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Blower Blazer Build

Maverick4x4

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I'm building a blazer to blow snow at our cabin. I've used a '91 yj to plow the driveway with varying results the last few years with lots of stucks and dig-outs (the jeep has chained 33's and rear locker). Pic attached of part of the driveway. Approx 20' of snow falls per winter. I gave up on the jeep last winter and used a big walk behind snowblower with better results, though it was a workout. Thought about getting one with tracks.

Owners in the area pay in to keep the main road cleared, then the side roads are extra. I decided to spend my money on equipment rather than pay this extra amount year after year. Plus, it can be used to earn money clearing other side roads for the weekenders (we're just not there to plow early in the morning for the 'rounders).

Additional bonus...if done right, the blazer can be a great expy/moab rig, and/or a rig for my 15yo to wheel in over the late spring/summer/fall. We'll see how this whole thing works this winter and what he wants to do when he turns 16 next summer.

Blower: I started with a killer deal on a Hanson blower with Western Ultramount (attached pic), then needed to find something to mount it to. They are heavy and the literature "requires" a 3/4ton truck. However, everyone here knows that the front ends on 1/2ton and 3/4ton chevy's are the same when it comes to the axle housings. The springs are different. I figured a blazer gives better maneuverability and will be easier to fit in the garage with the blower still attached. If it doesn't work, I'll get a 3/4ton or bolt in a 60.

Rig: I found a sweet '90 Coca-cola white and red blazer with mismatched axles (3.42 front and 3.73 rear) and also found set of '90 3/4 axles (10bolt, sf14). I toyed with picking up a FF14 I saw here with 4.56 and Detroit to match my (forsale) D44 w/ 4.56 and lockright. However, I can see the front axle firmly planted with the weight of the blower and snapping the axle shafts/u-joints. The 10bolt/SF14 will be adequate.

The blazer was super clean inside and out, had a new engine and tranny, and tons of power. No wonder it blew the stock 3.42 10bolt. I was also happy to see the blazer already had the 3 leaf front springs. I spent a morning test driving another lifted blazer, then stopped by and picked up the axles and the Coca-cola Blaze and headed back to the office. 32x11.50 on chrome 6 lug deep-dish rims for sale. Make an offer. Oh ya, 10bolt axles too. Cheap.

Blower, check. Rig, check.

Now for the gizmos to turn these doodads into assets.

Mount: The blower side is a Western Ultramount. The truck side will be a universal mount with bolt on pockets that accept the stingers on the blower side. Western #63900. Just missed the truck side mount on ebay. Gotta keep looking. Cool - went to get the pic of the one I missed, and it was listed again. Click!

Wiring and controls: blower controls will come with the blower, need to get Western Ultramount controls. $$

TAD: I was wanting a locker and hoping for a gov-lock. When I was buying the axles we noticed some old pitting/chips on the spider gears, but the ring/pinion looked great. I figured I'd buy a lockright...and ended up as the only bidder on one on ebay. Check.

Tires: Typical plowing wisdom is skinny snow tires do better than flotation. I believe typical plowing wisdom is based on plowing parking lots and paved surfaces. My mountain snow experience up there is that there is no bottom, only gravel then muddy clay. The jeep would get into crusted snow and bury itself in seconds. So skinny or fat, tall is best...but depends on how much lift I can put on the blazer. Opinions?

Lift: It can't be too high for the mount. Measured the truck: 13-15" to where the mount would be. Measured the blower stingers, they could be up to 20" high (super cool adjustable system). So I've got 5-7" to work with. That means 4" of lift and 35-37" tires. Q78-16LT might fit without lift? 315's? I'll be looking for used tires since it will be running chains anyway - but that means no rubbing will be allowed. Looks like up to 4" will work, but stock would work too, if the tires will fit. Rear shackle flip best?

Shocks: who knows...ya, it will need some. Front has double set up...necessary?

U-bolts: ya, I need those too.

