I'm sure there are other ways, but this was the easiest I've found, thought I'd share what worked for me. My setup was already together and being used, but the slave cylinder failed. I can't think of an easier way to do this job, by yourself, without any additional tools. This looks long, but I was done in 30 minutes from start to finish, and I am in no way fast at this stuff.
Remove cap on reservoir.
Put pan under work area, and if wanted, connect a drain hose to the bleeder.
Loosen hydraulic line at the slave while it's still bolted up if you have clearance to reach it. Snug it so it doesn't leak.
Remove two nuts holding slave to bellhousing.
Pull slave free of bellhousing, let it hang down.
Open bleeder or disconnect hydraulic line, your choice.
Tip slave so bleeder/hose end of slave is down, until fluid stops coming out for the most part.
Disconnect hose from slave, remove slave.
Loosen bleeder on new slave, then finger tighten.
Start hydraulic hose onto slave, but do not tighten.
Install slave onto bellhousing and just start the two nuts on the studs.
Tighten hydraulic hose fitting. (this makes sure you don't fight the hose twisting later, just convenience IMO)
Remove two nuts, remove slave from bellhousing, let it hang.
Fill reservoir to the top with brake fluid.
Turn slave at a 45* angle so bleeder is highest point. Crack bleeder (remember, finger tight?) and compress slave pushrod by hand. Tighten bleeder. Let go of pushrod. Repeat.
Check reservoir for fluid level. Replenish as necessary.
Repeat bleed process until fluid comes out the bleeder when pushrod is compressed and bleeder is opened.
Tighten bleeder with wrench, replace slave on bellhousing.
Make sure reservoir has enough fluid.
Check pedal operation with truck running, make sure you have clutch.
Few thoughts on this...I think it's a good idea to use grease or anti-seize on the bleeder and hydraulic hose fittings...both were corroded on mine quite well, after only 10 years, grease would have made it a bit easier to take apart, especially since the nut initially wouldn't spin on the hose.
Gravity bleeding doesn't seem to work. I tried, no fluid seemed to get through the master without suction on the slave side. Odd, as the reservoir drained fine when I removed the old slave.
The slave REALLY doesn't take any effort to compress. My new (Dorman branded) slave has the boot/pushrod captured, so you don't have to worry about holding all the pieces together. That was nice.
I did this with long tube headers. Really no problem with access. No idea how manifolds or shorties might complicate maneuvering the slave around.
Sorry, no pics, but I was actually trying to get this done. Don't ask how long the "oil change" took, or how much it cost.
Thought for sure the slave would have had more hiccups.
Remove cap on reservoir.
Put pan under work area, and if wanted, connect a drain hose to the bleeder.
Loosen hydraulic line at the slave while it's still bolted up if you have clearance to reach it. Snug it so it doesn't leak.
Remove two nuts holding slave to bellhousing.
Pull slave free of bellhousing, let it hang down.
Open bleeder or disconnect hydraulic line, your choice.
Tip slave so bleeder/hose end of slave is down, until fluid stops coming out for the most part.
Disconnect hose from slave, remove slave.
Loosen bleeder on new slave, then finger tighten.
Start hydraulic hose onto slave, but do not tighten.
Install slave onto bellhousing and just start the two nuts on the studs.
Tighten hydraulic hose fitting. (this makes sure you don't fight the hose twisting later, just convenience IMO)
Remove two nuts, remove slave from bellhousing, let it hang.
Fill reservoir to the top with brake fluid.
Turn slave at a 45* angle so bleeder is highest point. Crack bleeder (remember, finger tight?) and compress slave pushrod by hand. Tighten bleeder. Let go of pushrod. Repeat.
Check reservoir for fluid level. Replenish as necessary.
Repeat bleed process until fluid comes out the bleeder when pushrod is compressed and bleeder is opened.
Tighten bleeder with wrench, replace slave on bellhousing.
Make sure reservoir has enough fluid.
Check pedal operation with truck running, make sure you have clutch.
Few thoughts on this...I think it's a good idea to use grease or anti-seize on the bleeder and hydraulic hose fittings...both were corroded on mine quite well, after only 10 years, grease would have made it a bit easier to take apart, especially since the nut initially wouldn't spin on the hose.
Gravity bleeding doesn't seem to work. I tried, no fluid seemed to get through the master without suction on the slave side. Odd, as the reservoir drained fine when I removed the old slave.
The slave REALLY doesn't take any effort to compress. My new (Dorman branded) slave has the boot/pushrod captured, so you don't have to worry about holding all the pieces together. That was nice.
I did this with long tube headers. Really no problem with access. No idea how manifolds or shorties might complicate maneuvering the slave around.
Sorry, no pics, but I was actually trying to get this done. Don't ask how long the "oil change" took, or how much it cost.
Thought for sure the slave would have had more hiccups.
