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bout ready to shoot myself!

FlatBlackBurb

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Mar 23, 2007
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Santa Cruz, CA
okay so i followed good instructions from a ck5 member who posted up about how to adjust the "minimum air" with a paperclip in the ALDL and then disconnect IAC and etc etc. idle got down to a great speed. really low. only problem was it went back up after i reconnected the IAC. no service soon lights came on or anything. no codes showed up either. can i just disconnect the IAC enough so that it looks like it's still in (if the smog nazis check for things like that) and try and smog it again. do i even need the IAC? i just want to get this thing to pass smog. I only have 7 more days to do it and im not too keen on the idea of paying huge fees to the DMV.

oh and i did check for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner and no matter where i sprayed, the idle stayed the same so i'm guessing its not that. maybe a vaccum leak to a sensor?

anyway im going to try and smog it again today and see what happens. wish me luck
 
Doesn't the minimum air paper cover the idle portion? I thought it was SUPPOSED to go back up some. IIRC your problem is quite high idle, but without a tach or scanner, pretty tough by ear to know if it's acceptable.

You sure your throttle isn't sticking or anything easy like that?
 
dyeager535 said:
Doesn't the minimum air paper cover the idle portion? I thought it was SUPPOSED to go back up some. IIRC your problem is quite high idle, but without a tach or scanner, pretty tough by ear to know if it's acceptable.

You sure your throttle isn't sticking or anything easy like that?

minumum air paper? well im used to the sound of the high idle. when i finished messing around with it, the idle had dropped considerably. i just need to get it down 100rpm that's all for it to do the smog test.
 
well anyways... the idle is down. its now idling at 1020 rpm. still high but it was able to test. turned out to be a "gross polluter" everything else passed. the mechanic who tested it told me that the reason it was emitting too many hydrocarbons was probably because of a misfire from the spark plugs. I have a new set that i'm going to stick in right now and see if it changes anything. if that's not it then its probably the cat i would guess... any advice? tips?
 
Needs to be in good tune...plugs, wires, check the cap and rotor to make sure they are in good shape.

Still something else going on to keep the idle high, depending on what it is, that is likely not helping your emissions either of course.
 
Good thing they have "dont pass dont pay" places, this is only like the 4th time or something its failed? Good luck with it mon
 
lochenjons said:
Good thing they have "dont pass dont pay" places, this is only like the 4th time or something its failed? Good luck with it mon

thanks mon. well it wasnt really a "dont pass dont pay" the guy was all cool about it tho. they charged $20 for a pretest and then they charge lkike $30 for a retest. im lazy to go back to watsonville for the test. he said if it still is emitting a bunch of hydrocarbons after the spark plugs, he would let me come back another time. i was supposed to pay $20 for the 3rd time that i smogged it but since it idled too high he was like "come back tomorrow"

well im going back tomorrow. hopefully the spark plugs did it (the old ones were black and had WAY too miuch of a gap like 60 or something)
 
FlatBlackBurb said:
thanks mon. well it wasnt really a "dont pass dont pay" the guy was all cool about it tho. they charged $20 for a pretest and then they charge lkike $30 for a retest. im lazy to go back to watsonville for the test. he said if it still is emitting a bunch of hydrocarbons after the spark plugs, he would let me come back another time. i was supposed to pay $20 for the 3rd time that i smogged it but since it idled too high he was like "come back tomorrow"

well im going back tomorrow. hopefully the spark plugs did it (the old ones were black and had WAY too miuch of a gap like 60 or something)
What then why didnt you take it to the REAL dont pass dont pay?
 
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