blazer won't run- resolved

[solace22]

Pulling codes now. got distributor one and coolant temp one. Standby.

Code 12 and 24.
vss ain't hooked up.

DTC - 12 No distributor reference pulse (diagnostic test active)
I know I got the temp one, not showing now...

mine did not flash anything 3 times to let it know it was communicating.
it flashed CEL once then went on to the codes, each code two times.

edit2: after reading DTC 12 is normal. ugh!

 

[solace22]

ALRIGHT I got it running.
I knew it was something stupid simple, I knew it.
I had read and read on google, one thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288574
this fellow had the exact same issue. So I figured i would mess with the temp sensor. I wiggled the wire just a little bit and it fired right up and ran smooth as can be.
Now, If I pop that sensor out is my coolant going to pour out too? (presuming so) I figure ill swap it out and clean up the contact etc.

 

[dyeager535]

Yeah it will let some coolant out. Not foolproof, but I normally use a small hose into the radiator to siphon out coolant into containers, hoping the block drains down. Doesn't always work to get it out of the block, but its better than spilling that stuff all over.

CTS is one of the few that will hurt startup, one reason a scantool/ALDL cable is invaluable. You can see what the CTS is reporting, along with MPA, TPS, O2, etc. At least you figured it out without cost to you.

Pay real close attention on the connector. I've had the metal locking tang on the terminal break off, and while it looked like contact was good, the terminal/wire would lift up just a hair as you seated the connector and break contact. Tough one to track down. Make sure the terminals on the CTS aren't loose either. The CTS is a pretty rugged piece internally.

 

[solace22]

Yeah it will let some coolant out. Not foolproof, but I normally use a small hose into the radiator to siphon out coolant into containers, hoping the block drains down. Doesn't always work to get it out of the block, but its better than spilling that stuff all over.

CTS is one of the few that will hurt startup, one reason a scantool/ALDL cable is invaluable. You can see what the CTS is reporting, along with MPA, TPS, O2, etc. At least you figured it out without cost to you.

Pay real close attention on the connector. I've had the metal locking tang on the terminal break off, and while it looked like contact was good, the terminal/wire would lift up just a hair as you seated the connector and break contact. Tough one to track down. Make sure the terminals on the CTS aren't loose either. The CTS is a pretty rugged piece internally.

well i was thinking of changing out the water pump just for kicks, its all rusted up looking and it all could probably use a flush anyhow. Im sooo glad it was something simple. I will check the connection etc asap. Thanks for your help btw!

 

[dyeager535]

Wish I had been right lol! Well, not really, at least it was easy.

Clear hose works good so you don't get a mouth full of antifreeze if you go that route. I plan to put a ball valve on the radiator drain nipple to make draining easier.

 

[solace22]

Wish I had been right lol! Well, not really, at least it was easy.

Clear hose works good so you don't get a mouth full of antifreeze if you go that route. I plan to put a ball valve on the radiator drain nipple to make draining easier.

Good idea!

 

[paratrooper307]

Wish I had been right lol! Well, not really, at least it was easy.

Clear hose works good so you don't get a mouth full of antifreeze if you go that route. I plan to put a ball valve on the radiator drain nipple to make draining easier.

One of those cheap fluid pumps from Harbor Freight or others has done well for me. Just pump the radiator dry and you can do anything you need to do on the engine.

 

[solace22]

One of those cheap fluid pumps from Harbor Freight or others has done well for me. Just pump the radiator dry and you can do anything you need to do on the engine.

That's a good idea. Need to go to HR anyhow.