loud pipes on the rig, and try not to have a wild paint job--to catch cops eye...keep everything low key..
Also dont keep an inch thick of mud on the truck or stuff hanging down.. Maintain the vehicle...
These are just reminders for whatever your driving...(i know we all know these things-its just a reminder- even with a BIG lifted truck!)
Just put common sense into it.. Get a bumper that puts driving lights low (actual driving lights -not spot lights or euro crap lights), get proper sized mud flaps (front and rear) , use proper lighting and reflectors on the bed and cab. Use common sense on speed and dont drive reclessly (its definitely not a race car), dont put huge loud pipes on the rig, and try not to have a wild paint job--to catch cops eye...keep everything low key..
Also dont keep an inch thick of mud on the truck or stuff hanging down.. Maintain the vehicle...
These are just reminders for whatever your driving...(i know we all know these things-its just a reminder- even with a BIG lifted truck!)
People keep mentioning ride quality...besides the lift a huge factor in that is what tires you run...my truck with my 35" BFG AT's compared to my truck with my 38.5" MT Baja Claw Bias Ply's is like day and night...so keep that in mind too...
he wants 12" lift but cheep. those dont go together at all. way to many mods to be done.
and forget stock style steering get crossover installed.
and forget stock style steering get crossover installed.
R
RIPPEDK5
Guest
Cross over steering is real nice, as is full hydraulic steering or hydraulic assit.. Super lift supplies the steering correction for the lift... Not everyone can afford to buy cross-over steering let alone the machine work on the knuckles or new knuckles that are needed or the swap of a steering box. So sometimes its not feasible to get such a setup. yeah maybe in the future fine.. But in the kit they supply most everything you need. (Shocks, brake lines, steerning, springs, etc.) and as far as axle wrap is concerned.. Thes springs are stiff and have almost zero movement..
Although a higher-tech steering would be a better solution maybe he should think about spending that money somewhere else.. Like his brakes, or driveshafts.. Since im down this route myself right now, there are more important things to figure out then whether or not he can turn the tires..
Need to think about bracing the frame in more than one place. Make the truck less heavy, by getting rid of uneeded things in your truck..
If you plan to run big tires like I am then you need all the axle life you can get.. Im not a rockcrawler and never will be, maybe he isnt either.
Although a higher-tech steering would be a better solution maybe he should think about spending that money somewhere else.. Like his brakes, or driveshafts.. Since im down this route myself right now, there are more important things to figure out then whether or not he can turn the tires..
Need to think about bracing the frame in more than one place. Make the truck less heavy, by getting rid of uneeded things in your truck..
If you plan to run big tires like I am then you need all the axle life you can get.. Im not a rockcrawler and never will be, maybe he isnt either.
87 Blue Beast
1/2 ton status
no... im not an offroader. my truck is a mall crawler 
. in my opinion, its in too good of shape to beat it like that. i already thought about the steering. im just giona get a steering box brace and use what comes with the kit. i will probably upgrade later then. where exactally would you suggest bracing the frame?
. in my opinion, its in too good of shape to beat it like that. i already thought about the steering. im just giona get a steering box brace and use what comes with the kit. i will probably upgrade later then. where exactally would you suggest bracing the frame?
54inches
1/2 ton status
you could box the frame all the way down, but seeing that this is going to be on-road, I would just get the ORD frame brace & repair kit.
Also, if you lift your truck the way I suggested, it will give you ALOT better ride and it should be a tad bit cheaper.
ALL springs is going to be like riding a POGO stick.
Just my .02....
Also, if you lift your truck the way I suggested, it will give you ALOT better ride and it should be a tad bit cheaper.
ALL springs is going to be like riding a POGO stick.
Just my .02....
87 Blue Beast
1/2 ton status
well im deffinatally not cutting the body, so no bushwackers. i really dont like body lifts, so im probably goina stay away from them. i may do a shackle flip to eliminate the rear block tho..
