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Body Lift

K5_DIESEL

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Hey all I was wondering if I could do a 3" body lift on an M1009 Military K5 Blazer with a 6.2l Diesel the manufactur says not for diesels, and if I can what do I have to do to make this work and this will be used in warmer weather so what is my risk of over heating, also will be mainly used for mudding? Any help would be amazing. Thanks
 
Will work just fine but why not do a spring lift? Easy and fairly cheap for these trucks. Also with the flexy frames we have body lifts aren't popular.
 
well i want to do an 8" BDS lift and a 4" reverse shackle kit bc i want 12 inch of lift but i figured since i wasnt going to flex that much that it wouldnt be worth it but after reading some other guys that did BLs werent happy plus Im scared it would over heat, the only thing with going with the BDS is i wouldnt know how long my driveshaft would have to be or how to measure it, any ideas
 
What do you need that much lift for?

You'll need new driveshafts, and high angle ones, with that much lift. Best method is to lift it, get the axles positioned correctly, and then measure. That way you KNOW for sure how long of a shaft YOUR TRUCK needs.
 
Well I want to be the biggest truck on the Block is the reason for that much lift and its going to be my mud slut :D, and thanks for the info it will be quite handy in the future with mods. Also ive read that in order to run 40s its recommended to have 12 in of lift right/wrong?
 
I assume you're upgrading axles, steering, etc to run that big of a tire.

You don't need near that much lift to clear 40's. Lots of guys on here do it with 4" of lift and cutting.
 
Yes im going all 3/4 ton with bigger gears, well idk if 8" would work because i really dont want to cut anything visable to the eye
 
8" of lift and no cutting 37" is as big as you can go with no rubbing . I have 38.5" boggers on a 8" al spring lift and my fronts hit the fenders when I turn
 
So 12" lift is the size to go with in order to not have to cut anything then right?
 
Yeah but it'll be so damn stiff you wont wanna drive it 8" 10" and 12" lifts bring the suck. It's ugly ass Camo CUCV why not cut the fenders??
 
Well i would cut if I knew for a fact that i could do it almost perfect on both sides without making it look like crap, never cut fenders before and alittle nervous about it. Any tips, BTW this is a learning experince im used to working on jeeps
 
If I could cut my truck to fit narrow 38's with 1" of lift anyone can.
 
Trimming is easy lots of articles on here about it I use the Milwakee power shears to do all mine it works better than a Sawzall.

Anyways just Lay it out on one fender with a sharpie and then take some paper and make a templte for the other side to get them even

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I assume you're upgrading axles, steering, etc to run that big of a tire.

You don't need near that much lift to clear 40's. Lots of guys on here do it with 4" of lift and cutting.


I'm going ask this at the risk of showing just how green I am in the 4X4 world, but I was wonder why it wouldn't be possible to do a 4" lift by just adding lifting block under the leaf springs on the front and back, just like the rear of a Rancho lift.

I just bought an M1009 and am trying to find the cheapest and easiest way to do a 4" lift. I believe 4" should be plenty for 35's, huh?
 
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I'll bite, but may I ask why? Is it because of too much torque or strain while banking?
Just doing all I can to gather the info I need before I start tearing into this trucks undercarriage. Thanks for the Reply.
 

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