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books or manuals on gear installations?

CAROLINAK5

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want to atleast try it once for the heck of it. are there any manuals i could get that will help me along? i'm fairly handy in the repair dept. but have never touched a job like this.



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I have found this to be a good read...although i have yet to try my own gear install.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.differentials.com/techi.html> gear swap </a>

Rene

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The Jan 2002 issue of Car Craft has a blurb on a video that shows you how to set up gears. It available from:

Tehcnical Video
Dept CC0201
16325 E Lincoln Dr.
Fall Creek WI 54742

888-785-2604
715-877-2604

Doesn't say how much is costs. But it says they cover GM 10 and 12 bolts, For 9-inch, Chrysler 8 3/4 inch, Dann 44 open carrier, Dana 44 and Dana 60 Trac-Loc and a Toyota diff.
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Its not hard, just time comsuming and you need special tools to set the backlash. You also need a bearing press to press on the pinion bearing.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&35"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
we just got finished doing a swap on a 14 bolt, first time for me too. this is what we had to work w/. Movie on swapping gears from Rnady's Ring &amp; Pinion. The Haynes manual from auto zone and the Chevy Shop Manual. Also got a little help from Wes (ThatK30Guy). The books helped a lot but a person that has done it a few times would be the most helpful.

Sun Desert Offroad <a target="_blank" href=http://4x4.alloffroad.com>4x4.alloffroad.com</a>
 
Tools- a good press and a bearing removal tool
Dial indicator with magnetic base
A inch pound dial torque wrench to set pinion bearing preload (roughly 25-inch pounds of rotational torque).
A good breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater bar (helps when you go to start the crush sleeve).
A brake cylinder hone. When you remove the old pinion bearing take care not to damage it. Hone out the inner portion until it will just slide over the new pinion. This is useful when setting the new pinion depth.
A good drift punch to drive out the old pinion races, and a good long brass punch to seat the new races.
Micrometer and a permanent marker. Measure and mark the thickness of all the shims you'll get in the install kit.
A ton-o-patience, 'nuff said.
And while you have it apart, change the outer wheel bearings and seals if you haven't already.
Best bet is to do the front first to overcome the learning curve. It'll take you about 10 hours. Then do the rear, you'll have it down to about 4 to 6 hours by then.
 
Oops, forgot to mention that we had all the berings pressed on and pinion preload set at a shop

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