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Body mounts

J

jimmyjack

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 11, 2000
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Location
Tucson Az
I've got a bad noise coming from under the blazer near the front. Doesn't make any noise on asphalt but on dirt roads it klanks and klunks and rattles. I've got brand new tie rod ends, drag link ends, and a new steering box and new ball joints. The shocks are tight, motor and tranny mounts are good, the fenders and skirts are tight. The only thing I can think of is the body mount bushings. If anyone can throw me a bone I'd appreciate it. They look like a pain in the ass to change.

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
I just crawled out from under my blazer and the u bolts and the bumper and grill are all tight too. I did find a crack in the cross member next to the motor mount on the pass. side. Also, I had a pretty healthy power steering leak and the driver side spring is awfully wet. The bushing are dry so I know they're still in good shape. Any thoughts on the spring being saturated in p/s fluid?

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
they arent that bad, unless you have RUST issues. Then the bolts are a bitch. (ask me how i know) look at the mounts and check to see if there are 2 pieces of rubber, one above and 1 below the mount surface (part that attaches to the frame) Also check to see if the buttom cup washer is there. on 4 of my front mounts, the cup washers were gone, and the rubber had rotted away enough to just lift thru the mount section allowing the body to leave the frame. If you're gonna do them, id suggest going with polyurethane mounts from energy susp. or daystar. Might as well do it right the first time. The way to change them is to loosen all of the mounts on the truck and then jack the body up one side at a time. use a wide piece of wood to spread the load, and lift it high enuff to remove the mounts from that side and replace them. Then lower and repeat on the other side. I think the bolts get torqued to like 90 ft/lbs. The most difficult ones are the radiator supports (because you need a wrench on the top AND bottom,) and the rear ones by the gas tank (just cause they are a bitch to get to.) good luck, pm me if i can help with any thing else. I just did mine over with the ES kit last week.

-matt
<font color=blue>86, 350, 33's</font color=blue><font color=red>Lop Sop Doi Off-Road</font color=red>
www.chevyhedk5.tripod.com
 
ooops. looks like i wasnt fast enough...

where is the leak from? id be pissed if it was the new box...and the wet spring should be fine. but find the leak.

A thought to finding the noise- jack it up so no weight is on the suspension, then check all the stuff again. it may seem tight with the turcks weight on it, but lifting the load might show a loose part that moved when you bounce down the trail. just an idea.

-matt
<font color=blue>86, 350, 33's</font color=blue><font color=red>Lop Sop Doi Off-Road</font color=red>
www.chevyhedk5.tripod.com&gt;www.chevyhedk5.tripod.com<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by shaggyk5 on 11/12/01 07:32 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Ok, I went to desert rat earlier today and bought an energy suspension kit for $93 (good deal?). I was able to get a few of the reachable ones broken loose. I can see where the radiator is gonna be a bitch, and the gas tank. They looked a little worse for the wear but they were solid. The rear ones were split but again were solid. The bottoms of the cab mounts were a little spongy, is that normal? Do I need to replace the body shims with the new mounts? They're only on top of the cab mounts on both sides but nowhere else. What's up with that?

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
The leak was fixed weeks ago, just residual fluid.

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
put the shims back right where they came from when you install the new kit. They keep everything level.
For the radiator, i just put a wrench on the top side and then cranked from the bottom. Worked ok (till i broke the rusty bolt...
smile.gif
) The gas tank ones are just hard to get to, and you might have to move the jack to the back to get them high enough to move apart. If worse comes to worse and you cant get to them you might have to lower the tank out of the way.
The old mounts should be a little spongey, but if they are cracking and dry, its only a matter of time.
On reassembly, make sure you put never-sieze on the bolts, and COAT the mounts with moly grease. Otherwise you will get the dreaded polyurethane squeak.

93 dollars is a little under the avg. price for the kit. I got it for 80 with an employee discount. Ive seen it as high as 120.


-matt
<font color=blue>86, 350, 33's</font color=blue><font color=red>Lop Sop Doi Off-Road</font color=red>
www.chevyhedk5.tripod.com
 
cool, Desert Rat is pretty fair about what they charge. I dread dropping the tank. Its a 31 gallon pig and its covered in armor. Hopefully my hitch won't be in the way cos its welded to the frame!

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
Thats a whole lot cheaper! If anyones near Tucson and feels like changing body mounts, feel free to give me a call. I really want nothing to do with this!

That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
Jim
 
Ive said this before and I'll say it again. DISCONNECT EVERYTHING.

Sterring, Ground Wires from motor and Trans Shifter, T-case box-to-body.
and any thing that I forgot. I learned the hard way and didn't disconnect the shift linkage and bent it.

Have fun. Also be prepaired to put in new bolts. I live in CA and we don't have Salt on the roads but they were still Rusted GOOD.

Later KEN

DANGIT it's not a bronco!
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/kensk5>My Picts</a>
 
i didnt disconnect anything, and it was ok, but it probably cant hurt. Actually now that you say something, the shifter does feel a little strange going into park, but everything still works.

I hear ya on the bolt replacement. I ended up reusing 1 of 6 bolts. and the new bolts were not cheap either. (although i did buy them from the dealer......)

-matt
<font color=blue>86, 350, 33's</font color=blue><font color=red>Lop Sop Doi Off-Road</font color=red>
www.chevyhedk5.tripod.com
 
Ya the dealer will grab ya right where it counts.
shocked.gif
smile.gif

The reason that I am so stuborn(sp) is that when I didn't disconnect the shift linkage. I bent Stuff and now I'm unable to shift down into 1st. It sucks when wheelen down a steep hill I am unable to use the Trany and have to use the break more.

It was a fun job though.
late KEN

DANGIT it's not a bronco!
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/kensk5>My Picts</a>
 
I just installed new body mounts from ORD last weekend with my 1" ORD body lift. The polyurethane kit was $95 and the body lift was about $70. IF YOU THINK YOU WILL EVER WANT/NEED A BODY LIFT, DO IT AT THE ASME TIME. This isn't something you want to do twice!

But, don't let that scare you, it isn't too tough. The front mounts be the grill take a little time, but aren't too bad. The kit I had required reuse of the factory washers and stuff. Sometimes it was difficult getting the factory rubber out of the original washers and sleeves. I ended up skipping the rear mounts as I will have to drop the tank. The fuel tank and my hitch platform prevented me from being able to get the factory rubber out.

Here is what to be careful about... The 2nd and 3rd positions, the ones under the main part of the cab, thread up into caged nuts hidden in an enclosed body support member. There is no way to get inside this support member. Be VERY CAREFUL not to break the cage loose. One of mine busted the cage when trying to remove it. We had to drill a 2 inch hole in the tub after precisely measuring the location to get to the caged nut. It then took about 30 minutes of work to tear the cage out and drill out the nut. If you can avoid it, this isn't something you want to do.

Another nice thing about installing the ORD body lift is that it came with all new bolts. My original front bolts were pretty torn up from wear and rust.

Brian
Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
 
If the crack is in any area that will allow the motor to "drop" a bit more than stock, check your balancer to see if it is hitting the crossmember. I've seen a '74 4WD with both of the bolt (or riveted) on motor mount "perches" cracked, and the motor "sagged" so much that the balancer was hitting the crossmember.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
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