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Body mounts

B

Bob87Burb

1/2 ton status
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As the title states, I'm going through the displeasure of replacing my body mounts with Energy Suspension mounts.


Problem 1--The kit did not come with bolts or washers. It says to re-use the stockers, however 4 of mine are missing, and two more are rusted beyond recognition. Is there any other source of mounts that does include the hardware? If not, is the only place to get the hardware the dealer?

Problem 2--I'm guessing that there's nuts spot welded inside the channels that the mounts go onto. I've got a few bolts that are spinning, but not loosening, and one that broke. Is there any way to access the nut? Cut a hole in the floor maybe?

Problem 3--I've got two frame to bushing brackets, near the shock mounts, that are rotted out. Any ideas where to get these, or am I better off fabbing some?

Thanks in advance,

Bob
 
As far as bolts I know LMC can ship you stockers but dont know about the buchings if they are the same as a 91 but some of mine where just nut inserts in they body.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm avoiding LMC like the plague (had a bad experience with them once), and I've learned from Tim of Tim's Offroad that the bolts are nothing special, just 1/2-13 Grade 8's will do fine.

My local dealer can get the cup washers, so all I need to do now is figure out how many are junk and buy the new ones.
 
however 4 of mine are missing,
Click to expand...
4 of them arent missing. GM designed it that way... dont ask why they just did. there are 14 mounts on a suburban and only 10 actually use bolts in em... the other 4 just use bushings that click into he frame and body
 
Yep, figgered that out pretty quick, the 4 I was referring to were the ones in positions 2 and 3 (according to Energy's diagram). Basically, the two sets after the rad support ones.


This is turning out to be a fun project,plenty of cutting, heating, bashing and rust. Good to take out the frustrations of the day. :)
 
I had the same problem with the washers and bolts and I also had some spining and some that were broke. I took a hole saw to drill a hole above the mounts that would not unbolt and then cut it bigger to acess the nut inside the body suports. as for the bolts normaly grade 8 bolts will work fine, and the washers you can get from gm
 
Well, the project's been done for a few weeks now. I ended up getting all new washers from GM, and I had to cut two holes in the passenger's side floor to access the nuts. The one in the floor between the front and second row of seats was easy, it's already dimpled from the factory, so all I had to do was hole saw it. :) For the brackets I mentioned in the first post, I've found that they're discontinued from GM, and I really didn't feel like searching for aftermarket or used ones, so I fabbed up some of my own.

So far so good. No more creaks or weird noises, and oddly enough all the doors lined back up where they're supposed to be. I'm very satisfied with the outcome, although I wish I had known of the hardware issue beforehand. It took about three days longer due to having to wait for parts. :crazy:
 
Good to hear it all worked out for you. I reluctantly purchased the complete rubber bushing kit from LMC, and was actually surprised by the quality. It even had about 6 parts in original GM packaging. I ran into the same prob. as you with the bolts breaking off, but the truck is set aside for now. Maybe someday I will continue.
 
It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, just needed some "creative engineering". The brackets were easy to make, and now that it's all in and done, there's no more squeeks, rattles, etc. Once I sound deaden the bed area and floors, and redo the weatherstripping, she should quiet down quite a bit!
 
i was going to do a 1" lift and neew mounts, useing the ord pucks and was wondering how you lift the bushings?

whould you need longer ones or.?
 
I'm not positive how they do the body lifts, but I could take a guess that the body lift is a spacer that would go between the bracket and body, in addition to the original mount that's there. At least that's how I think ORD's kit works. You'd need longer bolts as well, using a body lift kit. Not sure if ORD includes them or not.

Once you get the hardware loosened up, getting the actual mount out is easy. Here's what I did, per the instructions:

Loosened fasteners on both sides

Removed them on one side

Used a block of wood and floor jack on the cab floor, and jacked up the body on that side. No need to go nuts, just jack it enough to get the old mount out, and new mount in.

Once all the new mounts are in, let the body down.

Install new fasteners on the first side and leave them loose.

Jack the other side, repeat jacking up the body/replacement of mounts.

Let down the second side, install fasteners, and make sure the body alignment is correct. On my Burb, there's corresponding holes in the two forwardmost cab brackets, and the body. I used those to move the body back into alignment (mine shifted forward a little), then I tightened all the fasteners.

It's actually really easy to do, once you get past all the rusted fastener BS.
 
yeah i know that, i was just unclear on the lift and the spacers that snap into the fram and body, i would think you would need ones mad up that were taller, or some sort of spacer that would extend the stock size one.
 
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