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Bleeding hydraulic clutch, no clutch fork movement

Yukon Jack

Yukon Jack

1/2 ton status
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Rose Hill, KS
I tried to bleed the hydraulic clutch from an 89 1 ton that I am using on my 69 K20. I am getting fluid to bleed out as directed by the repair manual and am no longer getting air bubbles. However, I am getting no movement of the clutch fork. This setup is a complete swap to my 69 as I am using the 89's 454, bellhousing, clutch fork, slave and master. Installation of the slave and a new clutch and throw out bearing were in September of 2003 while the truck has been dismantled, so it has set for about 10 months.

A friend recommended disconnecting the slave from the bellhousing to see if the push rod will move without the clutch pressure. Another option would be to try to manually move the clutch fork to see if that helps.

Any suggestions before I do anything?
 
remove the slave, put it on a 45* angle with the bleeder at the top. THen repeat the bleeding process. My friend was having the same problem(he had movement but very little) and he did that, bam full clutch.
 
do it as stated by sled dog. with it mounted in there you can never get it bleed right. I worked on one for hours before we went to pick up a power bleeder and the guy there said to unhook it and do it that way and it was done in a half hour.
 
Excellent - will get it done hopefully tomorrow morning and let you all know. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
My variation to bleed the system for single person bleeding is this:

Disconnect slave, hold with bleeder facing up, with cylinder at 45*. Have the reservoir about half full, since it really won't hold much when you are done and put the cap on.

Loosen the bleeder, and push the pushrod in with your hand, as far as it will go. Close bleeder, release rod. Repeat. Took me about 4 times of that before I got pedal, but the system already had fluid in the lower half, so it might take a bit longer.

Additionally, let me make clear that the cap is off the reservoir when doing the above. Not sure if it really matters the way the rubber "boot" is on the MC cap, but can't hurt to leave it off.
 
I did about the same thing... Pumping the slave cylinder push rod by hand seemed to be the trick for me. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
OK I was trying to bleed mine today the same way mentioned above, but my peddle goes half waz up and stays there when its relised.and it onlz moves about 1/4 inch. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif any ideas
 
sounds like your master cylinder may be crap. Even if there is no fluid the MC should be forcing the pedal back.
 
Have had same problem on an 87 K5. Fix was to do all the conventional bleeding process to remove the air. When system shows no sign of air get ahold of the clutch pedel by hand and pump it as fast as you can for maybe 3 to 5 min.The slave cylinder will eventually start to move the full distance. I have seen this work several times. It does not make much sense but you might try it!!
 
Well I bleed it with a pump today and was doing the same thing. then after watching the peddle we relized that the bar between the peddle and the mc is bending and not going in. so after I bent it staight, it works fine now. tomarrow Ill buy a new bar since I dont trust that one anymore. Thanks for the help /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
The very first thing to check and almost always forgotten is the free pedal travel. This is the distance that the pedal moves before the pushrod makes contact with the M/C piston. Once that is checked and adjusted then the slave cylinder free play needs to be checked and adjusted. This is done by adjusting the length of the pushrod between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder piston. You need to make sure the T/O bearing is making slight contact with the pressure plate when making this adjustment. Finally you can start to bleed the system. Also make sure you have a return spring for the clutch pedal and also one for the clutch fork. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
none of that is adjustable on the OEM hydro clutch parts that I have used in my truck
 
I have never seen a hydraulic clutch that did not have any of those pieces adjustable. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Clutch master for sure is not adjustable stock.

Got an aftermarket one that was, but not stock.
 
I'm talking about the rod from clutch pedal to clutch M/C piston. That AFAIK are all adjustable just like the one for your brake M/C.
 
I went out Friday and still did not having any success bleeding the system after pulling the slave and bleeding it at a 45 degree angle. I will try the pump the pedal for 3 - 5 minutes suggestion as I am relatively sure I have all the air out of the system. It worked fine befoe the engine swap so I just must not be doing something right.
 
I hate to sound like an idiot, but I had no luck bleeding myne until I bleed it for a while, then mounted it and bleed it some more. we concluded that you need to bleed it while mounted (?) /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
 
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