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Body Lift removal

AJs72K5

AJs72K5

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I picked up a set of low profile valve covers that should give me enough firewall clearance to pull the body lift off of the K5. Question is, exactly how does one go about pulling the pucks (I'm using "pucks" very loosely as mine is square tubing) out without tweaking the body too much? Any particular order they should come out?
 
I'd do it side-to-side....

Loosen ALL the bodymount bolts, then jack under the torsionbox with a scrap of lumber to spread the load out as much as possible. Keep the doors shut and don't forget that the core support has two mounts under it.

Also....things like the shift linkage have probably been lengthened, so loosen that also before you start lowering anything.

With a full-bodied truck it's probably a 2 man job....you'll need an extra set of eyes watching and listening for problems while someone else works that jack VERY gently.

Finally, be cognizant that the factory used shims under certain body mounts to get door gaps corrected. Keep a close eye on each location an note if shims are present and make sure to put them all back in the same locations once you yank the lift blocks out.


:usaflag:
 
I would get a 1 inch body lift from ORD to back in. You'll need all the clearance you can get.

Definitely do one side at a time. Make sure you have someone helping you, the biggest problem spot will be fender to door, door to windshield frame and door to bedside clearance. The body will flex a LOT so watch your clearances to prevent paint loss. May not be a bad idea to have the doors open before you start moving the body.

You may have to reshim the body mounts to get your door gaps right.
 
It's already got a set of poly mounts on it. The PO slapped the square tubing above the top washer on the poly mount. So basically we've got: 2" of square tubing, then washer, poly puck...

Here's where my noob-ness shows. On the subject of shimming, what do I use? Fender washers? What size?
 
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AJs72K5 said:
It's already got a set of poly mounts on it. The PO slapped the square tubing above the top washer on the poly mount. So basically we've got: 2" of square tubing, then washer, poly puck...

Here's where my noob-ness shows. On the subject of shimming, what do I use? Fender washers? What size?
Click to expand...

Sure, fender washers of the correct dimensions will be fine.

I've found that once you get the mounts under the firewall set up right, the rest tend to fall into place.
When I grafted a truck firewall onto a blazer tub, I thought I was screwed, then I change only those mounts and it made a huge difference/change.

DCP_3319blazerproject.jpg

DCP_3320blazerproject.jpg
 
Definately side to side. I have never taken one out, but i have put many in.

Since i sold my 42's and only have 37's under mine currently with 11" of lift, i am also considering pulling my 3" body lift out. My body bushings were shot and i picked up a set on c/l for $50 out of a 72. it also came with a 2" body lift. So i am thinking of doing the swap, since i need to put all the bushings in anyway.
 
When I changed to poly bodymounts I put back the factory spacers (the big square washers) in the same places but then there were gaps at the other body mounts. So, I took out the spacers until the body was resting on all the mounts. Next I'm going to check the gaps and see if I should add or remove spacers. I thought it was odd that it didn't line up with the factory spacers, Maybe there were more washers origionally that rusted away.
 
Peteasauras said:
When I changed to poly bodymounts I put back the factory spacers (the big square washers) in the same places but then there were gaps at the other body mounts. So, I took out the spacers until the body was resting on all the mounts. Next I'm going to check the gaps and see if I should add or remove spacers. I thought it was odd that it didn't line up with the factory spacers, Maybe there were more washers origionally that rusted away.
Click to expand...
How do you like the poly mounts? Thats what i bought. I heard they are too stiff. Geuss i'll find out this summer.
 
I haven't driven on the poly mounts yet, but from what everyone has said about them squeeking and being stiffer I don't see any point in using poly over rubber. I would probably have done rubber just based upon what others said if I did it again.
 
I've got stock height poly's on mine from the previous owner. I can't compare the rubber to the poly, but there is a lot of vibration, clanging, and metal squeaks from the doors when driving it.

I also have a new set of poly's I was going to replace them with, but I also heard the rubber versions were better.
 
bp71k5 said:
I've got stock height poly's on mine from the previous owner. I can't compare the rubber to the poly, but there is a lot of vibration, clanging, and metal squeaks from the doors when driving it.

I also have a new set of poly's I was going to replace them with, but I also heard the rubber versions were better.
Click to expand...

No need to be afraid of the poly's, I ran em for a couple years on my driver without any issue's/complaints.

I slathered them with anti-seize during installation and never heard a single 'bad' sound out of them.
 
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