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.bin File Question?

1-ton

1-ton

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My truck is a 1991 V3500 with a 5.7 engine, 4L80E trans, and stock 4.10 gears. I got Tuner Pro R/T and some .bin files installed on my lap top, and I have a question about what .bin file I should use. These are the two .bin files I have to choose from:

1. FILE NAME: AXXZ 91 G-P-R-V Truck 5.7 TBI 4L80E with 4.10 or 4.56 gears.bin
2. FILE NAME: BAJW 91 G-P-R-V Truck 5.7 TBI 4L80E with 4.10 or 4.56 gears.bin

I am guessing the first four letters of the file names are some kind of data codes that is listed on the attached sticker of my ECM...would this be correct?
 
I would check your ECM number before using either of those. I thought 91 5.7 4L80 was a different ECM and bin from either of those.
 
Those codes are normally called Broadcast Codes (BCC).

I think you've got it right. No idea what would have been different with the same drivetrain combo's, but I haven't dug into much except TPI. It may have been the GVWR, or even body (crew cab vs. suburban, G or P, etc).

Unless you can find the exact application for each of those .bins, you can load one up in Tunerpro, then select "compare bins" (or is it compare tool?), and use the other bin, and see what is different.

Based on your other thread, those are the correct .bins for the 7060 PCM.
 
dyeager535 said:
Those codes are normally called Broadcast Codes (BCC).

I think you've got it right. No idea what would have been different with the same drivetrain combo's, but I haven't dug into much except TPI. It may have been the GVWR, or even body (crew cab vs. suburban, G or P, etc).

Unless you can find the exact application for each of those .bins, you can load one up in Tunerpro, then select "compare bins" (or is it compare tool?), and use the other bin, and see what is different.

Based on your other thread, those are the correct .bins for the 7060 PCM.
Click to expand...

I wish I had taken a picture of the sticker on my ECM the last time I had it out. Now I have to go back, remove the glove box, then the bracket holding my ECM in, pull out the ECM far enough to get a flash light in there to see the Broad Casting Code, and then put it all back together again. Thanks for the reply.
 
1-ton said:
I wish I had taken a picture of the sticker on my ECM the last time I had it out. Now I have to go back, remove the glove box, then the bracket holding my ECM in, pull out the ECM far enough to get a flash light in there to see the Broad Casting Code, and then put it all back together again. Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

When I swapped mine in, I made sure the harness was long enough to be able to get the ECM out a bit. Still a PITA to plug in though when it's in the holder...I try to disconnect it if I'm welding on the rig.
 
Well none of the BCC codes on my .BIN files matched. My BCC is AWBP. I have done some searching for a .BIN file with this code, and cannot find anything even on Gear Head EFI's BCC search engine. Will my other .BIN files I have work any way?
 
A member of Gear Head EFI told me that the .BIN files I have are correct because they are the superseded .BIN files for my broadcast code AWBP.
 
dyeager535 said:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj63d29o4TUAhXixFQKHetBAYwQFgg7MAM&url=http://gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-efi/doc/BCC%20lookup.xls&usg=AFQjCNHUpfF2Dl3UulFD72lRgFJTXtcW6w&sig2=lSjMQPX9ds8sCZJ83slxnA
That work? BCC Find. I see yours on there.

I don't know how to tell if one superseded another though unfortunately.
Click to expand...

That is an interesting link.

On Gear Head EFI user name (dave w) replied: "AWBP has been superseded to AXXZ which is superseded to BAJW".

I have the .BIN file with both BCC code AXXZ and BAJW listed in above post.
 
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Unfortunately if you can't find AWBP it's impossible to see what GM had changed when it was superseded. I would *suspect* that unless there was some recall where GM changed the cam or something major along those lines which is highly unlikely, the changes were simply to address some small quirk(s) or provide for improvements in the overall operation. Being a PCM, that could involve even something to do with trans operation.

I've seen it posted before that it's best to start with the latest BCC released, which makes perfect sense, so in that regard you are in good shape. But without being able to compare the old and new, you have no idea what potential benefit could come from the newer one. I wouldn't sweat that too much, it's not going to make it massively better. :)
 
I got the Tuner Pro R/T to start acquiring data from my 7060 ECM/PCM. It took about 1-1/2 hrs to load the Tuner Pro R/T, drivers, .ADX File, .XDF File, .BIN File, configure ports, and connect my data cable. I feel like a baby learning to crawl with this stuff. Next step is to use Tuner Pro R/T to test my MAP, in order to see if it has any dead spots in it.
 
