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Body mount torque

So should I let my impact wrench loose on them or do it by hand?
 
I would do them by hand and make them damn tight, no real torque spec i believe i dont think it really matters just as long and the rubber is smooshed and they are tight enough there not gunna let loose.
 
Ok I guess I will have whip out my breaker bar and tighten the hell out of them.

Thanks guys ;)
 
I know this thread is a little older, but one of my cab mounts (K30, single cab) broke the other day. I replaced the old ones with new poly bushings about 3 months ago and tightened them really well.
Now while offroading the hole in one of the bottom cups teared out (what a bang!!) and the lower mount fell down. Is this because i tightened them too much or couldn't the 22 years old rusty cups just withstand any longer?

Thanks in advance.
Walter
 
dieselponyexpress said:
I know this thread is a little older, but one of my cab mounts (K30, single cab) broke the other day. I replaced the old ones with new poly bushings about 3 months ago and tightened them really well.
Now while offroading the hole in one of the bottom cups teared out (what a bang!!) and the lower mount fell down. Is this because i tightened them too much or couldn't the 22 years old rusty cups just withstand any longer?

Thanks in advance.
Walter
Click to expand...
i'd say probably the cup was deteriorated. mine looked fine and i reused them but there were a couple that came out in pieces when i took the bolts loose to install the body lift. my advice would to just use huge flat washers or find the cups in an LMC book. that's probably what imma do
 
can't be too tight. Your body and your engine are supposed to stay where you put them. If it wasn't rust it might have worked loose a little, the free play allowing for more force... My bet would be on rust though.
 
An instruction sheet I got way back in the early 90's from Energy Suspension states to torque the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. so there can still be a slight flex.

All the instructions I've gotten in the later years didn't have any torque readings. So, I'm sticking with 85 ft. lbs.
 
thatK30guy said:
An instruction sheet I got way back in the early 90's from Energy Suspension states to torque the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. so there can still be a slight flex.

All the instructions I've gotten in the later years didn't have any torque readings. So, I'm sticking with 85 ft. lbs.
Click to expand...


Ok, I will torque them all to 85 ft. lbs., maybe using some locktite on the bolts. The original rubber bushings are way more flexible, even full torqued.

Thanks again guys!

Walter
 
Thought of this thread as I was browsing the '91 R/V manual.

Core support nuts are 35 ft lbs
Cab mounts are 55 ft lbs for bolts, 35 ft lbs for nuts.
 
I was looking at the Energy Systems instructions and found this line:
When all mounts and hardware are installed, torque all bolts to factory
specifications.

According to the service manual, the body mounts are torqued from 35 to 55 ft - lbs depending on truck model and location.

For the K5:
Position #1 - 35 ft-lbs
Position #2 - 55 ft-lbs
Position #3 - 45 ft-lbs
Position #4 - 35 ft-lbs
Position #5 - 35 ft-lbs
 
That would be a great question for ORD in the vendor section. I'm getting ready to order a 1" body lift, so the information would be good to have.
 
dyeager535 said:
Thought of this thread as I was browsing the '91 R/V manual.

Core support nuts are 35 ft lbs
Cab mounts are 55 ft lbs for bolts, 35 ft lbs for nuts.
Click to expand...
This is correct according to page 217 in the 1991 factory r/v manual in the Cab Mount Replacement section.1991 Specs: Tighten• Bolts to 75 N*m (55 ft. lbs.).• Nuts to 47 N»m (35 ft. lbs.). These are the values I'm going to use on a 78 K5 as I have not been able to locate the specs for a 1978 K5.
 
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