Body removal ideas

[Magikal]

Ok. I just bought another k5 and want to do another build. As part of this I want to remove the body so I can access the chassis easier. I have a lot to do and it will be do much nicer to work on without the body on. Problem is that I no longer have access to a shop or garage. Basically doing this in the driveway. Looking for ideas/suggestions as to the best way to go about removing the body in a safe realistic manner.

 

[dremu]

It's been discussed; it's kinda like doing a body lift, only you gotta support BOTH sides of the body in the end Were it me I'd do a pair of 55 gallon drums on the sides and two 4x4's underneath the tub, one centered under the doors and the other around the rear axle. With the doors removed (80+ pounds each), the tailgate off and the top stashed (another 200 ?), the tub proper is almost manageable.

At the very least I'd do 2x4's vertically on something sturdier than cinder blocks or paint buckets. Stack lumber and nail it together if you have to.

In a perfect world you'd have a set of crappy rims without tires you can roll the chassis out on nice and low. At least a set of stock sized tires as rollers.

-- A

 

[diesel4me]

It can be done,but without the right equipment its a lot more likely "safely" will be tougher....
A gantry crane is a good way to lift a truck body off the frame,I know you say you don't have one,but a suitable one could be made out of timbers properly joined together,or large pipes,etc..

A few guys I know use nothing more than 4 heavy duty sawhorses made of channel iron and 6x6 timbers --they jack the body up enough to slide a timber under it and support it with the sawhorses --some have used 55 gallon drums filled with enough water to stabilize them also instead of sawhorses..

The hardest part is getting the body jacked up that high--its a tedious process--jack it up,stuff some 2x4's or blocks between the frame and body,and add another block to the jack,and repeat...after it gets high enough for you to put the timers under the body and across the horses or barrels,is when its very unstable and the most dangerous..

Some have used an engine hoist to do one end at a time,but the single hook lifting point can be hazardous once its up high enough--put bolts in the chain links against the hooks so it cant slide to one side unexpectedly...also be sure the place you attach the chain can withstand the weight of the body...having one rip out suddenly can be fatal..

The easiest way to lift one is with a bucket loader,forklift,backhoe,or excavator,but the risk of damage is increased using heavy equipment..

 

[dyeager535]

Search doesn't seem to be working well at all, even google.

Someone even created a hoist setup that was used on the back end of the tub, which allowed you to focus on raising/supporting the front end, instead of trying to do both ends.

I may go that route, but I suspect I may end up with 4x4's underneath the truck. My thought was to use pallets (lots of them) stacked on top of each other, which would allow raising the body one pallet thickness at a time. For stability two pallets per corner could be used for the first couple of levels, then a single pallet in the middle as you go up. Screw them together for a bit of extra security.

If planning to lift the body completely off with the engine in place, realize the floor pan at its lowest point will have to clear the highest part of the engine, which will end up with the body quite far off the ground.

 

[Magikal]

Great suggestions. Some realistic and some that make me cringe at the thought. I was thinking the sawhorses and timber idea already also. I have to keep in mind that I must also put the body back on also. This is a two way street. Obviously I will lighten the load as much as possible (remove doors, top, etc), motor will be in still (at least when putting it back together, part of the build is installing a 454-vortec )). , things I plan in doing while body is off: 454-vortec install, 52's up front, 64's in the rear, change fuel system to accommodate the vortec, reinforce gear box with weld in plate and brace, attach my solid front and rear bumpers, I would like to box in the front section of frame as I really tore up the front left section on my current k5, swap in my axles (14bff rear, d60 front), any driveline modifications as needed, roll bar mounts, rock sliders, and whatever else I am not thinking if at the moment. Point being that putting the body back on I have a feeling is gonna take a few attempts of raising and lowering.....lol....probably some busted knuckles, blood and several beers. :-D

 

[dyeager535]

I've done a body swap before, and had it fall off. Luckily not very high up, and no one was hurt, but it damaged the straight body.

Personally I'm not going to use anything that doesn't provide a fair margin of safety. I also have no intention of removing the front clip, so that makes my job a lot harder. If you take the front clip off, and pull the frame out through the front, you won't have to lift it as high. Believe the lowest point then will be the lower edge of the body that will need to clear the tires/wheels. I'd probably consider dropping it onto the drums/rotors if they are to be replaced as well, and you can pull it with something.

I plan to make mine strong/stable enough to be able to leave the body at the same height so I can put another frame/engine under it, so stability is more critical I suppose. If you don't plan to keep it up that high, sturdy supports (but much shorter) and the rear crane idea will probably be fine. I was thinking that an engine hoist through the back end would probably work well too, as long as it's lift was enough for what you need to do.

FWIW, one of the guys here planned to start work on a frame boxing kit for the later K5 frames (whenever the frame changed to the last variant) and already has one for the earlier 70's K5 frames, for the money they are worth it. Cutting and grinding steel sheet to fit the frame is a PITA. If you have a truck with the later frame, let me know and I'll ask where he is on that project, if it interests you.

 

[Magikal]

I have done frame swap on this k5 before also but at the time I had access to a shop with a very high ceiling. We ran couple chain hosts down and used a couple trucker straps around the body. Worked like a champ. Unfortunately that shop is history now. You did spark an idea though and that is to Jack the roof up as far as I can with my basic jacks, shim up the body enough to slide times through onto saw horses and then lower frame down via removing wheels down to the hubs. Remove the front clip and this just may work. On assembly I have a set of crap rims (No rubber) I could use on my axles so it could roll still. What ya all think? Feasible?

 

[dyeager535]

As long as the sawhorses are sturdy enough. Many will collapse or tear the screws/nails out with any front/rear motion, so for this idea, side to side could be an issue.

I put crossbraces on them and it helps, but you are relying on screw/steel hinge strength, not lumber strength.

 

[Magikal]

I am s 20+ year carpenter. I have a very stout saw horse design. It has been used to hold up a hot tub in each corner and then filled with water (friend was searching for a leak), with not the slightest issue. Yes, sway brace on the horse is a must. I think if it could hold that weight then a k5 body should be no problem

 

[vandelay industries]

It can be done,but without the right equipment its a lot more likely "safely" will be tougher....
A gantry crane is a good way to lift a truck body off the frame,I know you say you don't have one,but a suitable one could be made out of timbers properly joined together,or large pipes,etc..

A few guys I know use nothing more than 4 heavy duty sawhorses made of channel iron and 6x6 timbers --they jack the body up enough to slide a timber under it and support it with the sawhorses --some have used 55 gallon drums filled with enough water to stabilize them also instead of sawhorses..

The hardest part is getting the body jacked up that high--its a tedious process--jack it up,stuff some 2x4's or blocks between the frame and body,and add another block to the jack,and repeat...after it gets high enough for you to put the timers under the body and across the horses or barrels,is when its very unstable and the most dangerous..

Some have used an engine hoist to do one end at a time,but the single hook lifting point can be hazardous once its up high enough--put bolts in the chain links against the hooks so it cant slide to one side unexpectedly...also be sure the place you attach the chain can withstand the weight of the body...having one rip out suddenly can be fatal..

The easiest way to lift one is with a bucket loader,forklift,backhoe,or excavator,but the risk of damage is increased using heavy equipment..

i actually "built" a gantry crane for another project from pipes,
this:
http://www.hollaender.com/?page=speedrail

and the hoist from horror freight.

Worked pretty good although i probably wasn't dealing with as much weight as a blazer body.