body lift issues

[SUPERSUB87]

might be a stupid question...
how do you loosen up the steering shaft for the body lift?.. and how do you get to the clutch linkage to lengthen it with the weld in piece?
also would some sealant or loctite help keep the 2 pucks inside the rear quarter panels (the pucks with no bolts in them) from sliding out like some have said they do at full flex?
also for future reference.. how much fender trimming would be needed to fit 42's or 44's on a 10" lift??? thanks for all of ya'lls help

 

[shaun89]

if ur talking about a 2" body lift, i just loosened the 2 bolts that hold up the column and it says it slides down but i didnt see any movement really and my steering is still fine. about the cluth linkage...i have a 700r but my friend did a 3" body lift with a 465 and he just put it on the spot that looked like it had to drop, basically any straight section of the linkage, i just crawled under my truck and pictured how it would move and put it in a place i felt was good and i cant help u with the rear mount question...i have a k5 so mine were all bolted in...and trim, just do what u think would be good, just look at other guys trucks, u can always cut more but u cant put back on. hope this help u, good luck

 

[Chevy305]

Inorder to keep the stock clutch linkage in place you can't go any higher than a 1.5 inch body lift or so. At least that is how it is on my 85 K10.

 

[cbbr]

On my sub, I didn't adjust the steering. I used spacers that fit the holse for the non-boly on mounts. I bolted the spacers to the pucks. I did an ORD 1".

 

[GotBoykins]

I have a 3" with a mechanical clutch linkage, and it works. Cut the shaft after it comes through the firewall, at a straight spot, and weld it in. The steering shaft will have to be heated to get the nylon locks out, the lengthen it that way. Its best to remove the entire shaft to do this. Dont know about the ones without bolts.

 

[SUPERSUB87]

I have a 3" with a mechanical clutch linkage, and it works. Cut the shaft after it comes through the firewall, at a straight spot, and weld it in. The steering shaft will have to be heated to get the nylon locks out, the lengthen it that way. Its best to remove the entire shaft to do this. Dont know about the ones without bolts.

thanks this is exactly what i needed. i got a 3" body lift so this helps a lot. I'm not sure about my clutch linkage though. i have a manual 3-speed with a low gear. is that the sm465 or what?

 

[GotBoykins]

thanks this is exactly what i needed. i got a 3" body lift so this helps a lot. I'm not sure about my clutch linkage though. i have a manual 3-speed with a low gear. is that the sm465 or what?

L 2

3 4
If it looks like that it mostly likely is. Ill take a pic of mine tomorrow if that will help.

 

[SUPERSUB87]

L 2

3 4
If it looks like that it mostly likely is. Ill take a pic of mine tomorrow if that will help.

im pretty sure its like this
L 2
1 3 R
but im not 100% positive, but pretty sure.

 

[JEBSR]

thats the pattern on my 465

 

[SUPERSUB87]

thats the pattern on my 465

yeah, that's what i thought it was. I changed the clutch in it last summer. (still havent been able to drive her ) i thought thats what was stamped on the side but i wasn't sure. Can't wait till i get to drive may baby, even in 2wheel drive it would be fine for me, i just want to be able to start it.

 

[Chevy305]

im pretty sure its like this
L 2
1 3 R
but im not 100% positive, but pretty sure.

Its much better if you go by the pattern:

1 2
3 4 R

At least it makes it seem more sporty

 

[GotBoykins]

L 2

3 4
If it looks like that it mostly likely is. Ill take a pic of mine tomorrow if that will help.

I messed that all up

L 2
1 3 r