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Bolt Extraction

MassMan

MassMan

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 20, 2010
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Location
Massachusetts
Hey everyone. My goodwrench crate 350 is halfway through a head gasket replacement and i've run into a snag. i'm currently down to the block, staring at the pistons. knowing i'd have to rotate the engine at 90* intervals to adjust the valve rockers, i decided to make sure i could turn the engine via the crankshaft pulley bolt. the first and only time i did this before, i had some trouble keeping a socket on the bolt, as it had been rounded off quite a bit by the previous owner. it now seems to be too far gone. i can't get a grip on that bolt at all now, and replacement seems necessary.

i've tried all the usual methods of removing a suborn bolt. since wrenches and sockets can't grip it, i tried vice grips. the issue is that the bolt is set so far into the pulley that i can't get a solid grip on it. i also tried a set of those special sockets for difficult bolts:
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Bo...AX8C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1294437141&sr=8-6

those seem to grab ok when i put them on by hand, but they just pop off when i try to put any pressure on them. i also thought i could use one of those extractors that reverse-threads into a drilled hole into the bolt, but all my attempts at drilling a hole into that evil thing have failed. all i have is a bunch of dull drill bits and a stubborn bolt.

access looks to be the biggest issue, and it's hard to work on something you can't even see. has anyone run into this problem before? i've heard that the best way to remove these bolts is with placing a breaker bar against the frame and tapping the starter. if it's that hard to remove when a socket fits, what are the chances of getting mine out? :confused:
 
one method ive heard of in extreme cases is to actually weld something onto the end of the bolt that you can grab onto. basically if the bolt is too short to grab.. make it longer.
 
NEVER TURN THE CRANK VIA THE CRANK BOLT :doah:


couat the end of the crank in some grease and hang a wet shop rag over it.

then weld a big nut on the rounded head. let this cool then try and spin it out. and if you can get a nut that will fit over the rounded head then thats best.
 
sweetk30 said:
NEVER TURN THE CRANK VIA THE CRANK BOLT :doah:


couat the end of the crank in some grease and hang a wet shop rag over it.

then weld a big nut on the rounded head. let this cool then try and spin it out. and if you can get a nut that will fit over the rounded head then thats best.
Click to expand...


AMEN :doah:
 
yeah, i've got the alternator and PS pump off with the heads/intake, but everything else is on the engine, in the truck. i managed to get one of those socket things on the bolt nice and tight, but i can't turn the bolt without tuning the engine. i tried wrapping the pulley in electrical cable and tied it to the frame, but the cable broke before the bolt moved.

on a related note, if not by this bolt, how DO you turn an engine? i've never needed to do turn the engine before, and if there isn't a need to turn this bolt, i'll leave it in place.
 
how do you use those crank turning nuts? everything i see about them online mentions engine building. do they work on a fully assembled engine?
 
MassMan said:
how do you use those crank turning nuts? everything i see about them online mentions engine building. do they work on a fully assembled engine?
Click to expand...

The one I have mounts onto the harmonic balancer where the pulley mounts...you have to remove the pulley first.
 
ah, so the bolt still has to come off. well, i'll keep working at it. anybody know if it's a special part or can i just buy any old grade-8 bolt and throw it in there?
 
MassMan said:
ah, so the bolt still has to come off. well, i'll keep working at it. anybody know if it's a special part or can i just buy any old grade-8 bolt and throw it in there?
Click to expand...

I bought some bolt extractors from Harbor freight, they are like a socket, and go over the bolt weather it has a head or not it has a cam inside and grabs it like a pipe wrench.
 
thanks for the help everyone. i've wrapped some heavy-gauge plastic coated cable around the pulley and tied it to the frame. i'm having a hard time getting the extractor to bite into the bolt again, but it's dark and cold so i'm going to leave it for tomorrow. wish me luck.
 
i will say it again heat is your friend and new hex to grip with a socket will be your friend.

so ( weld a big nut on the rounded head. let this cool then try and spin it out. and if you can get a nut that will fit over the rounded head then thats best. )
 
If you can get something on the flywheel ring gear to lock it that should stop the eng from turning. Where are you located, I have a flywheel turning tool use could use if you have 2 people.
 
Wont let u down

i have had this problem many times to, heres the one set of socket that is a must, they even go with me when u four wheel. this is what i call a "money maker tool". they r impact great and well wurth the money. when u place the socket on the rounded off nut or bolt, place the sock on the bolt then ightly hammer it on to the bolt while gently applying a counter clock wise rotation on the socket with a breaker bar till it is fully seated on the nut. place impact on to the socket, ONLY bump the trigger, it will grab and bring the bolt strait out. time and time again these sockets have saved me countless dollars and they r LIFETIME WARRANTY.

Sears Item# 00952165000 | Model# 52165
 
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