Biggest tire?

[RIPPEDK5]

I just finished installing my steering on my k20 and installed a 4"-6" raised horseshoe steering arm, 4"-6" lowered adjustable center link (drag link) and 3 inch raised steering block. What im really wondering first is on a factory 10 bolt (no mods) whats is the steering and ball joint life/limitations? I was also told by a guy that my springs are going to flex before my tires turn (38.5 gumbo's for now and over 18" of lift)? Lastly, how much can a factory steering pump/steering box take ( as far as lift and tire size) before they actually explode/break/leak/create massive play?

appreciate the insight.

 

[ryoken]

Sounds like someone in need of crossover...

 

[RIPPEDK5]

Cross over steering would be nice but its out of my budget range and it requires either new knuckles, 2wd steering box, machining of old knuckles or some bolt on gizmo crap.. and not to mention i just installed my steering after buying the parts.. most of my budget is gone aswell from the brand new 355 motor, brand new TH350, brand new lift kit, and steering, wiring..I kinda need to keep what i got. Im just wondering about these questons I asked, anyone?...

Thanks for the reply though

 

[sandawgk5]

1. They will wear out faster. How much I dont know.

2. Not sure what you are asking. With stock steering when you flex the front it will cause the tires to turn on their own due to the steering geometry maybe that is what he was refering.

3. I dont think the box would give out but it will (as well as the pump) be trying to do a lot of work to turn 38s in the pushpull configuration.

If you are stuck with this kind of steering run and replace as it goes then you will know and once you have done that you will realize just how cheap crossover is in the long run.

Dont forget to install the weld in and bolt in steering box brace. I would not be surprised if you rip the box off the first time out with that setup you have.

Ira

 

[bandit4369]

Cross over steering would be nice but its out of my budget range and it requires either new knuckles, 2wd steering box, machining of old knuckles or some bolt on gizmo crap.. and not to mention i just installed my steering after buying the parts.. most of my budget is gone aswell from the brand new 355 motor, brand new TH350, brand new lift kit, and steering, wiring..I kinda need to keep what i got. Im just wondering about these questons I asked, anyone?...

Thanks for the reply though

Kind of put your cart before the horse. Building a truck/K5 is kind of like building a pyramid, you need a good solid base to build off of /\. If you start with the pinical first \/ it's eventually going to fall over on you. All that money you spent was just pi$$ed away if you break the frame or roll it over because you didn't take care of the basics, not to mention hurting/killing yourself or someone else. I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, just make you see Ryoken and SandawgK5 raise valid points, there are some issues you need to address whether you like it or not.
K5 is a good sight and there's a lot of experience and info here, learn from others mistakes and exprience. You'll be money ahead.

 

[mrk5]

Yes, if only I'd found this site a year earlier than I did.

 

[gmc4cw]

I just finished installing my steering on my k20 and installed a 4"-6" raised horseshoe steering arm, 4"-6" lowered adjustable center link (drag link) and 3 inch raised steering block. What im really wondering first is on a factory 10 bolt (no mods) whats is the steering and ball joint life/limitations? I was also told by a guy that my springs are going to flex before my tires turn (38.5 gumbo's for now and over 18" of lift)? Lastly, how much can a factory steering pump/steering box take ( as far as lift and tire size) before they actually explode/break/leak/create massive play?

appreciate the insight.

take all the standard push-pull steering components and sell them on Ebay. Get yourself a crossover setup. yes it's more money, it's also your life. with 18" of lift you want to be able to turn the truck. Brace the frame cause you will rip the box right off. I have done it. the 10 bolt will not survive long running 38" tires.

Why do you have 18" of lift anyways? Thats a lot of lift just to clear 38's. How is that lift accomplished? 3" body then the rest in suspension? with that kind of height there are tons of things that need to be addressed along with the steering.

 

[87BrnRsd]

More important than the steering are the 10 bolt axles (namely the rear). A 10 bolt rear will not hold up to 38.5" tires. I know the last thing you want is a broken shaft and losing a 38.5" tire while driving down the road.

BTW- Why 18" of lift? If your running mud that deep, then you need more than 38.5's anyway. If your running rocks...your not gonna flex and will be way way too top heavy.
-Harrison

 

[RIPPEDK5]

Thanks for the reply..

To answer some of your questions...

1) I have a K20 with a 14bolt full floater in the rear, So I doubt ill break that with 38's.

2)As far as I was refering to front spring twist when trying to turn the tires (meaning the springs are going to twist from leverage before the tires turn)

3) the steering brace I will definetely do

and 18" of lift....No body lift...mosty all springs (all springs in front with about 1" of lift from longer shackles)

the rear has 10" rear springs, 4" blocks, and an Offroad Design 4" shackle reversal with there optional slightly longer beefed p shackles...

4) 38.5 x 15.5 x 16.5's are what I can afford until I (only $300 from my buddy) can get either my tractor tires/turf tires/ or 49's..

5) also the idea was to get 2.5 ton Rockwells and hydraulic steering so kinda the though of spending the money when i didnt have to seemed like a waste.

Appreciate the replys!