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Blown headgasket or cracked block? Help?

It's just the shortblock. Longblock is 1300 but I'd rather source my own heads and have them done up the way I want
 
UPDATE:

The leak near the head seems to have stopped for the most part. If you look at the pic I posted earlier, you'll see a wet "line" just underneath the temp sensor and above the bolts. I still get that line and am not sure if that's a crack in the head or not.

Anyway, on Sunday, I bled the cooling system of air and everything seemed to perform well if I left the radiator cap in the "middle" position. I sealed it up and drove it to the car audio place to finally have my stereo put it. I checked again when I got there and I notice some small leaks coming from the upper radiator hose both at the radiator and at the water housing. I'm guessing it introduced air back into the system because on the way back home, the temp spiked and settled again. One thing I also noticed is that coolant is being pushed into the overflow but not being sucked back in. When it's cold, the coolant is WAY over the cold level line but the radiator level is down near half. One day I started and drove to work anyway just to see what would happen and when I got to the light rail station, all the coolant was gone from the overflow and the radiator seemed to have had almost a full load of coolant, it still had a gap for air though.

Maybe I'm getting it backward but I thought that coolant was supposed to fill the overflow when hot and get sucked back in when cold. This seems to be doing the opposite. Is that why I keep getting air in my system?

I'm getting ready to just throw in a new motor, radiator and hoses and be done with it.
 
I'm curious if you ever discovered the source of the problem. I'm having a very similar issue where all my coolant gets pushed into the overflow reservoir, but then never gets sucked back in, leaving my radiator near empty. I've replaced the radiator, the thermostat (twice) and am not seeing any oil in coolant or coolant in oil or even much smoke. What did your problem end up being?
 
I've had a headgasket fail on my original engine where it was such a small leak, it leaked in the #8 cylinder and would usually take about a weeks time before I noticed it through the temp gauge. It would heat up alittle hotter than normal, then drop way down, that's when I knew the water level was low. I never had any coolant in oil until the last time i tried to start and it finally hydrolocked.

I started pulling plugs and when I got to #8. The whole cylinder just dumped out with coolant. I then checked the oil and it was still barely just discolored, not like I have seen in the past with major headgasket malfunctions.
 
I have the same issue with my '90. I'm about 99% certain it's got a bad head gasket, but the oil is fine looking. All it does is slowly eat coolant, aside from that it runs fine.

Rene
 
I can imagine the radiator cap ,which is supposed to let coolant out into the overflow tank,should also allow it to return when a vacuum forms as the coolant cools off after shutting the engine off--but a teeny-weenie leak in a head gasket that lets a slight amount of coolant leak into a cylinder will also release that vacuum and not let the radiator cap open up to let the suction pull the coolant back into the radiator..
 
Also, the gasket on the "outside" of the cap is important.
Not the one on the plunger, the one that seals the cap to the neck of the radiator.
If its bad, you might get a small amount of coolant leakage, but you will never develop enough vacuum to suck the coolant back into the radiator.

He said he had changed a lot of things, but I didn't see where he changed the cap.
 
Also, the gasket on the "outside" of the cap is important.
Not the one on the plunger, the one that seals the cap to the neck of the radiator.
If its bad, you might get a small amount of coolant leakage, but you will never develop enough vacuum to suck the coolant back into the radiator.

He said he had changed a lot of things, but I didn't see where he changed the cap.

I'm not sure if you're talking to me or to the OP, but I did actually change the radiator cap even though I didn't list it.

I've determined my problem really is a blown gasket/warped head. I did the "run with the radiator cap off and look for bubbles check" and could see only very small bubbles before the engine warmed up. Once warm, nothing really changed until I rev'ed the engine pretty high. At that point the coolant got frothy, and my exhaust started blowing white smoke. At that point I knew it must be the head gasket.

I think I'm going to attempt some blue devil HG sealant, but if it doesn't work I guess I'll be taking off those heads. Fun times.
 
Yep, I was wondering about you. I kinda figured with everything else, you would have replaced the cap, but you never know.

You aren't running DexCool by any chance are you? I'm sure by now, everybody knows about that problem.
 
No, I'm running good old-fashioned green antifreeze. I changed the radiator partly because I was worried someone had previously used DexCool in the truck. The color was a bit brownish, although mostly I was just having cooling problems. Looking back that must have been oil in the coolant that made it brown. I was expecting more of a separated oil/water appearance rather than dissolved oil.
 
I haven't had a chance to take a look at that problem yet. Since it doesn't really overheat the motor and I'm not using my heater at the moment, I've prioritized it lower than my other issues. I'll be removing the heads soon so I'll let you know what I find. I just replaced the entire brake system and fixed two fuel leaks and tried to replace the fuel pump (but noticed the hack job that installed the motor dropped in it too low and now the only pump that will work is the one it came with, a new one won't fit, oh and he cut into the engine cradle to make room for the crank pulley).
 
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