U-joints: special adapter ones to fit rear SF14 to stock driveshaft. Unknown - is the SF14 pinion longer, requiring the driveshaft to be shortened? Maybe the lift will help? Does the shackle flip move the axle forward a little vs a block? Seems like a CV shaft might be in order

Stereo: Every rig needs tunes. Thinking ipod based system. An 800w amp like I did in the jeep, a 10" speaker box in the back, speakers in the dash, and 1/8" jack or ipod dock.

Counterweight: Yes, some kind of way to hang a few hundred pounds off the back, or maybe some concrete buckets inside the back.

Chains: The set I had on the plowjeep fit 33's and may have to be modified for 35's or whatever size I end up with.

Tranny cooler and gauge: Scored both, along with some H2 rims today, traded for a D50 with broken spider gears. One man's junk...

Brett

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Brett Phone March 304.jpg

Western ultramount.jpg
 
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Here is the description and the pics from the ad:

1990 full size Blazer 4x4. 5.7l automatic trans W/ overdrive

runs great in good condition. Motor and tranny have been rebuilt. previous owner was coca cola co. so the maintence of the Blazer was on track. just had a new baby so need to sell.

The guy had to choose between selling this and selling his '65 396 Chevelle. I'd have sold the blazer too.

blazer front.jpg

blazer front seats.jpg

blazer back seats.jpg
 
I think you have it right to go with the 4" lift and 35's. The rear will do great with a shackle flip. You definitely don't want blocks. I would really think about a anti-wrap bar to help keep the wheel hop down. Maybe, a swing out or drop down tire carrier bumper from DIY4x can add the needed rear weight plus the tire would help. That k5 should be a great rig to get the memories going.:waytogo:

And change that signature pic too.Heeps:doah:
 
This will be interesting, but honestly I was hoping to see a 671 on a big block
phhft. You guys are thinking small. 8-71 and bigger baby. He should build it with a PSI screw blower.


BTW, isn't that blazer too nice to turn into a plow rig. From what I've seen, anything used to remove show becomes a smoked out rust bucket in no time. They haven't made SFA blazers in 20 years. They are starting to get rare.
 
This will be interesting, but honestly I was hoping to see a 671 on a big block
x3 LOL... my mind was already thinkin "sweet, forced induction!"

Being from Maine I've seen my fair share of white stuff and plow trucks. I remember when I was little there was this old duffer who used to plow with a 1ton 2wd dodge locked in the rear with chains, that thing went everywhere!! Seems to me though there aren't too many paralells between plow trucks and snowblower vehicles in regards to what it takes to get the job done; what I mean is it's much less taxing on the chassis using a blower. You don't have to do a ton of back and forth frame twisting smashing snowbank crushing... Hopefully the blaze stays nice; you don't have any calcium chloride or salt on the roads in the winter do you? Driving in New England in the winter is just about the worst punishment I can think of for car lovers... Subd.
 
I would not waste any time in ordering the ORD bolt-in AND weld in steering box frame brace kits. All the extra weight on the front end isn't good
 
phhft. You guys are thinking small. 8-71 and bigger baby. He should build it with a PSI screw blower.


BTW, isn't that blazer too nice to turn into a plow rig. From what I've seen, anything used to remove show becomes a smoked out rust bucket in no time. They haven't made SFA blazers in 20 years. They are starting to get rare.

The Blower unit won't be near as hard on the truck as a Plow.
Plus its Utah they don't salt the roads like out east.



That being said your gonna want a Dana 60 front the weight of the Blower is gonna kill ball joints and may bend the housing on the Dana 44.

Also Ditch the 35's or wide tries at all really. You need some tall Skinny tire. a 255-85-16 would be a good size for you uses . with chains it would be a beast!!.

Throw 35's on in the summer.


Tranny cooler,Power Steering cooler, Your gonna want them.

