bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'd stay away from the one wire alternators, since it was asked about earlier. Those just bypass the voltage sensor which is a useful thing to have on a charging system.
CK5
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Bigger alternator/dual batt suggestions
- Thread starter wetoolowdingbangow
- Start date
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ok sweet thanks! Im the same way...want a little room to grow.
Ok thanks! The summit alt says you can do 3 wires. Does anyone over drive anymore? Im going to see if i can find some data on the summit alts output at lower rpm.
I'd just do a stock CS144 and add a second battery. I used to always have trouble staying charged between my stereo and electric fans, even with a GM commercial large case 100+amp alt.
After doing my 6L swap, that bone stock alternator has no trouble keeping up everything.
And I'm not a fan of battery isolators either. Nothing I have or have ever worked on uses them. Two group 24's paired together is a fair amount of storage. You can always go marine too, if you are really winching a lot and will pull them down/charge back up cycles.
After doing my 6L swap, that bone stock alternator has no trouble keeping up everything.
And I'm not a fan of battery isolators either. Nothing I have or have ever worked on uses them. Two group 24's paired together is a fair amount of storage. You can always go marine too, if you are really winching a lot and will pull them down/charge back up cycles.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ok sounds good to me!
Looking at the first pulley on the page here...pretty cheap. Im not going to spend too much time over 3000rpm. Shouldnt hurt anything even if you did for short periods of time?
http://www.cpgenerator.com/overdrivepulleys.html
Shouldn't, but just verify the maximum speed of the alternator to ensure that the overdrive won't spin it too fast. With these trucks RPM usually isn't going to be an issue.
I retrofitted a 140 amp CS144 onto my 6.2 diesel years ago. The truck has factory dual batteries with no isolators or anything like that, just a battery cable running between the two of them. I guess there could be some advantages to having isolators and such but I haven't found any real need for them on my off-road truck. When winching it's pretty easy to tell when you are sucking down the battery power because the winch slows down, so I just stop winching for a minute or two and let the battery fill back up. I did run a heavier cable between the alternator and battery. Also splurged for the harness adaptor for like $10 to plug in the alternator, and didn't need the extra resistor because mine already had the battery light in the dash. The other thing I will say is that the V-belt seems to struggle under a high load on the alternator like when winching. I have to keep the pulley's cleaned up, a fresh belt, and keep it really tight to avoid the belt slipping and squealing.
Well, with a diesel, the two batteries are there in parallel to supply the extra current needed to spin the engine over faster.
If you left the lights on, or winched too long, you would wind up with a dead battery.
The idea behind most isolators, is to have a charged battery in reserve that will not be run down.
On my old Ford truck, I split the electrical system in two. One, high current battery did nothing but crank the engine. It was completely isolated from the rest of the truck.
The other battery, a high capacity battery ran everything else.
They both charged off the alternator.
I could forget and leave my lights on over the whole weekend, listen to the radio all night, whatever, and never have to worry about the truck not cranking. The cranking battery was always hot and never ran down.
I did manage to run the other battery down so low it would not fire the starter solenoid once.
Since they were both using a common ground, I just jumped myself off with a single jumper cable.
After that, I ran a heavy battery cable from one positive post to the other with a heavy duty Ford starter solenoid in between.
I used a spring loaded switch to fire it.
If I ever ran the battery that low again, I could just hold the switch to the "on" position and crank the truck.
If you left the lights on, or winched too long, you would wind up with a dead battery.
The idea behind most isolators, is to have a charged battery in reserve that will not be run down.
On my old Ford truck, I split the electrical system in two. One, high current battery did nothing but crank the engine. It was completely isolated from the rest of the truck.
The other battery, a high capacity battery ran everything else.
They both charged off the alternator.
I could forget and leave my lights on over the whole weekend, listen to the radio all night, whatever, and never have to worry about the truck not cranking. The cranking battery was always hot and never ran down.
I did manage to run the other battery down so low it would not fire the starter solenoid once.
Since they were both using a common ground, I just jumped myself off with a single jumper cable.
After that, I ran a heavy battery cable from one positive post to the other with a heavy duty Ford starter solenoid in between.
I used a spring loaded switch to fire it.
If I ever ran the battery that low again, I could just hold the switch to the "on" position and crank the truck.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Ok will do. Thanks!
Cool! cs144 it is then! Do you know where you got the harness adapter?
Mind blown.
Thats an excellent way of going about two batteries. I like it a lot. Ill look into doing the same thing!
Im curious if the cs144 is bolt on or do i need a different bracket?
