CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

body lift, good or not so good

karlmagnum

Registered Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Fl
Planning to lift my K5 Blazer but I'm on a budget, so I’m thinking of installing the body lift kit that I saw at 4wo (click here for their body lifts). Is body lift kit worth installing? Or should I save my money and save more to get a lift kit or suspension lift? And how bad is a 3" body lift? Thanks in advance for any inputs.
 
Get a real lift. IMO, a one inch body lift can be okay if you need a little extra clearance, but with a 3 inch BL, you run into all kinds of alignment problems with shifter and TC linkage, bumpers, etc. Safety also becomes a concern with larger BL kits. Really the only advantage to a BL is price, period.

If cost is really a factor, you can get some inexpensive suspension lifts for less than 400 bucks. They won't ride the best, and you'll have blocks in the rear, but you avoid a lot of the body lift complications. If you shop around on the forum, you might find someone that is upgrading and getting rid of lift parts for cheap. Depending on how much lift you need, a one inch body lift and some zero rates might be a cost effective solution with minimal compromise.
 
What are your total plans for the truck? What size tire do you want to run and what will you do with it?
 
A 1" body lift is not only the max you should go, IMO, but is great for working on the truck -- gets you clearance in places you didn't know you needed it. I have ~4" springs and the 1" body pucks, love it.

A taller body lift is a safety and installation nightmare as you end up having to move your bumpers, shift linkages, steering, etc, and what sounded cheap to begin with... isn't.

So, yep, do a suspension lift (whether new springs or shackles or hanger changes based on answers to the questions others have asked.)

-- A
 
Got a 3" on my k20, no real issues. Not sure I'd do another though. Few buddies all run same size body lifts with no issues really either.

I only had to lengthen the clutch rod, buddies with auto's just lengthened the shifter rod.

I'm also running a flat deck so moving the back bumper wasn't a issue. As for the front, it doesn't really bother me.
 
I use to do a lot of lift kit installs . all I can say is I will not do body lifts anymore .

the extra b/s and time you spend in the end its only getting you 3" of lift . ya price is cheeper but labor /time / bad body bushings / it all add's up to same if not more than just doing a good quality lift .

call offroaddesign for a price on what you need for a real lift . these people will work within your budget to get you going . great vendor here on the site also .
 
Also, don't be afraid to buy used lift parts. There are plenty available cheap for Chevy trucks.
 
That's a lot of info guys. Thanks! Planning to install a body lift then add suspension lift if I already have a budget. Want my rig to be more offroad capable and put a bigger set of tires. Will install 1-2" body lift since 3" can cause some issues.
 
if your going to do a body lift and want it to fit big tires then just do a 3" since your there. buy the full kit from performance accessories and you will get all parts needed.

but if your only squeazing and want easy working on it like turning wrenches 1" is super nice.
 
Don't do a 2" either. Do a 1" body lift (with new body mounts), or no body lift.

Check out my build thread on my 1988 V10 Suburban. I only have a set of three pack factory springs with a 1" zero rate on the front, 3" lift blocks on the rear, and a 1" body lift, and I ran 37's with minimal trimming.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067

Martin
 
not to mention, 2" aren't readily available afaik....

1" BL and the rest suspension FTW...
 
a 1" body lift (with new body mounts)

QFT. I forgot about replacing the body mounts. While you're adding the pucks and replacing the hardware, put in new mounts. I'd do (and did!) poly over rubber personally, as it doesn't wear out like rubber and is more resistant to the various and sundry leaks my truck always seems to have.

-- A
 
I'll throw in my two cents about the body lift since I just finished installing the ORD 1" pucks and poly body mounts myself.

First thing I'd mention that I don't ever see anybody else saying is the job to remove the mounts themselves is not going to be fun. Unless you're smart enough to go under your truck and get lucky enough to have penetrating lube hit the captured nuts / bolts just right, the captured nuts will break loose in their stupid mounts and just spin away. (There are holes in the cab that seem to give you access to the nuts but not easy to hit with the lube).

Granted the instructions warn about this, but on my rig there was no cure for the rust and junk that had stuck the bolts after nearly 30 years. I had to actually cut the cab floor open on those back two and then weld the nuts so they'd stop spinning.. :angry1:

Again, I'm sure that your experience just as others might vary but my rig came from down south and was never even driven in the salt, etc..

I like the suggestions some have made about the 1" body lift plus some zero rates, (ez-inch, whatever..).

Another idea is a shackle flip out back & it will get you 4" without much effort at all. But then you'd have to find some way to get the front brought up there too. Maybe some longer shackles and zero rates?? That would leave you with a nice stance too, and correct the tendency for the front to look higher than the back if your truck is evenly lifted. But then you'd still have those nasty old body mounts if you decided to just lift purely suspension.

Like others have said, those mounts are often beyond shot needing replacement badly. The bolts in the front on mine had rusted in half!

Here's a few photos of what you might expect to find..

20140418_122134_zps3d5d50fb.jpg


20140418_124544_zps502c8f20.jpg


20140418_141805_zpseb92a808.jpg


This last one shows half the mount, and then the 1" puck sitting on top. the mount simply drops into the hole seen above in the frame and then clamps with a huge washer and another bushing not pictured here from underneath.

Good luck with your plans!
 
One thing I will ad, not sure if its a problem on the 73-91 trucks, but with the gmt400's its best to ad a thin plate with a diameter the same as the factory body mount plate on top of the body lift blocks. This will keep the blocks from eventually pushing through the floor, it seems that the passenger side is worst for them.

I had thought I had mine all plated but only did the rear ones and found that my front passenger side had pushed through.


 
Top Bottom