As for the Lift, Just make sure that when the Plow/Blower is attached your "a frame" arms are Parallel to the ground You don't want any angle. which means your gonna most likely have to add material to your truck side bracket to get it low enough which with a normal Plow I would be leary off because of all the extra leverage placed on the frame , but with a blower unit you should be ok because you won't have the hard impacts like a plow would.
 
I had the same thought! :laugh: Gonna be an interesting build in spite of the lack of forced air! :thumb:

Seriously, I was afraid of that, but somehow Snowblower Blazer Build just didn't sound as good.

Thanks for the comments, I think this will be fun. Kids have been asking so we're about to go take it for a spin around the neighborhood.
 
x3 LOL... my mind was already thinkin "sweet, forced induction!"

Being from Maine I've seen my fair share of white stuff and plow trucks. I remember when I was little there was this old duffer who used to plow with a 1ton 2wd dodge locked in the rear with chains, that thing went everywhere!! Seems to me though there aren't too many paralells between plow trucks and snowblower vehicles in regards to what it takes to get the job done; what I mean is it's much less taxing on the chassis using a blower. You don't have to do a ton of back and forth frame twisting smashing snowbank crushing... Hopefully the blaze stays nice; you don't have any calcium chloride or salt on the roads in the winter do you? Driving in New England in the winter is just about the worst punishment I can think of for car lovers... Subd.

Salt in Utah? Um...YES. However, this is in a mountain cabin community (near Wanship), where the only road maintenance is from the cabin owners. No salt on these roads, wouldn't help. We had one nasty icy stretch last year on a hill at the bottom...finally had to grade it down to the dirt.

All of the roads are graded dirt; some with a bit of road base, some just clay, so we typically like to maintain a 2-4 inches of packed snow base.

I'm thinking the same thing about blowing vs plowing. Rather than jamming along to keep the momentum, most of this will be slow going in 4low, just fast enough to keep the blower working. Then blower-up to turn around or drive back or over to another section.

The biggest issue I had with the little jeep was getting stuck. It had chained up 33x12.50s and a rear locker. With any resistance it would dig down through the snow and into the road (some road base, mostly clay) and get high centered. The big jeep with chained up 39's has done pretty good up there, including pulling quite a few heavier trucks up hills.

So...I'm nervous about tire width. Chains are pretty much required. Digging down has caused problems, seems like whether skinny or fat, taller is better.

2011-04-30 17.51.16.jpg

2011-03-30 17.05.43.jpg
 
:haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha::haha:

Trucks certainly aren't as bad as back east but Utah is terrible for rust man terrible and they do salt the roads.

They have alot of salt

LOL, that was my first response, but I toned it down. Think SALT FLATS and GREAT SALT LAKE. Ya, we've got some salt, and we know how to use it.
 
So...I'm nervous about tire width. Chains are pretty much required. Digging down has caused problems, seems like whether skinny or fat, taller is better.

Haha, I know you have salt; I just wasnt sure of the way in which the DOT treated the roads.. For that matter, what are your plowing practices? The reason I ask is because you mentioned flotation tires which "usually" isnt synonymous with plowing at least in the north east. The classic plow truck is like a 70 some odd ford f250 w co-op grip spurs or something like that.. Not knowing any better I guess I'd vote for, maybe if they still make them, some classic buckshot Q78s; I think they have stud holes. I know you said you run chains but the addition of studs cant hurt... We ice race up in the mid coast region where I'm from and we use to get some "take off" winter rally tires but then we found these tires called "black rockets" which are a narrow, deep, radical ice tire; they work boss in most race conditions...Anyway.....A little long winded sorry.... We sourced some studs like the ones that came in the black rockets but longer and they DIG like sum-bitches:eek1:
Maybe a combination of narrow buckshot type tire and long studs would work like :saweet:
We usually drive 100-150 miles on bare tar (stud heat) carefully to seat the studs to the rubber, this way they have less of a tendency to pull while spinning...

Pic; Black Rocktes and "special" unlimmited class tires.....:waytogo:

black rockets.jpg

ice tires.jpg
 

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