CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Bloody rednecks

Element

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Posts
314
Reaction score
0
Location
WV
Every single time I work on this vehicle it's something else some dumbass redneck decided to chop up instead of properly fixing.

What in the bloody hell is this line for? It's clamped down with the fuel lines along the frame near the rear, but doesn't go anywhere, fore or aft. One end's been cut/pinched shut, and the other end looks to have just rusted apart and fallen off somewhere along the road. Just once, just bloody once, I want to find something on this vehicle that I haven't had to do that's not ghetto rigged, hillbilly style.


 
I can check tomorrow after work, too dark to crawl around under the front of the truck now. There weren't any line "parts" further up along the frame that I saw, but I'll check more closely tomorrow.

I did have a major issue with fueling the truck yesterday - first hot day of the year, and when I took the gas cap off, there was a LOT of pressure built up, and I could only get about 8 gallons into the tank, which was about 1/4 of the way full. If that is the missing line, I'd bet the other end, coming out of where ever it would on the gas tank, is similarly pinched/rusted closed.
 
You have TBI and as I recall, there are 3 lines on top of the tank, a feed, a return, and a vent. The vent runs down the frame rail to the front where it turns to a rubber hose, and hooks into the charcoal canister. Charcoal canister is ~10" tall and ~6" in diameter, and mounted somewhere near the core support on the inner fender, I dont recall if its driver or passenger side.

The metal line as I recall, runs up beside where the brake lines run down next to a front crossmember. That is also where the little electrical connector for the proportioning valve is. It should end there, turn to rubber, and then go to the charcoal canister
 
Yeah, I saw the rubber end of the line when checking the canister earlier this evening, but didn't trace it any farther back than where it emerged from the frame near the fan. I'll check that tomorrow and see if that's the case, and if it is, I'm going to be a bit pissed. Could I run rubber line, instead of buying the entire length of hard line from LMC or Year One or whoever? Can't imagine it's a high-pressure line.
 
That should be the original brake line. See right below it in your first photo, the junction in the brake line. Thats where it used to hook. and it used to go to the rear brake line bracket just below where that stub is hanging in front of the tank.
 
Since I'm impatient, I went and checked, and the vapor return line seems to be fine, so I'm guessing it could be the OEM brake line. Would have been easier if it was the vent tube. Now I have to figure out why the tank won't vent pressure, and if it has anything to do with the stalling problems I'm having.
 
Aha, now I see that, in that last pic I was thinkin it was the line w/ rubber section that was cut but now I see that it is the other line
 
Element said:
Since I'm impatient, I went and checked, and the vapor return line seems to be fine, so I'm guessing it could be the OEM brake line. Would have been easier if it was the vent tube. Now I have to figure out why the tank won't vent pressure, and if it has anything to do with the stalling problems I'm having.

There should be a second larger vent line that runs up to the filler neck. Its the 4th outlet on your sending unit, goes to rubber hose then back to metal when it attaches to the filler assembly. Check that line and make sure its not clogged / pinched. The fun part is that it runs on top of the frame rail below the body.
 
on your last pic, shouldn't the spacers that are between the t-case mount and frame be above the frame? doesn't look like you have much lift if any at all, and wouldn't need to be spaced down.
 
6" blocks in the rear, and spring lift. It's enough to clear 39s with a 1" body lift, whatever that translates to as far as total lift (bought the truck as is, and the guy wasn't sure on exact lift height).
 
SkysTheLimit said:
There should be a second larger vent line that runs up to the filler neck. Its the 4th outlet on your sending unit, goes to rubber hose then back to metal when it attaches to the filler assembly. Check that line and make sure its not clogged / pinched. The fun part is that it runs on top of the frame rail below the body.

I was looking at that one last night, too. How does it attach near the top of the filler neck?
 
Zips straight into the side of it.

You can install a vented fuel cap onto the tank, and it will vent the pressure as needed. The TBI system does relieve pressure, but only while the engine is running, and it will not hurt anything to have a vented gas cap, just make things a bit smelly on hot days...
 
does vented cap waste gas? I got a serious pressure problem on my tank as well. thing blows the cap off when I'm close to unscrewing it and sounds like the gas is boiling sometimes...
 
Theoretically you'd lose a bit of gas, but I think the real problem is the gas fumes eventually hurt the paint. Would be much worse on a closed door application, as opposed to the early ones that were open, and vented to atmosphere.

Venting should be done through the EVAP line, not the cap.
 
yeah, vented caps are for the older vehicles -- but soley venting through the evap does not help the problem of when the truck is just sitting
 
Sure it does. There is nothing stopping the tank venting to EVAP with the truck off. :)

The cannister cannot purge to the engine when it's turned off, but it is designed to vent and capture fuel vapor.
 
Top Bottom