CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Bootleg Crossover
- Thread starter 78 k5
- Start date
I thought about that but I thought it may be to damaging to the tierods. I was thinking about it after seeing it on my friends jeep that we just swapped a d44 into. But if that works I'm deff interested in doing it that way
surpip
1 ton status
here is the ford:
what makes it eaiser for the fors is that the stering box is farther forward on the frame than ours, but im shure with a little booty fab you could make it work fine, on the cheap , till you can afford d60+crossover, no need to spend the big bucks twice, thats for shure
what makes it eaiser for the fors is that the stering box is farther forward on the frame than ours, but im shure with a little booty fab you could make it work fine, on the cheap , till you can afford d60+crossover, no need to spend the big bucks twice, thats for shure
sled_dog
1 ton status
Coil springs are the thing that makes it easiest 
The pictures 88K5Jimmy posted is the rig that belongs to a member I was refering to. Still can't remember his screenname, but thats the one I was thinking of.
The pictures 88K5Jimmy posted is the rig that belongs to a member I was refering to. Still can't remember his screenname, but thats the one I was thinking of.
surpip
1 ton status
well the basic idea is there, justs need a little work to adapt it is all
85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
I dont like that setup, your whole draglink will pretty much be one big S, not to mention theres just alot of stuff there to get smashed by rocks.
But for normal crossover on a 10b you need BOTH knuckles off a D44. With the D44 knuckles you cant use a 10b tie rod cause it will hit the springs. So you have 2 options. Run a tie rod from a D44 or get zero rates under the springs for the clearance.
But for normal crossover on a 10b you need BOTH knuckles off a D44. With the D44 knuckles you cant use a 10b tie rod cause it will hit the springs. So you have 2 options. Run a tie rod from a D44 or get zero rates under the springs for the clearance.
surpip
1 ton status
its is just a temp fix, till he could get the dana 60 and cross over he wanted
just an idea
just an idea
85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
I wouldnt want a temp fix for my STEERING. In my opinion this isnt a place to skimp 
idf_johnny
Registered Member
85mudblazin said:I wouldnt want a temp fix for my STEERING. In my opinion this isnt a place to skimp
I am also lookng for an inexpensive alternative for xover, so I have to ask. Correctly done with a short lift, how would this be a "skimp"
Factory trucks came with this style steering. If there are no clearance issues, and the drag link isn't drasticly bent how is this unsafe? I want to be safe but hate wasting money on turd polish
It's realy more of an issue with GM's. The angles get bad with any brand when lifted, but its worse due to the GMs being spring over. To clear the leafsprings you can't get the DLE out to the end of the tierod. The Fords are coil front and have no issues w/ interferance. Jeeps, including FSJs, are spring under so it works OK there, too. We used this set-up when swapping a J10 D44 into the front of a Z-71. Keeping it spring-under allowed it work just fine. Its been on there around three yrs, running 35s the entire time, w/o any issues. Of course, YMMV.
Geargrinder
1/2 ton status
Uhhhhhhhh......... Ummm..... Wellllllllllllll...........
I don't even have any words to use for that.......uuuumm....."TRUCK"
But I will say that the x-over with the tie rod CAN be done right and strong, I built one for a cust. about 5 years ago and have had NO problems with it, I used 1 3/4" DOM with a .500 wall, and drilled the knuckles out to take 3/4" rod ends. Made a new tie rod and new drag link with the DOM and bloted them to the pass. side knuckle. He wheels the truck on a regular bassis and has had no problems with it.
I don't even have any words to use for that.......uuuumm....."TRUCK"
But I will say that the x-over with the tie rod CAN be done right and strong, I built one for a cust. about 5 years ago and have had NO problems with it, I used 1 3/4" DOM with a .500 wall, and drilled the knuckles out to take 3/4" rod ends. Made a new tie rod and new drag link with the DOM and bloted them to the pass. side knuckle. He wheels the truck on a regular bassis and has had no problems with it.
78 k5
1/2 ton status
The info is great....keep the pics comming, I'm always up for trying something a little different to save some $$$$$$ and since my truck never see's more than 10mph i'm not worried if something gives 
78 k5
1/2 ton status
BTW....what pitman arm will work on the 2wd box? I'm running about 5.5 inches of lift.
85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
Superlift part # 110478 k5 said:
78 k5
1/2 ton status
thanx