1-ton said:
I got the Tuner Pro R/T to start acquiring data from my 7060 ECM/PCM. It took about 1-1/2 hrs to load the Tuner Pro R/T, drivers, .ADX File, .XDF File, .BIN File, configure ports, and connect my data cable. I feel like a baby learning to crawl with this stuff. Next step is to use Tuner Pro R/T to test my MAP, in order to see if it has any dead spots in it.
Click to expand...

You going to datalog and review the data?

I actually prefer to export to excel (.csv) to review the file, but others seem to like the replay feature where you can watch the data "lines" over time.

I hooked mine up this weekend and ran it probably 500 miles. Towing a trailer up some massive hills for prolonged periods of time, new engine appears to be taxing the radiator, so should be some interesting data. Was also relatively hot (90's) so got a chance to work on a hot restart problem that was giving me fits but never got a chance to experience enough to make changes and know if they worked...took out 6* of timing for hot restart, problem solved!

Haven't looked at the data yet, but that is the part I enjoy.
 
dyeager535 said:
You going to datalog and review the data?
Click to expand...

Eventually I will. Some of the tutorials on Tuner Pro are lacking somewhat. I was reading a couple of different tutorials on Data logging, and it said that I first needed to create a "Log File" to start Data Logging, but did not mention how to do that. After a some searching on the Internet, I found a post where someone had the same question...how do I create a Log file to start Data Logging with Tuner Pro R/T? Someone replied that when you click the "Record" button on the Tuner Pro menu for the first time it opens a dialog box that says "create log file", then just select the "yes" box, and then name the file in the "file name" field. Why couldn't the tutorials have bothered to mention that fact? I guess it is all part of the frustration and effort it takes to learn how to use Tuner Pro.
 
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The first tool I am going to use in Tuner Pro R/T is the "Show Data List" menu. The Show Data List menu shows you what all your sensors are doing. I want to use that to test my MAP sensor. I am going to connect my vacuum pump to my MAP sensor, and then watch the voltage output as I pull a vacuum load down on it. I want to see if the voltage drops to zero at any point of the vacuum load to see if my MAP has a dead spot indicating that I have a bad MAP sensor. I also want to use the Show Data List menu to adjust my IAC sensor with in specification. In the Show Data List menu there is an "IAC Position" output to see what your IAC is set at, but I do not know what values I am looking for in the "IAC Position" output field. Would you happen to know what value range I need to set my IAC at?

The "IAC Position" field looks like this: 00 IAC Postion.

The two zero's in front would be the IAC value output.
 
I never had to make a log file, some of what you may find may be old info from previous versions. IIRC the leap from TP4 to 5 had a lot of changes to the way things worked, which were big improvements.

My process is: get Tunerpro linked up with the ECM, so you can see the data stream, click record. When you click stop a window will open up asking you to name the file (which is all the data you just recorded). Name the file, click save or ok, whatever it says, and if it's a large file (long time period of recording), you'll see a progress bar (if it's labeled, it's got small writing and I didn't notice) in the lower left corner of the TP5 window advance from left to right as it converts or builds the file, whatever it's doing. I *think* for the playback feature no conversion needs done, you just select that file. If you want a spreadsheet, you'll have to select another option in one of the drop down menu's up top (tools?). I'm not at my laptop so I can't check.

I see 34-45 at idle here for IAC step counts: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/papers/747iac.txt

I don't pay much attention to where the IAC is, if it's malfunctioning, I don't see how you wouldn't know. The "choke" air function is handled by the IAC, if IAC had problems, you'd see it at startup, plus idle.
 
dyeager535 said:
I never had to make a log file, some of what you may find may be old info from previous versions. IIRC the leap from TP4 to 5 had a lot of changes to the way things worked, which were big improvements.

My process is: get Tunerpro linked up with the ECM, so you can see the data stream, click record. When you click stop a window will open up asking you to name the file (which is all the data you just recorded). Name the file, click save or ok, whatever it says, and if it's a large file (long time period of recording), you'll see a progress bar (if it's labeled, it's got small writing and I didn't notice) in the lower left corner of the TP5 window advance from left to right as it converts or builds the file, whatever it's doing. I *think* for the playback feature no conversion needs done, you just select that file. If you want a spreadsheet, you'll have to select another option in one of the drop down menu's up top (tools?). I'm not at my laptop so I can't check.

