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Body Lift

k20

k20

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Posts
5,067
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Location
Mineral Springs, NC
Ok, well i got 2 (too poor for 4 right now) 35" SSR's for christmas. Anyway, I mounted em on the front for a test fit and can already see im gonna need a 2" body lift and POSSIBLY the 2" extended Hill 4wd Shackles. I'll probably do the body lift first, since i think that will give me enough clearance. My 3 questions are these. In the 2" flavor, what body lift is best bang for the buck? Which has strongest components, and the best instructions etc. Next is, when i ('less i decide to pay to install it) do the lift, should i replace my body mounts? Ive looked at them all and they all look almost perfect, no cracks visible and no chunks missing. Finally, how hard is it to install a 2" kit (with or w/out replacing the body mounts)? Will i have to lengthen any linkages for transfer case or the transmission? Also ive seen a steering column extension on some 2" kits but not others. What is that about? Is it needed? Ok, sorry for the length, and apparent lack of knowledge (which i do lack) but i dont want to start this thing, and warp body panels, break wiring (which i hate wiring btw), or screw up all the linkages, and then have no way to get it to a shop that quoted me $375 for the kit and install. Which btw is that a good price? Also since its a long bed does it have extra body mounts? Thanks again.
 
I prefer a suspension lift personally. But a body lift is do-able. I see 2" and 3" body lift kits in magazines for under $100.00 all the time. I belive you will need to leaghtn your linkages and steering shaft.
 
well i got the suspension lift already, i dont really have $800 to upgrade again, and then lengthen the driveshafts this time around, They are close as it is.
 
When you do a body lift, you should replace the body mounts. I recommend polyurathane. I think you'd be stupid not to. It's too easy to do it while you're there.

Honestly for a 4" and 35s to work all you need to do is hack your fenders a bit. Even at 6" of lift you might have to cut your fenders. If you lift it more, it might be harder for your tires to hit the fenders, but if you 'wheel it, it's only a matter of time before they do hit. A 35" tire just doesn't fit into the stock fender. You can either cut them or let your tires smash them....your choice.

I wish I'd cut mine before my fenders had cut my new tires.
 
Your profile says you have a 4in lift on it already instead of the body lift you could just trim your fenders a little.
On my 83 I have a 2.5 lift with a 1in body with 35 BFG's All I did was cut the fenders.

Eric
 
Yeh, i thought about that, but i dont really like the looks of the trimmed fenders, yeh i know im too picky, and if my truck had just that tad-bit-o rust i wouldnt hesitate, but i think even if i didnt mind trimming a bit i am gonna hafta cut a good bit on the back, and the front of the wheel well.
 
but i believe, (prolly wrong) that if i lift it the 2 more i wont have to do a complete hack job, like i will DEFINATELY have to do now. Im uploading some pics right now of it all, whenever they show they will be at the below link, in my truck now 2 folder. Also if i appear to be following this post by post, i am, because i have nothing to do tonite.
 
I understand how you feel about the trim job. If you go with the 2in lift and you do it yourself you will have to trim the fan shroud the tranny linkage will have to messed with and you mite have to get a new gas tank filler hose, And while your at it I would change the body mounts at the same time.
For 375 that mite not be to bad as long as they do a good job.
By the way those are some good looking tires and wheels


Eirc
 
I have a 4 + 3 on my 86, and we had to extend the linkage on the transfer case, cut the bottom off the fan shroud, but nothing to the gas lines- filler whatever thingy..

Also- with 4+3, you won't have to cut for 35's...mine had 35's on it when I bought it, went down to 33's with the 1/2 ton axles- but will be going back up to 35's in February...then again, I guess it's all in how much flex your going to be doing..

Brandy
 
on a body lift, these are some general what to do, the fan shroud will have to have the bottom cut out, unless it is a two piece, then you can make some spacers to lengthen it 2 inches, the steering shaft has 2 plastic pins in it that will need to be drilled out or melted out or out somehow, the shaft will then extend, it made that way to be collapsible upon impact, some recommend drilling and replacing the pins, but i have never done so and will not the next time, it is preference, the body lift kit will include a 2 inch piece of rod to be welded into your transmission shift linkage if it is an automatic, you can take a piece of strap and drill 4 holes to lengthen your transfer case shifter if you want, you may also have to trim some sheetmetal around your shifter opening in the floor, a pickup kit will have 14 blocks in it, regardless whether long or short, and will also come with some square spacers to be welded between the frame and bed if you are so inclined, and replacing the body mounts is an easy thing to do while you are adding the body lift, it is easier to do one side at a time and go slow and check and watch any wires that you feel are going to be stretched too tight, generally the instructions are pretty straight forward, body lifts are pretty much the same regardless of manufacture being made from poly-bicarbonate blocks although trailmaster used to make some in aluminum also, and lastly these come up on ebay fairly regular or go with performance accessories or even summit has their own branded kit, which is prolly made by someone else,anything else just ask /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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