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Body Lift, 2" vs. 3" MADE MY MIND NEW QUESTION

Go with the 2" body lift or upgrade to a 3"


  • Total voters
    24
It is, UNLESS the cage nuts start spinning under the floor on the cab mounts..

Do 1 side at a time to keep everything lined up.. take driverside out, loosen pas side up, install driver side and leave the new bolts loose, then do pass side...

and your tailgate springs wont work anymore...
 
Keep an eye on wires when lifting body like fuel sender and taillight/brake wires. Tailgate springs/helpers can be bent to still work with 2" body lift. Soak bolts on the truck in PB Blaster a few hours before starting it should help. It's a good time todo body bushings as well. :D
 
It is, UNLESS the cage nuts start spinning under the floor on the cab mounts..

Do 1 side at a time to keep everything lined up.. take driverside out, loosen pas side up, install driver side and leave the new bolts loose, then do pass side...

and your tailgate springs wont work anymore...


Yeah I've ran into that before with the rear cab mounts. We cut an axcess hole inside the cab to get down where the nut is to replace it and then welded the plate we cut out back in.

Everyone thats saying NO to body mounts, why dont you give a reason? Yeah body lifts are stupid on IFS trucks and in some applications, but for our trucks they arn't such a bad thing.
 
Everyone thats saying NO to body mounts, why dont you give a reason? Yeah body lifts are stupid on IFS trucks and in some applications, but for our trucks they arn't such a bad thing.

I thought we did. Safety being the main one. You get to some serious off camber areas, it's comfortable to know your cab will stay in place. Heck, it's great to know that I can get in an accident and have a high chance of survival because of my suspension only lift. Again, I do think a 1" is fine. Anything more and you start putting excessive stress on things. It' a leverage problem.
 
I thought we did. Safety being the main one. You get to some serious off camber areas, it's comfortable to know your cab will stay in place. Heck, it's great to know that I can get in an accident and have a high chance of survival because of my suspension only lift. Again, I do think a 1" is fine. Anything more and you start putting excessive stress on things. It' a leverage problem.

But has anyone ever seen a Grade 8 bolt broke from a properly installed body lift? I HIGHLY doubt it. The thin sheetmetal from the cab mount would fail before the lift failed and in that case the extra height wouldn't have anything to do with it.
 
But has anyone ever seen a Grade 8 bolt broke from a properly installed body lift? I HIGHLY doubt it. The thin sheetmetal from the cab mount would fail before the lift failed and in that case the extra height wouldn't have anything to do with it.

Agreed, I've helped a buddy put a 3" on his Ram, turned out great, very much more agressive for the price. Granted, it has no function other then looks. He was T-boned by another truck doing about 40 and only one of the mount had come off... the one closest to the point of impact, the bolt had ripped through the floor. All the other body mounts were in tact. The cab did not fall off the frame or anything crazy like that. I think it'd take a hell of a multi-roll roll over to do anything like that, and if you're involved in an accident like that, you were probabley going way to fast anyways.
 
The cab did not fall off the frame or anything crazy like that. I think it'd take a hell of a multi-roll roll over to do anything like that, and if you're involved in an accident like that, you were probabley going way to fast anyways.

But the strength is in the shank. Get the right shank and you'll be safer. I'm not saying it's going to happen every time either, but the chances are higher that it will. As far as the roll goes, have you been to Moab? Speed doesn't matter when you endo several hundred feet downhill, when you were trying to go up. Granted, a good roll cage tied into the frame will help immensely as well.
 

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