I see 34-45 at idle here for IAC step counts: http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/papers/747iac.txt

I don't pay much attention to where the IAC is, if it's malfunctioning, I don't see how you wouldn't know. The "choke" air function is handled by the IAC, if IAC had problems, you'd see it at startup, plus idle.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the Data logging file, and the IAC step count. I have read that when getting the IAC step count in range all that needs to be done is adjust the idle screw until the IAC step counts are in specified range. That is an interesting link you posted. It has some interesting points on setting IAC counts for an engine with a performance cam in it. I am not sure if my cam is high performance enough for the alternate IAC step counts it recommends.
 
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When we converted my Dads 454 over to TBI, it wouldn't idle well. Did the minimum air setting process and it smoothed right out.

It is/was more involved than screwing with the idle screw, which is really a throttle stop.

"2. IAC reset/min idle speed- This sets the throttle plate on the throttle body to a specific rpm. It should be set to 100-125 RPM below idle commanded in bin file. At ALDL connector you need to put a jumper between pins A and B of the connector. These are pins A9 (what/blk) and A12 (blk/wht) on the ECM. This puts the ECM into ALDL mode. Turn the key on (not start) and the IAC should drive completely closed. You will normally hear a buzzing from the IAC. If you have the TunerPro running up and running on your laptop, or a Scan Tool you should see the IAC went from 145 to 0. Now unplug the IAC connector. Turn the key off. Remove jumper. Start motor. If the idle is too low you may have to keep it running. On the front drivers side of the throttle body is the adjustment screw. It will probably be behind a silver plug. If so just use a drill bit slowly to drill a hole, not to deep as to damage the torx screw behind it, just enough to use a punch to grab it and remove it. Then use a #20 torx bit to adjust the idle speed to at least 100 rpm less then your warm idle speed in bin. If 600 then set to 500 rpm. You are looking for the lowest consistent idle your motor will do. When set, turn off motor and reconnect the IAC. I try to keep the IAC count to at least 10-20 with the motor warm and idling. Higher number are OK but more air pushing gas past throttle blades on TBI engines is better!"

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-In...tems-Min-Air-Adjust-TPS-set-and-Fuel-Pressure
 
dyeager535 said:
When we converted my Dads 454 over to TBI, it wouldn't idle well. Did the minimum air setting process and it smoothed right out.

It is/was more involved than screwing with the idle screw, which is really a throttle stop.

"2. IAC reset/min idle speed- This sets the throttle plate on the throttle body to a specific rpm. It should be set to 100-125 RPM below idle commanded in bin file. At ALDL connector you need to put a jumper between pins A and B of the connector. These are pins A9 (what/blk) and A12 (blk/wht) on the ECM. This puts the ECM into ALDL mode. Turn the key on (not start) and the IAC should drive completely closed. You will normally hear a buzzing from the IAC. If you have the TunerPro running up and running on your laptop, or a Scan Tool you should see the IAC went from 145 to 0. Now unplug the IAC connector. Turn the key off. Remove jumper. Start motor. If the idle is too low you may have to keep it running. On the front drivers side of the throttle body is the adjustment screw. It will probably be behind a silver plug. If so just use a drill bit slowly to drill a hole, not to deep as to damage the torx screw behind it, just enough to use a punch to grab it and remove it. Then use a #20 torx bit to adjust the idle speed to at least 100 rpm less then your warm idle speed in bin. If 600 then set to 500 rpm. You are looking for the lowest consistent idle your motor will do. When set, turn off motor and reconnect the IAC. I try to keep the IAC count to at least 10-20 with the motor warm and idling. Higher number are OK but more air pushing gas past throttle blades on TBI engines is better!"

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-In...tems-Min-Air-Adjust-TPS-set-and-Fuel-Pressure
Click to expand...

I tried do that a few weeks ago, and it did not work. Every time I started my truck without the AIC not plugged in it just went to 1200 RPM, and no amount of adjustment changed anything. My engine is idling fine, I just want to make sure all my sensors are at peak performance.
 
Did you by any chance try without putting it into ALDL mode?

Not sure what bad could come from adjusting the screw, I know on TPI putting it into ALDL bumps up the idle and timing, which needed changing to not have "false readings" of what was actually going on in the .bin, particularly at idle and low engine speeds.
 
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