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body bolts, how tight?

muddybuddy

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im taking my body lift off and puttin in all new hardware. how much are the nuts/bolts suposed to be torqued to? i was able to get 2 of the bed bolts off by hand:eek1:.
 
Are you going rubber or poly?

LMC sells entire kits for body mounts/bed mounts with ALL the hardware needed.
 
I am doing Energy Suspension poly with new grade 8 bolts. What is the the torque? I don't want to risk breaking any of the hidden welded nuts.

Almost done. Pulling the tank this weekend to do the position 5 mounts and the shackle flip, if it's not too hot.
 
I tightened mine down with a 1/2" drive ratchet but I positioned my hand almost all the way up the ratchet. So they are on there good and tight. Just make sure you tighten all the body mounts to the same torque.
 
ive got new poly stuff from energy susp. the last guy had some of them finger tight after the body lift...SCARY!
 
i used polys on mine... i used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4' pipe.... mine are what you may call tieeeeeght:wink1:
 
I think somewhere between finger tight and cranked down all the way, is where they need to be.

Just watch as you tighten the bolt. The bushing will compress...
 
I was looking at the Energy Systems instructions and found this line:
When all mounts and hardware are installed, torque all bolts to factory
specifications
.

According to the service manual, the body mounts are torqued from 35 to 55 ft - lbs depending on truck model and location.

For the K5:
Position #1 - 35 ft-lbs
Position #2 - 55 ft-lbs
Position #3 - 45 ft-lbs
Position #4 - 35 ft-lbs
Position #5 - 35 ft-lbs
 
AZ79K5Project said:
I don't want to risk breaking any of the hidden welded nuts.

you won't break the hidden nuts. what will happen is you will round out the square pocket they are set in. I have had it happen several times when replacing body mounts, never when retightening though. The nuts are actually big square chunks of steel with a tapped hole in it.

I get them tight and then give em a couple of pulls with a breaker bar.
 
gmc4cw said:
you won't break the hidden nuts. what will happen is you will round out the square pocket they are set in. I have had it happen several times when replacing body mounts, never when retightening though. The nuts are actually big square chunks of steel with a tapped hole in it.

I get them tight and then give em a couple of pulls with a breaker bar.
yeah mine were like a big C that has a hole in the bottom for the bolt to come through..then the big square nut sits in there.. so if you go too tight or during loosening.. yeah the top of the C spreads and it just rotates... my front passenger cab bolt I had to cut a hole and put a big screwdriver in there to hold it still to get the bolt out.... :doah:
 
muddybuddy said:
awesome thanks for that! how bout for a k30?

This is out of the 79 Manual for all "C and K" models - Non crew/extended cab:

Position #1 - 35 ft-lbs
Position #2 - 45 ft-lbs
Position #3 - 45 ft-lbs
Position #4 - -- ft-lbs
Position #5 - -- ft-lbs
 
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