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Body/frame swap or suspension swap

b454rat

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Ok try to explain this best I can. My fingers aren't as quick as my brain sometimes. OK all the time. I have a 98 Tahoe and a 96 Yukon. The Tahoe is all stock, has hi miles but runs and drives good. The Yukon has a 4" lift, whipple supercharger, and some other stuff that I wanted to put on the Tahoe anyways. I have most of the parts to SAS either one, but want to keep the Yukon and sell the Tahoe. I need to replace the motor/tranny in the Yukon, already found the parts. I'd like to put the 4" lift on the Tahoe, along with 4.56 axles I picked up dirt cheap, and sell it. Kinda doesn't make much sense to pull the lift off the Yukon to put on the Tahoe, why I thought of swapping frames. But I've never done anything "hardcore" like this, so not sure what's involved. What say ye?
 
What are you looking for? I don’t think anyone responded because it sounds like a crazy idea. Most folks that decide to separate bodies and frames don’t need instructions for a punch list. Plus, most of us haven’t worked on these models.

It’d be a ton of work to swap bodies instead of suspension. I can’t imagine trying to swap bodies without multiple lifts to do the work.
 
and the Yukon to Tahoe and back to Yukon talk is very confusing. :dunno:
 
I've done suspension swaps, but never a body swap, why I asked how difficult it is. The Tahoe is stock, the Yukon has an IFS lift. I want to take the IFS lift off the Yukon and put it on the Tahoe. But since the Yukon will get an SAS, seems like more work to take it off one, put it on the other one, just to take it off again. but, like mentioned, don't have any way of lifting both bodies at the same time.
 
It seems like the last sentence there made the decision for you. But I would agree with you that it is a fair amount of work to swap parts to the Yukon and then pull it apart.
I would look it over closely before attempting a body swap to see if there were rear coolant and A/C lines that may hinder or cause expense to the process. I know from experience of pulling a cab off of a '99 K3500 that there were so e wires on the passenger side of the firewall which didn't unplug there. I didn't find a way to disconnect them easily inside either.
Also, are there chances that body bolts or mounts will cause problems or expense in the swap? Like rust or dead mounts?
I would personally leave the bodies on their own frames, unless I found an issue which could improve the truck that I planned to keep. I am thinking corrosion or damage.
 
Ok try to explain this best I can. My fingers aren't as quick as my brain sometimes. OK all the time. I have a 98 Tahoe and a 96 Yukon. The Tahoe is all stock, has hi miles but runs and drives good. The Yukon has a 4" lift, whipple supercharger, and some other stuff that I wanted to put on the Tahoe anyways. I have most of the parts to SAS either one, but want to keep the Yukon and sell the Tahoe. I need to replace the motor/tranny in the Yukon, already found the parts. I'd like to put the 4" lift on the Tahoe, along with 4.56 axles I picked up dirt cheap, and sell it. Kinda doesn't make much sense to pull the lift off the Yukon to put on the Tahoe, why I thought of swapping frames. But I've never done anything "hardcore" like this, so not sure what's involved. What say ye?
If you're doing one vehicle body swap could be worth it but trying to get both vehicles back to running condition is too much work and I don't understand why you would swap the suspension on the vehicle will get an SAS.
You're saying you can't lift both at the same time, you still need to do so for either option.
If you have a vehicle lift, use it for the Tahoe to receive the ifs lift, and just put the Yukon on jack stands, until you are ready for the SAS.
 
The Tahoe I plan on selling. Once I do the SAS on the Yukon, I will have an IFS lift. Why not put it on the Tahoe and increase the chances of selling it? It runs good, drive good, very little rust, underneath is super clean, for the area so any bolts or hardware shouldn’t be n issue. I plan on keeping the Yukon, just don’t find whipple superchargers every day haha. That is super clean with zero rust, and has parts or options that I wanted on the Tahoe anyways. Plus being black just looks better. After pondering it for months, think the best option is just to take the IFS lift off, SAS it and if I still have the Tahoe put it on that.
 
The Tahoe I plan on selling. Once I do the SAS on the Yukon, I will have an IFS lift. Why not put it on the Tahoe and increase the chances of selling it? It runs good, drive good, very little rust, underneath is super clean, for the area so any bolts or hardware shouldn’t be n issue. I plan on keeping the Yukon, just don’t find whipple superchargers every day haha. That is super clean with zero rust, and has parts or options that I wanted on the Tahoe anyways. Plus being black just looks better. After pondering it for months, think the best option is just to take the IFS lift off, SAS it and if I still have the Tahoe put it on that.
Plus if you're selling the Tahoe you don't want to change frames
 
An IFS lift by itself might be worth more money than it adds to the resale value of a 20+ year old truck. Especially when considering labor and that you have to come up with a 2nd rear lift. Or just use it as an engine donor and part everything out.
 
i always hated the 88-98 style ifs lifts . no real good kits with knuckles so always had to drill tons of holes and lots of drop brackets .

just flip the one . keep what one you want and s.a.s that one . less crap to play with in the end .
 
If I could sell the Tahoe I would. Had someone offer $200 for it....
What shape is it in?
Does it look like a $200 truck?
Adding the lift won't change that it will eat the value of the lift.
I am too far but am in the market for a Tahoe or suburban of that generation what condition is it in?
 
Its in pretty good condition for the age and the area. I've seen some rusted way worse than this one. Only rust on this is the bottom of the fenders and just starting on the rear left barn door. Underneath is super clean, frame barely has surface rust. Oh the bumper is rusted, but pretty much a given for a PA vehicle. But same as a truck bumper, so replacement wont be hard or expensive. The interior is OK, full leather, very little tares. Carpet could use a good cleaning, but I never really tried to clean it, Headliner is prolly the worst, it's falling throughout the whole thing. There is still a shit load of these in a local yard, was gonna grab a new one. Its not like I'm asking 10k for the stupid thing, just want someone to take a look (I hate when people ask, "what do you want for it?" If I did, don't you think I'd list a price?!?) I have $800 in new tires, and $1200 in new parts. If I could sell it for $800 I'd be happy just to get rid of it.
 
I'm a least amount of work guy. Your SASing the lifted one right.

Sell the lift seperately when you SAS it. Sell the other as is
 
I’m not having he best of luck selling anything. Things I would think would be a hot seller, sits. Why I quit selling and looking for 60s. I’ll keep trying to sell or trade it, see what happens.
 

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