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bleeding brakes when they are bone dry

GsxrMike

GsxrMike

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All my lines and MC are empty of fluid. I have one line that needs fixing and one line to install and I will be ready to fill them with fluid. I don't know much about bleeding brakes and I know nothing about what to do with a system that is totally dry. I searched but there are so many threads about bleeding brakes I couldn't find one addressing my issue. How do I do it and how much fluid do you think I will need? Don't know if it matters but I have rear disk brake (DIY4X) on a 14bff and D44 front with a stock MC. Thanks! Oh yeah the ol' girl doesn't quite run yet (she does but I stole the carb for another truck) Do I need it running or can I do it without? Thanks again!
 
if it is bone dry, I would open all the bleeders and see if you can get fluid to granity bleed, then once done, proceed with normal bleeding.

But that doesn't always work on the rear.
 
Yes, try gravity bleeding them. Like said, just fill the m/c with fluid and open all of your bleeders. When you get a good drip out of each one, close it. You might get by without having to pump bleed them, but I'd test it after the gravity bleed.
 
A step above gravity bleeding would be to use a vaccum pump, like a Mityvac. Thats always been the fastest way for me to do it.

If you do end up doing the pump/hold method. Only pump once, then open the bleeder. You can wear out the master cylinder by pumping several times.
 
You can wear out the master cylinder by pumping several times.
Click to expand...

Only if you let it run dry.

No matter what method you use to bleed them, keep the master cylinder fluid level up so you don't introduce air into the system otherwise you just wasted all the time you spent bleeding them (and the fluid).
 
On new systems I always use a vacuum pump to get fluid at all 4 corners. Then crack all the bleeders and let them gravity bleed for a min or so. Then on to the pumping the peddle to finish them off. Has always worked.
 
When the system is bone dry I always bleed the master cylinder first by pulling the lines off the mc, fill the fluid and have someone slowly push the brake pedal down (watch your paint) once the pedal is down hold your fingers over the holes. Continue this until a steady stream comes out. Hold the pedal down and connect the lines. Crack one bleeder in the rear, have someone push the pedal down, not pump just push, when it's down hold your finger over the bleeder. Continue until you have a decent stream. Go to the other rear bleeder. Then do the front the same way. After you have a good stream in the front, pump up the brakes, hold firm then crack the rear bleeder. Bleed each bleeder until there is no air at all.

Hope this helps.
 
I think I have brakes! Won't know for sure until I finish steering, carb, tranny fluid and linkage, and at least one driveshaft! Thanks guys!
 
For a drained system back bleeding works best.
Remember air goes up in fluids.

Cheap method is a jug of fluid and a pump.
Crack a bleeder and install hose over it. Pump until fluid starts to flow into the master.
go to the next one and so on.
Works great for hydro clutches as well.
 
About that back bleeding- So you pump the peddle while teh MC is dry waiting for the fliud to be sucked into the reservoirs of the MC? Seems you could do a reverse power bleed this way. Put a hose on the end of a low pressure yard sprayer filled with brake fluid and the other end on the bleeder valve and have someone push and hold the pedal down, then build the pressure up in the sprayer and force the fluid through to the MC, Once it's filled it shouldn't take much to finish the job.

Power bleeding is what I have to do to get a good pedal.
 
The hold your finger over the bleeder thing I wouldn't trust. Sometimes the air can pass by the threads of the bleeder so each time you let off the pedal it'd could potentially suck air back past the threads.
 
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